door frame rebate problem

E

ennisjim

Registered User
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155
Hi,

Having doors fitted at the moment and there is a problem. Door frames are deal with 48mm rebate. Doors are 42mm thick. Doors are flush with frame one side of door which has hinge, but this leaves a 6mm gap on the other side of the door when it is closed, ie. it does not pull up tight to the frame.

It doesn't look great. Sorry didn't manage to get a picture. Doors are oak and frames are deal and will be painted white/off-white.

I can't blame chippie for this I think. I chose the frames and had them fitted ages ago and I chose the doors. So I am looking for some ideas. I can think of a few but I'm not sure if they're going to work out...
1. Fit a 6mmX10mm strip into gap - hard to cut strip to side, hard to glue/fit and hide...
2. Fit one of those rubber seals (draught excluder?) - might not look so good, get grubby, tear over time
3. Fit an additional 'door stop' strip (eg. 80mmX10mm) on inside of frame - reduces overall width of opening, reduces space from frame to handle.

If anyone can understand this problem (sorry hard to explain without pictures) and has any additional suggestions I would be grateful...

Thanks
 
Had the same problem before.
Best to fit the small piece of wood into the gap use no more nails then paint over it.
 
Thanks SLF. That is what carpenter suggested. Can you remember how you did it ? Did you have to get strips made ?
 
I have a bench saw so cutting them was not a problem for me.

You could buy 6 mm MDF and cut it to 10mm lengths.

Or if you happen to be in Dublin somewhere I'd be happy to cut them for you.

You supply the materials of course.
 
Thanks very much for the offer SLF but I'm a long way from Dublin. I'll run this by the carpenter and see what he thinks.
 
Reposition the door on the hinges, if they are hung on standard butt hinges. This will give you the door recessed below the frame all the way around. Fitting an additional stop may cause problems with the door handle, as this stop reduces the clearence between the handle and frame by about 13 mm.Personally I would not mess around with slips or excluders.

sabre
 
I think it takes about an hour to get to Dublin from Ennis (at light speed anyway).

If you do this my way you won't see any slip line on the door frame.
Since you have a painter who's going to paint it anyway.

How many doors do you have?
 
If the doors are fitted as stated, and locks fitted as well, then the receiver plate will have to be moved to allow for the slip on the lock stile side. it does not make sense fitting slips , as it is quicker to re position the hinge on the door, and move it towards the frame rebate. Two minute job on each door with butt hinges fitted. Quickest option in my opinion.


sabre
 
Hi SLF. I've 19 doors and Ennis is about 3 hours from da big smoke. Thanks again for the offer of help.

Hi sabre, I'm not so sure about repositioning the hinges. Wouldn't this leave door recessed by 6mm on the other side and not flush with door frame ?
 
Yeah of course there are other reasons

I just don't happen to know any of them,

neither does anybody I know.
 
ennisjim said:
Hi SLF. I've 19 doors and Ennis is about 3 hours from da big smoke. Thanks again for the offer of help.

Hi sabre, I'm not so sure about repositioning the hinges. Wouldn't this leave door recessed by 6mm on the other side and not flush with door frame ?
Click to expand...

Repositioning the hinge side will position the whole door 5 mm below the frame surface. But presumably the lock side is already 5 mm below the frame surface , otherwise the door will rattle between the door face and frame rebate. Traditionally best practice for hanging doors was always to hang the door below the frame surface, this always gave a straight aesthetic line around the door frame, even if there was a slight misfitting of the door, or if the door twisted or warped slightly over time.

sabre
 
sabre said:
Repositioning the hinge side will position the whole door 5 mm below the frame surface. But presumably the lock side is already 5 mm below the frame surface , otherwise the door will rattle between the door face and frame rebate. Traditionally best practice for hanging doors was always to hang the door below the frame surface, this always gave a straight aesthetic line around the door frame, even if there was a slight misfitting of the door, or if the door twisted or warped slightly over time.

sabre
Click to expand...

Ennis
if you can't get those slips of wood to do it my clever way, then take the second best way.
 
Ah Sabre

I have done so much restoration of many different old doors and have had to match up new architrave with old. Most carpenters I know just scratch their heads and wonder how it is I manage to do such 'fecky' work.

I have worked on many restoration projects and have yet to have anybody call me an amateur.:eek:

If you had done as much thinking on this issue you'd know I am right about this.

I can recommend a good DIY book so you can start.:rolleyes:
 
Ah S.L.F.

Next you will be telling me your an expert joiner or something. If you are so skilled, why are you offering such a crap solution. If you had done more thinking , and less blowing your own trumpet now, you,d have realised that pinning slips of wood on new doorframes, is less thgan a professional option.;)

I,d recommend that you read your own diy books...I think you might not be finished with them. personally i dont need diy books.

sabre
 
No a cabinet maker and restorer and very good too and I do read DIY books from time to time because you never know what things you can pick up from them.
Of course I know there are things I don't know, obliviously not a problem for you, you probably know it all, don't you.
 
Now now boys and girls let's keep it friendly - LOL

have to say that I have tried both of these options on different projects and had success with both when done by a good chippie

If you can live with the rebate then that is best way - if not then get out the bench saw
 
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