underfloor heating problems

griffandco said:
Thanks for all tips re. dropped floors.
Think Yops reply of battens sounds like the answer to our prayers as we are putting down solid timber floors.
Few Q's re. Yop solution..
Was it solid timber & nailed to battens over concrete floor with UFH?
How long ago did you get it done?
Bit worried re. extra screed bonding to existing baseas Carpenter warned.
Any ideas as to what to pour here?
Builder suggests sand / cement mix.
How does this go with UFH
Click to expand...

We used a semi-solid with special underlay for the UFH (110 euro per roll I think)
Time wise, hard to gauge, you mean how long to put down the battens? Maybe 8 hours 2 of us.
We got standard sand cement mix from Roadstone for the whole house.

It works fine tbh, probably more warmth coming off these floors than the ones downstairs, but also the heat rising will aid to this.
 
i was wondering how long the floors were down and if u had any trouble re warping. Did you ever consider solid timber floors?
 
No problem with warping, the floors by the time I got to the flooring were down over 6 months, so well dried out!!
I was told that solid were not really recommended for UFH!! Don't know how true that is!
 
have researched till blue in the face ...no definitive answers but missus wants solid timber as she doesnt like the "fake" look of any of the semi/manufactured floors we saw so far!!
My fear is that they may look genuinely warped after a while.
 
We used a single 120mm oak engineered board, with v groove, and think it's as close looking to solid timber you will find, It's called Delta. And is a click flooring. pm'ing you a link to a photo
[broken link removed]
 
Yop.
I have just sent in planning for a 3500 sq ft house. Thinking of underfloor + geo. however I have not been in any house where it is. Is the system working ok for you. If so I would like further info etc etc. (will send you more details of the specifice).
On another note you used your own scaffolding for your build.
My plan was to buy my own use it and sell on.
However just found outthe it has to be erected and certified as ok to use.
Did you do this. ? will self build insurance cover it if you erect yourself.
just concerned. I do not want a problem whereby someone gets hurt and no cover etc etc.
 
Scaffolding must be erected and certified by a trained scaffolder.
Self build insurance will not cover self erect system.
Most contractors that you bring on site will not go up on or let their staff up on non certified scaffolding as their own insurance would not cover them on a "DIY" scaffolding.
Scaffolding certification is a 1 day course like a safe pass course .
Your best bet would be to buy the scaffolding and pay a certified scaffolder to erect and certify same for you. You just sell on the scaffolding when the project is complete.
 
Sparkey,
Thanks for info, however i think it is more than a 1 day course for scaffolding.
The reason I think that is bacause half the country would be certifing scaffolding if this was the case.
Can anyone confirm,
The other thing is that a certified scaffolder may charge a fortune for scaffolding certificate.
 
The scaffold management course is a 1 day course. A basic scaffolders course is longer, you are required to have on the job experience prior to the course. Both www.iosh.co.uk and www.hsa.ie are good resources for construction health and safety.
If you are buying scaffold and having a scaffolder erect it you may be able to get him to inspect the scaffold occasionally. Might work out cheaper than taking a day off work and paying for the course. Some builders may have also completed scaffold management course.
 
Hi All,

Just wondering what type of screed you guys used over UFH pipes?There are so many that my head is melting.

First time caller long time listener
 
Standard sand/cement screed, 75mm thick on 100mm of xtratherm insulation is what i've used.

btw. welcome to AAM:)
 
I was doing some homework and have come to a few conclusions..
sand and cement is old school and by all accounts leaves pockets between the pipes where heat can be lost.Also it seems s&c can crack and is just what builders use when they havent looked at the up to date products on the market.The drying time is at least three months...which is mad.
I intend on using the liquid type screed for UH.This can be flowed in on day one at between 40mm to 120mm and hard by day two,Dry in a month,no cracking.
If anyone needs advice on who to get this from let me know cos its taken me forever to get this info.

seeya
 
Stunning said:
I was doing some homework and have come to a few conclusions..
sand and cement is old school and by all accounts leaves pockets between the pipes where heat can be lost.Also it seems s&c can crack and is just what builders use when they havent looked at the up to date products on the market.The drying time is at least three months...which is mad.
I intend on using the liquid type screed for UH.This can be flowed in on day one at between 40mm to 120mm and hard by day two,Dry in a month,no cracking.
If anyone needs advice on who to get this from let me know cos its taken me forever to get this info.

seeya
Click to expand...

Have heard that the easi flow takes an age to dry throughly though due to the amount of water in it, therefore u have to wait longer to put down ur timber.
Don't know about this though.
 
Hi Stunning, why not just post the information here for everyone's benefit?
Leo
 
Ok Leo,

Company i used was called Screedtech and their numbers are 01 8357236 and mobiles 0868375782 & 0879471452.They are based in meath and kildare but do all over the country.The question on drying time is not true,the liquid type screed they use is a quick dryer and better than anything i have come across.They also do finishing compounds and dry screeds if that helps.

seeya
 
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