Problem with washing machine - drum not spinning

P

Protocol

Registered User
Messages
4,835
I wonder might anybody be able to advise on a fault with a Siemens iQ300 washing machine

The programme starts okay.

Water flows into the drum okay.

But the drum does not start to spin.

Water drains out okay.


We checked the filter, and cleared out the small build-up of material there.

Thanks
 
Had something like this recently with the washing machine at work.
Dismantled it as much as possible to see if I could get it spinning freely.
No success. I reckon a sock or something had got past the door seal and was stuck between the inner and outer drums.
The outer drum on this model was not splitable without total destruction of the outer drum. Only fixable by replacing the whole outer and inner drum assembly.
Which was nearly the price of a new washing machine.
 
Assuming the program is correct and there is not excess foam, this is what Siemens/BSH say:

"The drum belt is the connection between the motor and the drum, without which the drum would not turn. This belt can snap due to wear and tear, especially in older appliances which are used on a regular basis. To determine if this is the cause, switch off the washing machine, open the door and turn the drum by hand. If there is little to no resistance, this indicates a problem with the drum belt which requires a repair by a trained and qualified service engineer.


Another component which can be responsible for a washing machine drum not turning is the carbon brushes. If the drum is not turning when filled with water or during the spin cycle, this can indicate that the carbon brushes are worn out which requires a repair by a trained and qualified service engineer."
 
I have a Beko washing machine and sometimes when I wash large mats in it, the spin doesn't work as it detects and abnormal load, basically need to make it sit a bit more even in the machine and then the spin will kick in.
 
Thank you all.

I put my hand into the drum just there.

Using my hand, I can get the drum to move all the way around.

There is resistance. If I push the drum, it does not spin 360 degrees on its own.
 
Strange one. The drum should spin freely through 360 degrees in either direction when disconnected from power. Something is stuck/sticking.

*** Please, please, please do not stick your arm into a washing machine that is still plugged in.
 
Putting your arm into a washing machine which is plugged in is not a safety issue. There are switches on the controll panel which need to be operated before it can start. There is also an interlock on the door to prevent operation when the door is open.

It is normal procedure to load and unload the machine by putting your hand and arm into the drum.
 
Last edited:
If you give the drum a good flick you will hear a whirring noise if the motor is turning.

If you hear this the drive belt is okay.

You are then maybe looking at a faulty motor or start capacitor.
If motor brushes or start capacitor is the problem the parts cost would be reasonable. If the motor needs replacement you would be better off scrapping the machine.

Either way the labour charge will probably make repair uneconomical.

If you are getting a replacement, consider a cheap machine e.g. Beko. I am competent in repairing washing machines but in recent cases the machines are uneconomical to repair due to very expensive parts costs.
 
Last edited:
I just checked ours (which is working fine). When turned off (unplugged or not) it rotates quite freely for about one 360 cycle when given a good manual spin. It does not keep spinning.
 
Last edited:
If resistance, it could be the rubber seal "balloon" into which the drum spins is perished. You might notice little bits of rubber in your wash lately?
 
The belt might be snapped. I had this problem on a tumble dryer and I took a chance on buying a replacement which cost about €25 in clondalkin. Had to take the side panels off the machine but managed to replace it thanks to the marvels of you-tube videos. I should point out that I'm next to useless at DIY and managed to do it. If it is the belt you should be able to see the broken one sitting in body of the machine if you can manage to open it. Might be worth while seeing if you can find a repair video on you tube for that model and see if it looks doable
 
S class said:
Either way the labour charge will probably make repair uneconomical.

If you are getting a replacement, consider a cheap machine e.g. Beko. I am competent in repairing machine machines but in recent cases the machines are uneconomical to repair due to very expensive parts costs.
Click to expand...
That's what I do now, just buy a cheap machine and depending on the problem would often just buy new when it breaks. My last cheap machine gave no problems for 5 years and died recently. I bought a replacement for €300.
10 year parts warranties offered by some might appear attractive but only when you register are you told about the minimum €145 call out charge.
 
I don't think all warranties are equal. You need to check terms and conditions.

I don't know about now but Whirlpool 10 year warranties used to have costly call-out/labour charges. Siemens often offer 5 year all-in parts and labour warranties on promotions - including on washing machines. Apart from a few bells and whistles it is what might justify the extra cost compared to their Bosch equivalents with the same innards.
 
No harm in isolating any electrical device before doing anything with it, just in case... If the plug/socket isn't easily accessible then you can probably isolate it at the fuse box (e.g. kitchen sockets breaker).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top