Need a kitchen (but not DIY)

well, it's got far too personnel for me.

I don't understand your point of my knowledge coming from books.. were you born with yours? Do you insist on making your own mistakes in order to learn or would you be prepared to accept knowledge handed down from acknowledged experts?

How can you be so sure of my motivations in offering advice? I offer advice on kitchens and woodwork in general as it is my area of expertise, and I have many reference books that I can check facts in, that the original posters may not have access to. I also post on many other queries... are your motivations different to mine?, you are altruistic whereas I'm not, this seems like a double standard.

Just to support what I said about poplar being as physically soft as pine I have some stats.. from the book 'World Wood in Colour' by William Lincoln.

Douglas Fir (a species of pine) is described as having high stiffness and crushing strength, and medium resistance to shock loads. It has a specific gravity of .53 (i.e 530KG / m3)

Poplar (one type, Liriodendron tulipifera, family, magnoliaceae), is described as having low stiffness, medium crushing strength, and low resistance to shock loads.. it has a specific gravity of .51 (i.e 510KG/m3.. lighter than Douglas Fir)

So poplar (not popular), also called Tulipwood seems to be softer and more prone to denting than at least one species of pine. However there are many species of both types of wood and timber merchants may call something poplar when it's not.. the same as pine.. so nothing is definitive. But you did criticise pine as being soft and prone to denting, then you suggested poplar as an alternative, despite the fact that it may be physically softer. Poplar also has low to medium movement in service.. so it can warp, as can all woods.. possibly not as much as pine but to say 'popular (sic) wood does not warp' is factually incorrect.

Prices vary from person to person.. I believe that a properly painted kitchen takes time and the paint itself in expensive.. when using expensive specialist products, and expensive Farrow and Ball topcoats it can work out more expensive than a cheap sprayed finish.

You have made several personal attacks on me, I don't appreciate it.. you seem to think your 'facts' are self evident and don't require any evidence, this isn't the case. You say I shouldn't tackle 'true professionals', so are you saying I'm not one, despite the fact I run a business... I think you need to realise that my criticism isn't aimed at you personnally, it's aimed at your comments which I believe are factually wrong in some cases.. if you think I'm wrong then you provide the supporting evidence for what you say, rather than relying on personnal attacks to sound impressive.. for example, do you still think that poplar is harder than pine?, if so please state your source.

Cheers
Joe
 
Woodale, do not question another poster's professionalism. If you disagree with anything they say, by all means state your case, but questioning their motives and the validity of their advice without supporting your claim is tantamount to a personalised attack and will not be .
Leo
 
Need a decent fitted kitchen for a new build. One thing I want to avoid is te ieitating plastic strips that are ironed on to the side and which invariaby peel off after a short period.

Am willing to spend a good few bob on a high standard model.

Anyone any recomendations of suppliers in Dublin?

Thanks

Hi Magoo, I would be interested to know who you chose in the end back in 2005 and were you happy with the. I am trying to decide on a kitchen myself and finding it tough going.
 
Just retro fitted a fairly flimsy b&Q kitchen with doors & hinges & new oak counter top/spalsh back from Ikea, have to say the stuff from Ikea is top rate, didnt cost the earth either, have a look at their uk site, wait till July or trip to belfast, most of the sub 15K kitchens in the south are pretty samey, I think.
 
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