How to remove fireplace surround

I have gotten to the stage where the complete fireback and supporting bricks have been cleared out. When I get back to it on monday, will be fitting gyproc fireline plasterboard to each of the two sides and the back - flush against chimney walls. The plan is to then skim over board and paint. Is there anything special required to join the side boards to the back plasterboard? Want to try and avoid a scenario where skim cracks along the join a couple of months down the road..

Also, with regard to the paint, will I get away with regular paint as have read somewhere that some people have used special paints that will deal better with the heat. (hoping regular paint will work as don't want the hassle of trying to match paints up or introducing yet anothe colour in the room).
 
I'm very interested in your thread bogota400, as I'm just starting a similar job myself. I considered using plasterboard to line my fireplace recess but I've decided to uses a sand/ cement render and skim it instead- I'd be a little worried about the adverse effect that the heat would have on plasterboard (plasterboard is fire resistant but as you suggest, joints might crack). Can I ask you, are you relining your flue? It's been suggested to me that I should to avoid problems with condensate and poor draw. Also, how to you plan to clean your flue once the stove is installed and operating? I've been told it's either rod from the top down or fit a soot door (don't like that option).
 
Carpenter said:
I considered using plasterboard to line my fireplace recess but I've decided to uses a sand/ cement render and skim it instead- I'd be a little worried about the adverse effect that the heat would have on plasterboard (plasterboard is fire resistant but as you suggest, joints might crack).
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Have just collected a sheet of fireline so no going back now! The Oisin is the smallest stove around so should be alright.

Carpenter said:
Can I ask you, are you relining your flue? It's been suggested to me that I should to avoid problems with condensate and poor draw.
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Thats the first I heard of it - and I have exactly same scenario as you ie. 8" chimney flue and 5" Oisin flue opening.
I did contact a company in england and they said they could make something up to suit if I sent them on a sketch (fluesystems.com). Having to install a liner all the way through would make it so much more expensive. In fact, I might not have bothered if I thought this was required.

Carpenter said:
Also, how to you plan to clean your flue once the stove is installed and operating? I've been told it's either rod from the top down or fit a soot door (don't like that option).
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Not 100% sure on this yet. If it works out that I can get a straight pipe up - then I would probably be happy enough to do without the soot door. If its not going to be straight (and i think it might have to have a slight change of angle) then as far as i'm aware, a soot door would be required.

Will know more once I get to that stage. Approaching this at a snails pace - just have to get plasterboard up and skimmed first.
 
I contacted the merchant who sold me the stove and he's adamant that a flexible liner is not required, in his own words: "we sell hundreds of these and the flues are never lined, unless it's an old cottage...". I'll go with this for the moment I think, I can always retrofit a liner down the road if the stove gives problems. The cost of the liner would nearly amount to the cost of the stove (and that doesn't include labour). I'm picking up some sand tomorrow for my render coat.
 
Hi lads just saw this thread and am in this field anyway. Chimneys generally dont need to be relined unless the liner or joint inside has broken down and you are experiancing smoke into other areas of the house. What is more important is the connection from 5" off the stove to your existing 8" liner ( the orange clay pot) you can buy an adapter that has a sloped edge allowing ash and soot to fall back down and not collect in the flue which could start a chomney fire years down the road. also try using fire cement rather than high temp sealant. lastly and sorry i didnt see the thread earlier buy a convecting insert stove instead. these recess into the opening leaving you with just a door looking out but need to be fitted into a sqauare granite insert rather than a cast iron insert so that they fit flush to the insert. Also bogota not sure if your original f/p was gas or solid fuel but the cast iron part should have had 2-3" of a lightweight mix on the back of it by rights.
 
fmc said:
What is more important is the connection from 5" off the stove to your existing 8" liner ( the orange clay pot) you can buy an adapter that has a sloped edge allowing ash and soot to fall back down and not collect in the flue which could start a chomney fire years down the road.
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Off the top of your head fmc, do you know who supplies these?

fmc said:
Also bogota not sure if your original f/p was gas or solid fuel but the cast iron part should have had 2-3" of a lightweight mix on the back of it by rights.
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Its solid fuel. And yes, there was some mix on the back of it when I took it off - but only a dab each side. I take it this is so that it doesnt get too hot?

I like the idea of using an insert stove as you suggested but too late for me as have already bought Stanley Óisin. However, as cost is very much a factor, I'm just as well pleased. If I can manage to complete install myself (the diy novice that I am), I think I will have made a big improvement for small money.
From the outset, someone advised me that using cast iron insert in combination with solid fuel stove was a non starter and that I would have to replace with granite. Whats your take on this? (The insert would only just clear the top of the stove IF I was to use it).
 
The adapter should be available from a stove shop we get ours from Mi flues they retail at about 90E inc vat. There should be no problem in theory using a cast insert as long as its sealed againest the wall and the top of the rear flue doesn't hit the insert from the back. The mix on the back should have been about 2.5" thick all round it but its less important if you are connecting the stove to chimney liner but if I was doing it for a customer we would still have it filled. Bear in mind there will be a lot of heat from the top of the stove hitting your wooden surround so keep an eye on it.
You will lose a certain amount of heat from having the stove recessed in any case, do you think it will be fully recessed or half in half out?
The stove can be cleaned from the top down ideally, any door in the flue may be too small to get a rod up. Also if you can remove the baffle plate inside the stove you may be able to access the flue that way if you are exiting the top of the stove. if you are exiting the rear of the stove ensure all flue pipe is well connected as a cleaning head/rod migh push it apart a bit.
 
bogota400, how are you getting with this? I have thought of doing the same myself and having an electric fire built into the wall with no mantelpiece etc. What are you doing with the fireplace hearth?

Can anyone tell me if these are easy to remove?
 
Nc usually pretty easy to remove just heavy electric fires usually are for effect only giving a max of 2 kw of heat ensure you block up the flue if going down this road so you dont continue losing heat up it.
 
I have installed a new fire and it is fine except that it just cuts out after a few hrs, then works again the next day

Any ideas?
 
jaysspot said:
I have installed a new fire and it is fine except that it just cuts out after a few hrs, then works again the next day

Any ideas?
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Please don't hijack threads, post this question as a new thread. You will get a better response that way.
Leo
 
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