Heating Headache New Build


If MHRV is that mechanical heat retrieval something or other then surely thats an expensive solution to opening a window. Surely a high tech answer to a low tech problem.
 
sfag said:
Yeah I know all that.
But the basics are house size, room tempature and maybe year built as these will confirm to regulation insualtion standards (60 mil hd 3 years ago).
Thats a good enought yardstick to start comparing against.
Click to expand...

no... id never suggest installing a geothermal heatpumped UFH system in a build that built at minimum building regs standards....

unfortunately both salespersons and plumbers out there really push this.... and many many people get caught...
 
sfag said:
If MHRV is that mechanical heat retrieval something or other then surely thats an expensive solution to opening a window. Surely a high tech answer to a low tech problem.
Click to expand...


no its not...

firstly MHRS is not a substitute to opening a window.... its a substitute to your hole in the wall vents.. these vents do not recover any heat they loose...

when do you need to open windows... when its too hot!!
 
sfag,

It is mechanical heat recovery ventilation.It is an electrical fan based system that changes the air in your rooms thru a ducting system with reduced energy loss than opening your windows.

Personally I dont have it.Like yourself we have wall vents.We open the windows when required but not when the heating is on.The new ''green technologies'' like MHRV I agree with in principal but their costs are yet yo be justified.
 

Finally, after reading this I feel that I am beginning to understand more about central heating systems. Although this comment looks like common sense, I would imagine that this is exactly what people don’t realize when they sign up for a GeoThermal system.


It seems that central heating systems and house construction/insulation go hand in hand and it is pointless talking about one without talking about the other, and that some heating systems work better than others depending on the construction of your house. So when a salesman is telling you that the payback for your system is going to be around X yrs, is he talking rubbish unless he has taken into account the construction of your house???


What do you think are the minimum recommended building standards if you want to use GeoThermal?
 

I am with you on that statement that I am beginning to have a better grasp.

I do now have another dilemma if you insulate your home and build to a A standard home then Geo will be in line with the salesmen estimates on running costs. So then surely if you had a cheap oil solution in place that would be much lower than average usage for oil or gas?

I would be interested in seeing a comparison or report between identical built homes running on various heat sources e.g Geo, oil, gas air to water etc. I would be interesting to have a grasp on real running costs and payback time for installation.

I am still leaning towards oil at the moment and to run that for 10 years or so. By then all this renewable heating will be norm and prices should reflect that. I will invest in solar and have priced up a nice system with 10.2 m2 panels 500l tank that should reduce my oil consumption. I will also invest in a stove with a HRV vent above it so that should circulate some warm air around the home.
 
i think people should forget about PAY BACK TIME if you want what ever kind of system you want just buy it but if you cant afford it...forget about it
 
tick tock said:
i think people should forget about PAY BACK TIME if you want what ever kind of system you want just buy it but if you cant afford it...forget about it
Click to expand...

Pay back time and being able to afford it is not my main issue. Over inflated prices and actual performance of the system is my concern.
 

krissovo and showandgo.....

The heating system you put into your house should match the heating energy demand you will have...
Ill give you two examples...

Say a house rated C2 in a BER assessment (this would be typical minimum standards)..... The energy demand would be in the region of 175kWh/m2/yr

A certified passive house has an energy demand of less than 15kWh/m2/yr

Therefore the C2 house would need a boiler that produces in the region of 30kW (typically)... be it oil gas woood etc....

The passive house however, in reality needs a tiny boiler in comparions for backup use on very cold days.. these can be heat pumps or electrical elements as low as 1.5 - 1.8 kW..... see the difference!!!!

The more you reduce your energy demand, the less of output of a heating system you need.....

As you can see, the lowest 'energy demand' houses can be heated by electricity... this would be unthinkable in a 'minimum standard' house....

so my advise is always to:
1. design the dwelling to get maximum gains from solar energy
2. design the construction to minimise thermal 'cold' bridges
3. insulate the hell out if it
4. ensure maximum airtightness
5. ensure maximum control over the heating system..


once this is done the output capacity of your heating system is greatly reduced....
definitely negating the need for large expensive systems...
 
Hi Damienfitzp

There are a few types of heatpump some will only heat your ufh and bring your domestic water to a low temp which then has to be heated to a useable temp with an immersion.
Other heatpumps have built in cylinders and can heat your house and all you domestic hot water needs no problem.
You can also heat a buffer tank which is a store of water which is used to go to your ufh. You can also attach solar and a stove to this tank. The stove would want to be able to be operated on a sealed heating system. This tank also provides your domestic hot water.

There is a company es therm that can offer some soloutions
 
krissovo said:
Now that looks more like it, how did it perform during the recent cold spells?

Would you mind PM'ing the company?
Click to expand...

It performed very well during the cold snap. The company is Nutherm and they installed an AERMAC 10.3 kw heat pump. We have put in lots of insulation into the house and only have one north facing window. It really makes a difference on sunny days when the heat pump only comes on for the hot water.
 

Preference, I understand, fair enough.

The reasons for creaking are poor installation, usually, not the fact that it's timber. Or poor quality timber, possibly.

I know our airtightness in our houses is better than concrete as standard, as conc houses have a very poor roof/wall junction to deal with. Fire ? All houses, irrespective of material, must meet the same standards. Our timber based party wall has been tested to 94 minutes.......which is 50% in excess of Building Regulations.......and it's quieter than a concrete house, too. Solidity comes as standard.

The point I'm making is that the issues are down to quality of design and installation, rather than 'it's timber/concrete/whatever'. There is no shortage of poorly built concrete houses either, as we know.

Done well, any system can meet and exceed your expectations.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Menu
Log in
Register