....The imersion will take much longer to heat even a sinkful of water, usually about 2 hours....
According to a friend of mine at the ESB, the chances of the meter being broken are pretty low. Unfortunately it is far more likely to be due to some recent change in behaviour.
Recently we acquired an Electrisave monitor ([broken link removed]) which we have found to be wonderful in identifying when we have left something on (e.g. an immersion). When we first installed it a few months ago, we found that some member of our very forgetful family had almost always left something big switched on and the reading was regularily running at over 50 cents per hour.
Now that we have the information, we can instantly do something to switch it off.
Ronnie Kav
On which meter - night or day? Normally the boost simple opens a vent to release more heat stored in the storage heater bricks and, as such, does not use any electricity at the time (they are heated up at night on the night rate). Are you sure that the boost is not a convection heater running off peak rate units? What make and model are the storage heaters? Are you sure that your storage heaters and immersion are actually running off night rate units and not peak units.It turns out that the storage heaters are to blame. The meter wheel spins around at an extremely fast rate when only the storage heaters/boosters are on
But you originally said "no combi storage heaters" which I assumed meant storage only with no combined convection. Which is it?Yes, I mean by the boost the convection heater.
3 no combi storage heaters on the ground floor (2no. 3.4kW, the other is 1.7kW), and the rest being electric panel heaters.
The convection heater built into a storage heater will run off whatever meter is active - this means the night meter between 2300-0800 winter and 0000-0900 summer (or something like that) or the day/peak rate meter if switched on any other time. You really want to minimise the use of the convection heaters if at all possible by adjusting the storage heating so that it supplies the bulk if not all of the background heating required. If you use the convection heater part of the storage heaters and/or the panel heaters on peak rate then that will certainly rack up the costs. If your night rate billing is high then are you sure that the storage heater thermostats are adjusted so that they are not using too much electricity; your immersion is only coming on c. 0400-0800 or 0500-0900 and its thermostat is correct etc. It certainly sounds like something is wrong. Unless it's simply a case of the heating system being insufficient for the living space and thus burning units at a crazy rate or something?Both the convector (as I recall) and the storage heater (definitely) run off the night rate meter.
But you originally said "no combi storage heaters" which I assumed meant storage only with no combined convection. Which is it?
If your night rate billing is high then are you sure that the storage heater thermostats are adjusted so that they are not using too much electricity. It certainly sounds like something is wrong.
There should be a master thermostat which, along with the input dial, regulates the charging overnight. You might need to check that the night meter is kicking in at the correct time just in case your storage heaters are somehow charging on peak rate units. There should also be room themostats which control how the storage heater boost output (NOT the convection heater part) operates. The convection heaters should have their own built-in thermostats which control the duty cycle while switched on.So is it the thermostat that regulates the electrical consumption, assuming all else is satisfactory?
I rarely use the convector, yet my bill is much higher than that!There is definitely something wrong with your storage heaters I think. I have 2 storage heaters, one combi. 1 is on most days, the other is only on very cold nights. They definitely run off the night rate. 1 panel heater on for a hour or so at night. I do use the convector on the combi a good bit.My highest bill has been €150. Yours is deffo too high!!
That is incorrect. The dimensions of a storage heater have no bearing on the kW rating. What matters are the specifications of the specific make and model used. I'll check ours again later and point you at my 10 year summary spreadsheet (which may be linked earlier but needs to be updated) in case that is of any use to you in terms of gauging indicative costs.What is the size (kW) of your storage heater? That makes a massive difference. You can find out by way of the dimensions.
That is incorrect. The dimensions of a storage heater have no bearing on the kW rating. What matters are the specifications of the specific make and model used.
Not sure what you mean but in general the kW rating and the physical size of a storage heater are not directly related. What matters is the rating of the element(s) inside. You could have a large heater with a lower kW rating that a smaller one. And you were answering another poster without any obvious indication that they necessarily had the same make of storage heater as you.The website reference I gave earlier appears to equate the size with the electrical load. See the following: [broken link removed]
I was referring to the master storage heating thermostat which is often in the hall and which controls overnight charging of the heaters. Then each room with a storage heater will have its own thermostat for the storage heater boost. The heater itself may then contain a thermostat controlling the convection part. ESB have information about common storage heater setups using these thermostats.Is the master thermostat you speak of located within the heater itself?
Maybe he was referring to a thermostat and maybe this is where your master night charging thermostat lives. I don't know.The electrician who was out today replacing the immersion had a look at the fuse board and said there is a stat (devi-stat?) in the fuseboard amongst the breakers for the storage heaters, which I am told is very unusual. Is this a master thermostat?
Yes. But you need to see if this is the case.If the night meter is not kicking in at the correct time, isn't the ESB responsible for that?
Normally but maybe you should get the ESB out to check your meters in case there is some fault? Your bill seems crazy to me.the night-time meter wheel certainly operates at the correct time, but is the meter-wheel to be believed?
I've updated that spreadsheet (ignore the glitches such as if the € symbol does not display).That is incorrect. The dimensions of a storage heater have no bearing on the kW rating. What matters are the specifications of the specific make and model used. I'll check ours again later and point you at my 10 year summary spreadsheet (which may be linked earlier but needs to be updated) in case that is of any use to you in terms of gauging indicative costs.
Update: here you go. I think our two heaters have two 750W storage elements each so are 1.5kW rated.