About to insulate attic - anything I'm missing?

Isn't also recommended to leave it longer than necessary at the edges/eaves and fold it back onto itself?
 
I haven't heard about folding it back but it should cover the ring beam for sure. I'm not sure about the product that MAJJ is going to use, as far as I remember my last visit to B&Q the Knauf product MAJJ is talking about comes in triangular mats. It is usually used between the roof beams where it would be stucked against each other like wedges and so holds itself in position without the need for further fixings like staples for example.These wedges are slightly more expensive than the rolls but are cheaper than the rolls "wrapped and packed" in plastic foil. For laying insulation the fixing of it is no issue, so the cheaper product would be o.k. in insulation terms. This could be indeed folded back. But the wedges are triangular and so a folding would always leave an uncovered piece , well, an only once-covered piece so to say since the folding of a triangle will never match the surface unless we're assuming a 90 degrees angle. Which the glass wool triangles aren't. And they are quiet thick and heavy, some are treated with a resorcin based resin to give them a more sprungy/stiff texture.These would be awkward to fold and to be hold in place.
 
ClubMan said:
Isn't also recommended to leave it longer than necessary at the edges/eaves and fold it back onto itself?
Click to expand...
I should also have said that you must take care not to obstruct any eave vents with the insulation material as the attic needs ventilation. Those are two tips that I remember hearing somewhere (most likely from the da) but I am open to correction on them...
 
Hi All,

Do you folks sleep? But really, thanks again. Sorry I would have checked in on the discussion last night but I have no connectivity yet.

The comments on thermal bridging, eaves/ventilation are detailed in this document [broken link removed]

The product I have purchased is [broken link removed]

These are rolls that are perforated to cut either in 1/2 or 1/3.

I am thinking of buying more this time 100mm splitting it in two to reach my desired width and using this for in between the joists and going over this at right angles with the 170mm giving me a total of 270mm - would that be sufficient. I will try and get an answer externally and post it back up as this is key to whole approach.

BTW - I have that answer I think this one post will be like a FAQ on the topic.

Thanks,
MAJJ
 
Hi,

Tackled this job myself a few years back and can offer..

Lid - I used 4" polywhatsis, just put it on top on tank, it sticks a foot out all around, end of story

Light, put in TWO lights as the attic is high on the shadow factor and you do not want to lose your footing, so a bulb at either end of the attic to avoid the shadows as much as possible

Laying the insulation - didn't bother taking up old stuff, put on ole clothes and simply threw them out when finished because the glass fibre gets everywhere

Tip, cut a large square bit of timer to avoid balancing on the joists, easy to pick up and move around with you, also dont insulate near the eaves, and to finish rolling the insulation I used a kitchen brush to reach into the ever narrowing space as the roof meets the eave.
Cut the insulation in the attic itself.

Top quality eye/mouth face protection required.
 
Sorry to cut in but do you need to have a lid on top of your water tank in the attic?? I know I don't have one on mine.
 
I don't think it's absolutely necessary but it just keeps dust and other minor debris out of the tank - especially if you are moving stuff around in the attic regularly.
 
No problem Ribena - I had the misfortune of living in a house where a rat was in the attic and we had no lid on the tank. Both problems were resolved by the owner. But my concern was, apart from the rat itself, was a danger of contracting weils disease or something else from the water tank becoming contaminated. Not sure if that concern was/is valid.

Another point someone from AAM made was - by insulating around the tank and placing a lid, the water temperature will be higher and hence doesn't require as much energy to warm it.

Cheers,
MAJJ
 
Thanks MAJJ. The very mention of that furry animal makes me squirm. I think I will put a lid on my tank after all! Thanks for the advice on the insulation also.
 
ribena said:
Sorry to cut in but do you need to have a lid on top of your water tank in the attic?? I know I don't have one on mine.
Click to expand...

It's an absolute necessity to have a loose (not airtight) cover or lid on your cold water storage tank (cistern). New regulations and byelaws require it by law- older properties often had tanks fitted without lids but all new tanks now come complete with covers. If you ever have to drain down an older tank and plumbing installation you'll see why: flies and other insects invariably migrate into the attic, via ventilation points and will end up in an uncovered tank. During the warmer months the water can get quite warm in the tank- so these two factors combined can obviously be unpleasant if not dangerous to human health- which is why you should never drink water from the bathroom sink! This problem is exacerbated in houses with very large storage tanks or where the house is occupied intermittently as the water can remain stagnant in the tank when water is not being drawn off regularly. Which is why holiday home owners and the like should drain of their tank when the property is unoccupied.
 
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