Dry Lining Walls - Best method?

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dj01

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I'm soon going to be insulating our new build, and want to dry line the inner side of the external walls downstairs. I'm trying to find out what the best way to do this is. I will be using 'warmboard' - platerboard with an insulation board all in one, for the dry lining.

I know these can be fixed directly to the block walls with a special mushroom fixing, but I'm wondering does any gap need to be left between the wall and the insulation to allow for air circulation? I don't really want to leave a gap unless it's really necessary as it's eating into room space.

thanks,
dj
 
dj01 said:
I'm soon going to be insulating our new build, and want to dry line the inner side of the external walls downstairs. I'm trying to find out what the best way to do this is. I will be using 'warmboard' - platerboard with an insulation board all in one, for the dry lining.

I know these can be fixed directly to the block walls with a special mushroom fixing, but I'm wondering does any gap need to be left between the wall and the insulation to allow for air circulation? I don't really want to leave a gap unless it's really necessary as it's eating into room space.

thanks,
dj
Click to expand...

Your right you could fix directly to the blockwork or you could batten out the wall and fix to that, or even a double batten (reduce termal bridging), but I think that the additional cost is unnessary.

Joejoe
 
Sorry to jump in, but I've a related question: is there any dylining-type product suitable for fixing to the inside of a finished (i.e. already boarded, in fact it's even painted) wall? i.e. something you can just screw on top of your wall.

If so, do you need to leave a gap/use battens?

Basically there are a couple of spots in the house where a bit of extra insulation wouldn't go amiss - a stud wall between the livingroom and porch, for example. Any other advice/suggestions? Thanks.
 
dj01,
I am currently dry lining the external walls of my new build using 37.5mm insulated boards (Kingspan). Easiest way to fix then is using bonding compound (gypsum). It is a fairly quick process and much easier than I expected. Do NOT allow air to circulate behind the boards as this can cause condensation and mould problems behind the boards. Allow for a 10mm gap for adhesive. Seal the perimeter of the boards in particular the bottom with the compound. As far as I know it will bond to existing finished walls..

Boards are 40Euro each (8x4) and compound is 6euro/bag (1bag=2 boards).
 
Thanks Boyler, that's helpful. When you say,

Boyler said:
dj01,
. Seal the perimeter of the boards in particular the bottom with the compound. quote]

do you mean seal the back of the bottom area against the wall, or the frame piece actually touching the floor? Preume the edge of the board coming into contact with the floor?

thanks
dj
Click to expand...
 
Not really,

You run a continuous line of compound (on the wall) about 2-3in above the floor. This will also help when fixing the skirting. The boards should be kept up abouy 10mm from the floor. Just use a piece of standard 12mm plasterboard as a spacer. This is to avoid moisture from the floor, etc soaking into the boards...Run a bead of expaning foam along the gap.
 
What way did you work it when fitting it around window returns and corners etc, did you just cut it flush with the return on the wall?

thanks

Boyler said:
dj01,
I am currently dry lining the external walls of my new build using 37.5mm insulated boards (Kingspan). Easiest way to fix then is using bonding compound (gypsum). It is a fairly quick process and much easier than I expected. Do NOT allow air to circulate behind the boards as this can cause condensation and mould problems behind the boards. Allow for a 10mm gap for adhesive. Seal the perimeter of the boards in particular the bottom with the compound. As far as I know it will bond to existing finished walls..

Boards are 40Euro each (8x4) and compound is 6euro/bag (1bag=2 boards).
Click to expand...
 
Allow the boards to run at least 60m past the sides of the window/door reveals. Then cut the insulation back flush with the opening and fit the ins. plasterboard to the reveal. Then cut off the excess plasterboard.. Do the top first and then the sides (after fitting the window boards).
 
I didn't think you'd fit insulation to the reveals because this would cover part of the internal window frames? Would you not run it up to the reveals, cut it flush and then just standard 12.5 plasterboard on the reveals themselves?
 
Can do but if you can insulate then it would be better..

My external walls are a little different than standard (8''stone-1''cavity-4''block-4''cavity with insulation-4''block-2''dry lining) giving a deep reveal (300mm).The window frames are also quite wide(90mm) and the openings are quite big. By insulating the reveal it should also help to reduce any thermal bridging around the window/outer block.
 
yeah, suppose it depends on the dept of the reveals and the frames, agree that it would help reduce any thermal bridging.

thanks for the advice and best of luck with the rest of the build!
 
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