Best Concrete Floor Finish

dunvale

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16
Hi there,
Shortly I'll be pouring the floor of a Garage/Workshop Im building,floor area will be 17'x19'. Im eager to get a perfectly smooth finish so I can paint the floor later, Obviously because of the small area it does not merit getting someone in to power-float it, Im not an expert but I have a little experience pouring stable floors,obviously these were not to the finish Im trying to achieve,they were just tamped and screeded.
Anyway,is there someone who might be more experienced at this who might advise me on what procedure to carry out and what tools i'll need ie. trowles,floats etc. Also any useful websites that might be helpful.
Thanks!
 
Thats an interesting product, but suited to a totally different application,more commercial based where time is the issue and the builders need floors to cure fast. Besides its only suited to applications where the floor thickness is a max of 50mm, my floor will have to be about 180mm! thank for the suggestion.
 
yes, but it can be applied a a screed over a concrete slab....

my only suggestion would be to pour a 130mm concrete slab (aggregate <20mm) and pour a 50mm wetter smoother screed (aggregate <5mm) over, and tamp and smooth..
 
Well thats not a bad suggestion,it would be a bit of extra work but I would achieve the finish I desire..do you think I would maintain the surface strength in the concrete if I did it this way. Remember its a workshop floor so it wll take abuse from time to time...
 
yes, but it can be applied a a screed over a concrete slab....

my only suggestion would be to pour a 130mm concrete slab (aggregate <20mm) and pour a 50mm wetter smoother screed (aggregate <5mm) over, and tamp and smooth..

if you know how to use a hand screed and had the finishind tools like a bull float, walking trowel and hire a power float or a helicopter to get a nice flat almost burnt finish then you will have a floor level and nearly as polished as can be.
Two pours seems a bit much when the same result can be done in one, and tamping!?! if you want something that is going to be as smooth as a cattle stop grate then by all means tamp away
 
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if you know how to use a hand screed and had the finishind tools like a bull float, walking trowel and hire a power float or a helicopter to get a nice flat almost burnt finish then you will have a floor level and nearly as polished as can be.
Two pours seems a bit much when the same result can be done in one, and tamping!?! if you want something that is going to be as smooth as a cattle stop grate then by all means tamp away

Ah well, when I mentioned tamping that was for a floor under horses and they need a grip under their bedding,obviously this will be tastier work,What kind of readymix should I be ordering off the likes of road stone for this application,also what do you mean by "burnt finish"? Haven't heard that phrase before.
 
burnt
when you have been one the concrete long enough but you want to be sure that you are filling up every gap when your troweling with your helicopter so much that it burns the concrete smooth and a dark colour
 
I vaguely remember doing larger areas by hand, (when we couldn't get a power float in) with a long float/trowel. Was about 2ft long and steel. Many moons ago.
 
I vaguely remember doing larger areas by hand, (when we couldn't get a power float in) with a long float/trowel. Was about 2ft long and steel. Many moons ago.

Your right and in some intances they are still used, for this application a powerfloat (helicopter) is the best bet and in one pour (if the floor is going to take abuse. The concrete sould be 25N10 or 35N10 no less
 
I've just got a 21'x13' workshop floor laid, poured by cement truck at 10am, and had a lad with a powerfloat there for most of the day after that getting the floor just right. It is now snooker-table smoothe, and level to-boot !
 
I've just got a 21'x13' workshop floor laid, poured by cement truck at 10am, and had a lad with a powerfloat there for most of the day after that getting the floor just right. It is now snooker-table smoothe, and level to-boot !

Sounds good,was the power float expensive to hire? what size was it,are they hard to operate?
 
Sounds good,was the power float expensive to hire? what size was it,are they hard to operate?

if you haven't been near one, now wouldn't be the best time to learn
it's like holding on to a sack full of raving mad pitbulls when it gets going
 
if you haven't been near one, now wouldn't be the best time to learn
it's like holding on to a sack full of raving mad pitbulls when it gets going

I like the picture you painted dble8

If some one is going to learn how to use a powerfloat it is better under supervision or on somebody elses floor;)
 
Thats certainly a very clear image you've painted,I can almost feel myself wrestling with the thing!Sounds like it does the trick though.
 
well holding on to them at the start is not the problem, it's when you doze off and daydream then let go is when they bite you in the ass, thats the problem
let go of that machine in full flight and it will bite you in the ass!
 
Thats certainly a very clear image you've painted,I can almost feel myself wrestling with the thing!Sounds like it does the trick though.

let us know what you decide on and how you get on?

Jaid
 
You wouldn't want to overdo it on the power float either as a super smooth (polished) finish will not take a subsequent floor paint too well and wear may be a problem. Super smooth concrete floors are easier to clean but loss of traction is a problem especially if you'll have fine dust (from woodworking machines) or water about- just something to consider.
 
let us know what you decide on and how you get on?

Jaid

Dont worry, I'll let ye know how it goes,it will be next week before anything happens,hopefully the results will be good!

I'll take your views into consideration Carpenter..Thanks.
 
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