Need help with fitting a mixer tap in kitchensink

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Petal

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Hello,

I'm in the process of installing a pull out hose mixer tap in the kitchen. It all seems fairly straight forward, the only obsticle I have is that I'm not sure about the water pressure. Depending on wheter there is a)low pressure hot water feed and high pressure cold water feed or B) gravity fed hot and cold water (blanced low pressure) or C)high pressure hot and cold feeds I need to use or not use an aerator or flow straightener and flow restrictors and non-return valves....
I'm in a council house in Drimnagh, and have watertank in the attic. The hot water comes from the hot water tank (which is upstairs) but I think that the cold water pipe in the kitchen runs off directly from the waterpipe coming into the house rather than from the watertank in the attic.

Anyone got any idea which scenario might apply?

Many thanks for all help.
 
Hi Petal, you're closer to scenario A above. I'm not too far away from you, so assume that the mains pressure there is the similar to mine. While the mains pressure cound not really be described as high pressure, it will certainly by higher than that from the tank fed hot.

I presume this will imply using a flow restrictor and non-return valve on the cold feed? If the restrictor is adjustable, then you should be able to use it to balance the presure of the hot and cold feeds to the tap.
Leo
 
Hi Leo,

Thanks (yet again!) for your help. I feared that this was the case... So, yes I need to connect not-return valves to the hot and cold inlets and a flow restrictor into the cold inlet. I also have to substitute the aerator with a flow straightener. Non of which is supplied, so I have to purchase all of this. I will have lots of fun getting all this!
 
Hi, we have fitted a tap with a second outlet for drinking water. With the previous tap we had good water pressure. With the new one, because of the smaller feed flexible pipes the pressure is way down. Is there any way we can do something to increase water flow? Can a bigger (1/2 inch I think ) be fitted instead of the 3/8 inch that is currently on? Hope this makes sense. Thanks Optimistic
 
Leo,

I've been thinking about this a bit more and I am wondering if I really need to fit the flow restrictor etc. As you said the water pressure isn't exactly enourmous and thinking about the difference between the hot and cold water flow I used to have with the old taps, I wouldn't say it was enourmous... I'm going to head into a plumbing suppliers anyway as I need to get flexible connectors and I'll see what they will advise as well...
 
No problem Petal,

Yeah, if the difference in pressure isn't significant, then you won't need the restrictor. Even if you do, you could use a simple [broken link removed] as the flow resrictor, the [broken link removed] or check valves are pretty straightforward too. Just a few extra joints to make. Both of these items are cheap and available from all plumbing supliers and most DIY shops.

I presume the aerator is in the tap outlet, before you go spend money on the flow straightener, you could just try it with and without the aerator.
Leo
 
Optimistic said:
Hi, we have fitted a tap with a second outlet for drinking water. With the previous tap we had good water pressure. With the new one, because of the smaller feed flexible pipes the pressure is way down. Is there any way we can do something to increase water flow? Can a bigger (1/2 inch I think ) be fitted instead of the 3/8 inch that is currently on? Hope this makes sense. Thanks Optimistic
Click to expand...

Hi Optimistic, there's a chance that the tap you have fitted was designed to work on a pressurised system. Perhaps check the instructions/packagin or ask where you purchased it. Are the fittings on the tab body 1/2" or 3/8"?
Leo
 
Hi Leo, yep, the guy in the plumbinb supplies said exactly the same about the service valve and I got the non return valves which look straightforward. I also got flexible connectors and the lot cost me 20 Euro and I left a happy camper. So this weekend will be taken up plumbing!
 
I imagine the non return (check) valves are required on the feeds because of the hose connection, which could otherwise result in contamination of the mains drinking water supply if the hose was left submerged in water and there was some back siphonage, drawing dirty water back into the mains water supply. Happy plumbing!
 
Folks,

I almost got there and then the project outgrew me.... I've got the sink in, the tap fitted and was ready to connect to the water. I got flexible connectors and the non-return valves and fittings that connect 14mm and 15mm pipes (the tap is made in the UK) and was ready to go. Then I realised that if I connect the tap-pipes to the flexible connector, the weight of the flexible hose would probably pull it down from the pipe, so unless there are flexible connectors that have 14 mm openings on one end and 5mm (estimate, the pipe is reduced twice) on the other (and directly fitting into the tap outlet), there is only a pipe to pipe connection possible. My pipes however are in such a ridiculous position that I would have to bend the pipes about three times to get there, and this is where I'm ready to call a plumber because I don't think I can do that...
Does anyone know if I can get such connectors or is there any other option I haven't thought of yet?
Many thanks for all your help....
 
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