1)
2) your house is block/cavity/block? if so pump the remaining cavity
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3. Is it not the case that the original idea of a cavity wall was to stop the transfer of damp etc. from outer wall to inner wall and by completely filling the cavity that one is actually facilitating this process?
where do you live, block/cavity/block full fill pump has iab certs for much of Ireland bar the extremes of the west coastIs this method proven beyond doubt to work?
yes thermal looping is an issue, but only improved by pumpingI have a 2000 built house that has 60mm polystyrene T&G sheets with toggle on walltie holding to inner wall. My issues with pumping remainder of cavity were
1. Not having been in the country when house was being built, what if some of the toggles weren't pushed back properly and the sheet is lying kina diagonally between the outer and inner leaf then the newly pumped bead would never reach this area.
many iab cert state 50mm is the min, i've specified it on 40mm cavity and seen follow up thermal analysis positive results2. Is it a fact that most of the machinery for pumping cavities are designed for pumping 100mm or 150mm and dont cope well with the 40mm that would be left to pump in many houses?
yes, but the beads dont allow water to pass across the cavity.3. Is it not the case that the original idea of a cavity wall was to stop the transfer of damp etc. from outer wall to inner wall and by completely filling the cavity that one is actually facilitating this process?
?in the cavity? polystyrene beads only. paper, fabric?/ are you having a laugh?4. Which of the various materials work best in this instance? bead, paper,
fabric?
Thanks lowCO2design,
1) we never use the downlighters as they light up the kitchen like a football pitch and have a main ceiling light in hall so hall downlighters never used either. Iv stuck bits of cellotape to the five switches that power these downlighters so they cant be turned on. As the downlighters wont be on, there is no risk of fire as no overheating. Iv sealed the tops of the pipes with tape (effect on first one was amazing when I put my hand under it in the kitchen) and am in the process of adding more rolls of insulation around the pipes.
2) We have decided not to pump the cavity as we have enough heat (not chilly except the sunroom which was why we shut it off till we more time to deal with it), just want make house more efficient ourselves.
3)Have emailed the company with sizes and waiting for a price, Ill update about the technical information.
4) Well we installed a double glass wooden framed doors with side panels and overhead glass panel. Its not airtight (breeze under two doors would freeze your toes if you stood in kitchen side too long) but it has done a fabulous job all the same.
5)Havent done anything about the sunroom yet but will get one windowboard removed to check if insulation in wall and also plan on cutting in timber ceiling to see state of rolls of insulation.
Anyone done similar improvements or any suggestions/thoughts appreciated.
prehaps if you dealt the AIR movement instead of adding insulation you'd get better results?Old school thought in this house also.
Did add 12 rolls insulation this eve and bit disappointed as had hoped the draught in the downlighters would be gone but still little bit left but much better than it was. Might be worth spending the €150 on the hoods if a better seal could be had....
- i dont except that, what if some other person turns on the lights? if you are taking that approach remove the down-lights!
- so you wont pump the cavity but were considering insulated slabs?
where do you live, block/cavity/block full fill pump has iab certs for much of Ireland bar the extremes of the west coast.
in the cavity? polystyrene beads only. paper, fabric?/ are you having a laugh?
you need an on-site assessment, I wish you the best of luck1. Yeah, live in the extreme NW where the west wind driven rain comes sideways at ye
it takes a week to do the course and become a BER assessor, I'd strongly recommend you seek advice from a professional arch / eng with knowledge of dew point calcs, air-tightness, thermal bridging, U-values etcgood BER Assessor
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