Thoughts on insulation to be applied in attic conversion

Coming late to this discussion: one comment/observation only and it relates to the attic/storage access doors.

I gather, through here-say only, that these doors will be problematic for both the air-test and the general BER process.

Keep warm
 
Hi again,

One other obvious but not to us question came up over the weekend - should we be insulating the party wall in the attic between ourselves and next door. Theory being that if they are not as well insulated as us the heat from our room will go through that wall?
 
Hi again,

One other obvious but not to us question came up over the weekend - should we be insulating the party wall in the attic between ourselves and next door. Theory being that if they are not as well insulated as us the heat from our room will go through that wall?

its up to you, but the theory is also that next door should be to the same temp as your room, therefore heat will not pass from warmer to colder.....
 
Thinking of doing my attic room eaves to ceiling with aerodorm by aerobord. Details on aerobord.ie [broken link removed]

Any opinions on using this all the way up from the eves and slabbing out with foilbacked plasterboard? I would also want to use the space behind the studwalls for storage.

At the moment there is 6" fibreglass covering the entire attic floor, except where the stairs will be.
 
Also have a look at the Rafterloc option offered by Xtratherm [broken link removed]
I've used both but ended up doing more with Rafterloc mainly because of the better insulation properties and there's also an issue re protecting certain types of wiring from coming in to contact with polystyrene (i.e. the Aerobord product).

(I've no involvement with these companies other than being a customer)
 
Dont know if this point was mentioned but in theese circumstances ..4" rafters I have secred 2"x2" to the underside of thr rafters, effectively making them 6"x2" then insulated between rafter with 100 / 120mm rigid Kingspan. Not a massive price difference between different thicknesses, so is economically more sensible to go this way providing you are not compromising the height of the room in adding an extra 2"
 
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