The ethics of climbing Everest

TarfHead

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"The triumph of mountaineer Mark Inglis, who last week became the first double amputee to climb Everest, has been soured by the news he left a dying climber to his fate."

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/magazine/5016536.stm

After reading Jon Krakauer's book Into Thin Air, I then read a number of other books about high altitude climbing (e.g. Touching the Void). This must have had some effect on me cos when I heard the story above, my first reaction was that his/their reaction was rational. Now I'm wondering why I thought that.
 
But in today's (London) Times there's a report of a rescue [of a different man] by a group who halted their climb to do so (although another group went past).