Taking cuttings from shrubs

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With retirement looming and as a non-gardener, I've decided to try to take cuttings from attractive shrubs and put in pots in the hope that I might have a few plants to re-set in the garden next spring. However I'm a bit clueless about the procedure. I assume that it's done in late autumn (Oct?) when the plant is dormant and that the cutting is taken at an angle under an off-shoot area. Not sure if the cutting is then placed in water until roots form or if it's dipped in rooting hormone and planted in a pot in warmish area until spring when it's planted outside. I would really appreciate any tips that might help. Thanks
 
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Plants vary in when it's best take cuttings, I would google each plant you want to replicate as some work better at different times of year. I always use the rooting hormone and pot and into shed but many can be successful with water rooting too, again it varies from plant to plant.

If you are on Facebook there are several Irish gardening pages that are great for info and asking questions.
 
Very helpful links SparkRite. So it looks like it's best to take cuttings early morning in spring and snip below a node. Technically it can be planted directly in the soil (but does technically mean that it's not very successful) or to sit in a clean glass of water until roots form. Is that it in a nutshell? I've often watched Monty Don but he only seems to put herb cuttings in water. Thanks
 
As @Monbretia says, it really depends on the plant.

If you prefer videos to reading, there's a guy called 'Mike Kincaid' who has lots of YouTube videos on propagating different plants from cuttings. He's American based, but I find them easy watching and very practical.

The specific plant will determine if you are better to take cuttings in Spring / Summer (softwood cuttings) or in Autumn (hardwood cuttings), along with whether you just pop into a glass of water (willow or 'umbrella plant' are very easy to start this way to get your confidence up), or if you plant into a pot.

Some articles on RHS:
Hardwood: https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=387
Softwood: https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=307

If you really get into it, you can start looking at leaf cuttings, or layering (for example 'Forest Flame'). But that's for your 2nd year!
 
Thanks RedOnion - every day's a school day:). Will need to read up a bit more and watch a few more videos. At least I know now that different cuttings can be taken at different times during the year. I do know that cold areas aren't good to start plants but wondering if warmer locations give better outcomes (inside kitchen window/ greenhouse).
 
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wondering if warmer locations give better outcomes (inside kitchen window/ greenhouse).
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Yes, but you don't want direct sunlight or anywhere too hot as the cuttings will just dry out. Getting the moisture right is key, if it's too dry the cutting just dry out, but if it's too wet they'll just rot before they start to grow.

Any idea which shrubs you're interested in trying to root?
 
After you take slips, just add a little honey to the part that will show roots before you plant in the pots.

I can't think of any scientific reason why this would work, but it appears to have worked for Mrs Lep in her gardening.
 
On a slightly different but related note, is it possible to take cuttings from a healthy beech hedge? Would they have to cultivated in a shed/polytunnel or just planted directly? Garden centres charge about a fiver apiece for bareroot plants less than a metre long.
 
Baby boomer said:
is it possible to take cuttings from a healthy beech hedge
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Unfortunately not. They need to be propagated from seed.

Wait another month and you'll be able to get bare rooted hedging direct from nurseries when it's in season.
 
If ur propagating Mediterranean plants, like rosemary etc, I use rooting powder and set in damp sand. This usually prevents rot
 
RedOnion said:
Unfortunately not. They need to be propagated from seed.

Wait another month and you'll be able to get bare rooted hedging direct from nurseries when it's in season.
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Thanks RedOnion. That's what I did last year. However, a few didn't take root and I need to fill in the gaps as well as extending the hedge by another 20/30 metres or so. I was hoping there might be a cheaper way of doing it. Ah well, another few bob for the nursery!

Would a soaker hose be a good idea?
 
@Baby boomer
I haven't used this company, but to give you an idea of how much beech hedge should cost in volume.
hedging.ie

Beech Hedges (Fagus Sylvatica), Beech Hedge | Hedging.ie

Beech Hedges are Deciduous Plants, Which is Easily Maintained and Needs Pruning Once a Year. Call Us To Purchase High Quality Beech Hedging.
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It shouldn't need a soaker hose unless you've very dry soil. The idea of planting October / November is to let the roots establish before leaves appear in Spring - that's the most stressful time on beech, so I'd water then once or twice if it hadn't rained.
A common problem with beech is planting it too deep, and the plant will just die. It also won't do well in wet soil - hornbeam would be a better option there.
 
RedOnion said:
A common problem with beech is planting it too deep, and the plant will just die.
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Ah, I think that might well have been the problem!

Soil is pretty ok, neither particularly wet or dry. Neighbour just up the road has a beech hedge 3 years old now and it looks great. He put a soaker hose along the full length of it and he reckons that makes it thrive.
 
sidebar question: Is it possible (or acceptable) to take cuttings from the parks? say for example cuttings from the lovely roses off in the war memorial garden?
 
Maling said:
sidebar question: Is it possible (or acceptable) to take cuttings from the parks? say for example cuttings from the lovely roses off in the war memorial garden?
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Regardless of legality, most of these roses are grafted onto a wild rootstock, so cuttings don't work too well.
 
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