Pinoy adventure
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Leo -you can get a specific drill bit too drill tiles which helps a lot. The name of the alludes me.Unless you're using small mosaic tiles and get lucky, it's simply not possible to future plan tile alignment to ensure that a hold would only require mounting points to be drilled along joints. Many of the grab rails use three fixings in a triangular pattern at each end.
Tile positioning should be dictated by the dimensions of the tiles and your space to ensure you end up with even sized cuts at both ends of a wall.
It's usually easy enough to adjust the position of a hold by a cm or two to ensure that you're not drilling too close to the edge.
I was more thinking about planning your design so you'll be able to fit your supports to non-tiled sections, if at all possible - just a bit of forward planning shouldn't be a huge deal.Unless you're using small mosaic tiles and get lucky, it's simply not possible to future plan tile alignment to ensure that a hold would only require mounting points to be drilled along joints. Many of the grab rails use three fixings in a triangular pattern at each end.
Tile positioning should be dictated by the dimensions of the tiles and your space to ensure you end up with even sized cuts at both ends of a wall.
It's usually easy enough to adjust the position of a hold by a cm or two to ensure that you're not drilling too close to the edge.
Yeah, I've done lots of tiling and tile cutting. You're probably thinking of carbide which work well even on porcelain, but must be kept cool. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Armeg-CTCSET6-0-Carbide-Tipped-Porcelain/dp/B00MISKR0U (Armeg) make really good carbide bits.Leo -you can get a specific drill bit too drill tiles which helps a lot. The name of the alludes me.
Fair enough, but you mentioned grab rails and a shower seat, so I assumed they would be in or around the shower in an area that would be tiled.I was more thinking about planning your design so you'll be able to fit your supports to non-tiled sections, if at all possible - just a bit of forward planning shouldn't be a huge deal.
Oh, I'm a DIYer, not a pro so no apology needed.Another great invention (in my eyes) is the sheets of PVC which can look like tiling (Sorry Leo).
Are there non slip walk in shower trays that someone might recommend? We have an existing small shower and the tray that has a ridged surface, but I would not call it non slip by any means. I have been to hotels where the surface seems to be slate or even light sand paper style non slip surface. Any thoughts?
You could replace the existing radiator with a 'dual fuel' model that will also house an electric element that you can use when you're not using the central heating.I have an existing radiator on the wall that is heated like all the other radiators in the house. The plan would be to put an electric operated towel rack above this radiator. Would this be dangerous so close to water? Or can I use my existing radiator in some way for instant/summer heat?
OK. So I would have to take out existing radiator and install a new dual fuel model.You could replace the existing radiator with a 'dual fuel' model that will also house an electric element that you can use when you're not using the central heating
You can't convert an existing rad to dual, so yes, an new one would be required. If you found one with the same spacing on the water connection pipes it's be easy enough to fit.OK. So I would have to take out existing radiator and install a new dual fuel model.
It may be easier to leave existing radiator there and put heated towel rack above?
That's what Mrs. Isle says. Go for broke, treat ourselves and stop making do and mend.You certainly could put an electric heater rail above, but it may look a little weird in effect having one radiator above another with a reach to place towels on it.
Is the one glass panel the same length as the shower tray or slightly shorter? Is the wall area where you "walk in", completely tiled?I'm very happy with the tray, which was bought and installed. It's higher than the level of the floor (a couple of inches), is the length and width of the bath it replaced, with one glass panel and a gap to walk in (no shower door).
I have received a quote and the installer wants to take down the four walls in our bathroom (all of which have some tiling). He doesn't want to take the existing tiles off, just rip the whole wall down. Then replace with new walls, then retile.
The shower tray is the same length as the old bath and the glass is about 2/3 of the length of the tray, leaving a walk-in gap at one end. The entire shower wall area is fully tiled. The rest of the bathroom is tiled to a height of approximately 1 metre from the floor up.Is the one glass panel the same length as the shower tray or slightly shorter? Is the wall area where you "walk in", completely tiled?
I have received a quote and the installer wants to take down the four walls in our bathroom (all of which have some tiling). He doesn't want to take the existing tiles off, just rip the whole wall down. Then replace with new walls, then retile.
Can the existing tiles on our wall not be taken off carefully and replaced with new tiles?
I totally agree. It seems to be a very lazy way of doing things.Sounds very strange. Have never heard of anyone doing that. Presumably stud wall so this is why he perhaps feels that it is quicker. Would have thought that in taking the walls down that it would be very hard not to damage the ceiling.
I am being told that this could cause problems to the stud wall behind. They don't want to do "surgical work" was a comment used by one company. They don't want to keep old sink or toilet either. Labour only quote €8000. Everything else on top of this.My installer removed all of the old tiling before putting the new tiles on the wall.
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