replacing downlighter bulbs

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putsch

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I think that's what I'm trying to do!

The lights are 50w GU10 recessed downlights. Couldn't remove the first one at all. Then managed to get one out but it looks different to the replacement in that the white plastic piece at the end seems to have stayed in the fitting and it's just the light with sharp little pins that came out whereas the replacement has the plastic bit and two mini screwlike things (?). Can't figure out if I should be taking a bit off the new one or trying to screw more out of the existing fitting.

Please be kind - I'm of a 100w solus bulb vintage!!
 
Hi Putsch,

Have you the right replacement? I have two kind of downlighters in the kitchen & had similar issue when replacing "blown" bulb. The GU10 are the "full fitting" from what I can remember... like small spot lights... In the other one, I just needed a bulb - "G4 Capsules" - had to take the glass fitting off the front, then pull out bulb (well prise it out slowly) & insert G4 Capsule.

I can take pics & send them on if you want more detail of the bulbs...
 
I've tried out a number of the low-energy GU10s of various brands and various levels of wattage from less than 1 watt up to over 6. Although they are improving, none has been quite satisfactory. The light output in all cases reduced over a period of about a year - some not so bad, but others reduced to unsatisfactory levels. I think the future is in these bulbs but not quite there yet - maybe there is a brand I haven't spotted. They are not easy to get in Dublin - I've bought most online
 
GU10s can be very difficult to get out, especially when replaced for the first time.

It sounds like what happened is that the one you got out has seperated, and the base has stayed in the housing.

If you look into the housing without a bulb, what you should see is two holes, one at 12o'clock and one at 6 o'clock. These are round with a slot/tail that goes clockwise for a small bit. The way to put in the bulb is to align the two "mini screw like things" (from your post) with the round holes, and twist them so that they rotate the length of the tails (about 10 degrees).

Because the bulb face is flush with the fitting, it is difficult to turn the existing bulb anti-clockwise to get it out (the reverse of the fitting procedure).

What I suggest is (when the power is turned off!) trying the first fitting again, or another one if there are more than two. Wear a pair of marigold gloves which will give better purchase. Use a chair or something to get nearer to the fitting, and use your thumbs to rotate the bulb anticlockwise. When it rotates about 10 degrees it should stop, and then drop out (as it has reached the circular part of of the hole/slot
). It may need a wiggle as there isn't much space between the pins and the holes.

You may have to prise out the broken one with a pliers or similar to get a grip on what is left of the bulb. Getting a full one out will help you see how it is supposed to look/fit.

(spoken by someone whe has 16 GU10 builbs in the house, and has replaced quite a few of them).

Hope this helps
 
Gulliver said:
I've tried out a number of the low-energy GU10s of various brands and various levels of wattage from less than 1 watt up to over 6. Although they are improving, none has been quite satisfactory. The light output in all cases reduced over a period of about a year - some not so bad, but others reduced to unsatisfactory levels. I think the future is in these bulbs but not quite there yet - maybe there is a brand I haven't spotted. They are not easy to get in Dublin - I've bought most online
Click to expand...
FWIW I replaced a dozen standard bulbs with these about a year ago, and have had no problems to date. The only thing I found was that the light from them (even in the "warm white" version) is a little on the cool side, for a bedroom. A tiny lick of gold-coloured nail varnish applied criss-cross between the diodes fixed that (and before anyone asks, yes, I did check first how much it raised the operating temperature of the bulb — practically no difference; they barely get hand-hot even if left on constantly).

Anyway, I was never going to use up all my sparkly gold nail polish otherwise.
 
DrMoriarty said:
. A tiny lick of gold-coloured nail varnish applied criss-cross between the diodes fixed that .
Click to expand...

Do you mean you put the nailvarnish between the bulby glass bits, like on the front part?

did you ship from US? Any problems?
 
Thanks all for the advice - hammer on nail Buddyboy - great specific advice!

As its a rented place was a bit nervous in case caused damage - went the GAMI (get a man in) route - well he was nearby!
 
Slim said:
Do you mean you put the nailvarnish between the bulby glass bits, like on the front part?
Click to expand...
Yup. I didn't coat the whole area, just painted light strokes of varnish between the rows. I'm sure there are far more suitable products, but I watched for a day or two to make sure the varnish didn't start smoking or dripping or anything. These bulbs don't generate nearly as much heat as the halogens (at least mine don't).

Slim said:
did you ship from US? Any problems?
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Nope, China I think. No problems, but I'll grant you the website doesn't inspire confidence. :D
I only bought 6 bulbs at a time, so that each consignment fell under the threshold for VAT/duty.
 
Those type are becoming obsolete now, SMT (surface mount technology) is the way to go now, there are also dimmable version available.

I have 19 3.6W LED SMT's in my kitchen for over a year now and am still very happy with them compared to the old 50W Halogens.
 
DrMoriarty said:
Yup. I didn't coat the whole area, just painted light strokes of varnish between the rows. I'm sure there are far more suitable products, but I watched for a day or two to make sure the varnish didn't start smoking or dripping or anything. These bulbs don't generate nearly as much heat as the halogens (at least mine don't).

Nope, China I think. No problems, but I'll grant you the website doesn't inspire confidence. :D
I only bought 6 bulbs at a time, so that each consignment fell under the threshold for VAT/duty.
Click to expand...
Thanks Doc. Might look into SMTs as Sparkrite suggests.
 
Does anyone know if you have to remove the transformers wired for the GU 10's in order to insert the LED light bulbs because they operate at different current levels ?
 
stevo said:
Does anyone know if you have to remove the transformers wired for the GU 10's in order to insert the LED light bulbs because they operate at different current levels ?
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Generally YES as most LED lamps require 230V however there are some out there that will work with a transformer but only with certain types of transformer, ie. constant current types.

If it were me I would ditch the existing transformer and go for the 230V LEDs.
 
SparkRite said:
Those type are becoming obsolete now, SMT (surface mount technology) is the way to go now, there are also dimmable version available.

I have 19 3.6W LED SMT's in my kitchen for over a year now and am still very happy with them compared to the old 50W Halogens.
Click to expand...

Hi SparkRite, do you have a link to show these type of bulbs?

I have GU10 Led spotlights that are crap. Fine for a while but then the LED's go sort of yellowish that gives very poor light.

Does your 3.6W LED SMT's have a GU10 fitting or does the unit have to be replaced?

Thanks
 
Shane007 said:
Hi SparkRite, do you have a link to show these type of bulbs?

I have GU10 Led spotlights that are crap. Fine for a while but then the LED's go sort of yellowish that gives very poor light.

Does your 3.6W LED SMT's have a GU10 fitting or does the unit have to be replaced?

Thanks
Click to expand...

No the base unit does not have to be replaced as they are a direct replacement for the original GU10 lamp.

I can't find the exact site I bought them from, they were Uk based as they were cheaper than here, but there are loads of them now Shane.

They are often referred to SMD ( surface mounted device) as well.
 
Great thanks. I will check with my local wholesaler tomorrow.

A lot more came up on Google under SMD. Thanks.
 
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