I have a 2004 renault laguna II, 1.6l petrol.
A few days ago, the toxic fume filter warning light came on, and has been on constantly since.
There are no other warning lights on (and I have checked that all warning lights are working via the dashboard test – press trip computer button when inserting keycard)
The engine is apparently starting and running fine, no juddering either at idle or at speed. (The engine does sound ever so slightly more “throaty” than usual the past month though.)
The exhaust doesn’t smell any worse or different than usual.
Both rear shocks were replaced about a week ago (160 Euros), after the back right one started squeaking and leaking shock oil.
The car has occasionally had electrical problems in the past, such as just clicking when starting (fixed by rolling it forward a few inches) and also the whole electrical system and dash going crazy when the battery was low during the winter. (Fixed by jumping from a STRONG other car) So this warning *might* just be an electrical glitch.
I’m not a mechanic, and don’t have much tools or experience working with cars, but have an engineering/test background. (I did manage to fix the driver-side electric window by just replacing the drive cable after it got damp, rusted and frayed. Better than the 300 Euros I was quoted for a new assembly, motor and fitting)
I don’t have access to a freebie diagnostic test, but I do have a cheap OBD fault code gizmo on order (<20 Euros) from some guy in Hong Kong (probably take a fortnight to get here)
I had a look under the bonnet to check the coils, since I saw other threads saying that might be the problem. I felt the tops of the coils while the engine was idling, and the second one from the left felt different (could feel stronger tapping at a few Hz compared to just engine vibration on the other ones) I took it out to have a look at it, and it looked and smelt ok, no burning or cracking.
When I tried to start the engine with the coil disconnected, the engine started but misfired unmistakeably. So the coil is not failed (but might be on the way out).
I checked the engine relay box, and noticed that the brown relay in R1 was ‘loose’, and in fact, there are no electrical connections in that slot! The R3 slot seemed to be cleaner (no dust) than the others (including R1), and it had connections, so I plugged it in there instead. That didn’t seem to make any difference to the fume warning light. What does R3 do, and is there anywhere I can get a list of the relay bay functionality?
The coil I removed did have a little bit of oil on it, so I checked the engine again the next morning when it was brighter. There is quite a bit of fairly fresh oil pooled in the bolt holes near the #2 coil, and a very small trickle has leaked into the hole the coil goes into (but not down as far as the sparkplug). The back and front of the engine seem fairly clean, but there is a lot more oil staining over much of the lower right of the engine than there was the last time I looked closely (about 6 months ago)
The dipstick shows an almost full sump.
The air inlet plastic box was also not connected to the RHS of the inlet manifold, so I reconnected that this morning.
What do you think I should try next before I take it to a garage and get charged thru the nose?
A few days ago, the toxic fume filter warning light came on, and has been on constantly since.
There are no other warning lights on (and I have checked that all warning lights are working via the dashboard test – press trip computer button when inserting keycard)
The engine is apparently starting and running fine, no juddering either at idle or at speed. (The engine does sound ever so slightly more “throaty” than usual the past month though.)
The exhaust doesn’t smell any worse or different than usual.
Both rear shocks were replaced about a week ago (160 Euros), after the back right one started squeaking and leaking shock oil.
The car has occasionally had electrical problems in the past, such as just clicking when starting (fixed by rolling it forward a few inches) and also the whole electrical system and dash going crazy when the battery was low during the winter. (Fixed by jumping from a STRONG other car) So this warning *might* just be an electrical glitch.
I’m not a mechanic, and don’t have much tools or experience working with cars, but have an engineering/test background. (I did manage to fix the driver-side electric window by just replacing the drive cable after it got damp, rusted and frayed. Better than the 300 Euros I was quoted for a new assembly, motor and fitting)
I don’t have access to a freebie diagnostic test, but I do have a cheap OBD fault code gizmo on order (<20 Euros) from some guy in Hong Kong (probably take a fortnight to get here)
I had a look under the bonnet to check the coils, since I saw other threads saying that might be the problem. I felt the tops of the coils while the engine was idling, and the second one from the left felt different (could feel stronger tapping at a few Hz compared to just engine vibration on the other ones) I took it out to have a look at it, and it looked and smelt ok, no burning or cracking.
When I tried to start the engine with the coil disconnected, the engine started but misfired unmistakeably. So the coil is not failed (but might be on the way out).
I checked the engine relay box, and noticed that the brown relay in R1 was ‘loose’, and in fact, there are no electrical connections in that slot! The R3 slot seemed to be cleaner (no dust) than the others (including R1), and it had connections, so I plugged it in there instead. That didn’t seem to make any difference to the fume warning light. What does R3 do, and is there anywhere I can get a list of the relay bay functionality?
The coil I removed did have a little bit of oil on it, so I checked the engine again the next morning when it was brighter. There is quite a bit of fairly fresh oil pooled in the bolt holes near the #2 coil, and a very small trickle has leaked into the hole the coil goes into (but not down as far as the sparkplug). The back and front of the engine seem fairly clean, but there is a lot more oil staining over much of the lower right of the engine than there was the last time I looked closely (about 6 months ago)
The dipstick shows an almost full sump.
The air inlet plastic box was also not connected to the RHS of the inlet manifold, so I reconnected that this morning.
What do you think I should try next before I take it to a garage and get charged thru the nose?