Why unfortunately? Isn't such an approach pretty effective insulation?unfortunately only white styrofoam insulation was put in the cavity.
Dunno - I'm no expert on this but...I had thought that the 50/75mm Kingspan double-foil back was more efficient, is this not the case?
... before you go replacing the intra wall insulation perhaps there is more bang for your buck to be gained by checking the attic insulation, (double glazed?) windows/doors/vents/chimney for draught proofing and insulation etc. first if you have not checked these out already?At the moment the house just doesn't seem to be holding the heat, I have GSHP UFH system and the heat-pump seems to have been on non-stop, (certainly 80% of the time), day and night, since November, (dreading the ESB bill, night-rate included!).
I was figuring that this constant operation of said heat-pummp may have been due to poor insulation, perhaps this is normal, does anyone know?
Dunno - I'm no expert on this but...
... before you go replacing the intra wall insulation perhaps there is more bang for your buck to be gained by checking the attic insulation, (double glazed?) windows/doors/vents/chimney for draught proofing and insulation etc. first if you have not checked these out already?
Draughts are more likely to be a problem as opposed to insufficient wall insulation. If the envelope of the dwelling is not airtight, the energy efficiency of the dwelling will reduce dramatically regardless of whether you hvae the best wall insulation available.Thanks Clubman I think I will do this first, .. I have been particulary concerned with the double-glazed wooden windows, (they always seem very cold), and there are frightening draughts coming under the doors, (house not near finished yet!), have already "closed" all the 6-inch diameter vents and stuffed insulation up the chimneys. Now all I need is a shop that sells those little "draught joss-sticks" to determine exact location of draughts
I'm still fascinated/perturbed by the tendancy some people (not necessarily you sid) have towards sealing up wall vents - they are there for a reason as far as I know. I know first hand of people who have died from carbon monoxoid poisioning due to faulty gas appliances and inadequate house ventilation so be careful when sealing vents!I wouldnt be too concerned with whats designed to provide ventiliation ie. blocking vents. Its more a case of tracking down heat loss through openings that have not been designed for.
Other than under the water tank which should be left uncovered in most or all cases.The easiest starting points that dont cost a lot would be;
-Attic insulation - as clubman mentioned. Make sure its uniform ie. no spots left uncovered
A candle!?Could you recommend the most efficient method of determing where draughts come from?
You could have a 'blower door test' carried out (google it for more info). Basically, this involves blocking all the openings that are designed to be there ie. vents, chimneys, etc. - then using a fan to expell air from the dwelling. You can use smoke sticks/smoke puffers but probably the best way is to place your hand around all window/door frames, wall joinings etc - if theres air being sucked in you'll notice it straight way.Could you recommend the most efficient method of determing where draughts come from? I think that there "joss stick" or herbal cigarette smoke blowers on the market but I have never seen one for sale. I saw what looked like a soldering iron with smoke coming off it on "Teach Glas" on TG4 but didn't catch the product's name.
Agreed. Probably wasnt clear in what I said. Vents are there for a reason and shouldnt be blocked. Whilst the irish standard for ventilation is far from the best (heat recovery system in an airtight dwelling would be better), we still shouldnt block them.I'm still fascinated/perturbed by the tendancy some people (not necessarily you sid) have towards sealing up wall vents
Alternatively, you could get someone to carry out a thermal imaging analysis.
I had thought that the 50/75mm Kingspan double-foil back was more efficient, is this not the case?
With regard to thermography and fan pressurisation testing, beware! I used a prima facia professional company that I found online; highly qualified personnel and an informative website. I had a couple of issues when it was being carried out but afterwards did my own investigations and discovered that it had not been carried out correctly. Ensure that the company is prepared to carry out the test in accordance with best practice
Blown cavity wall insulation is the most viable solution. Had this done recently as there was only 60mm expanded polystyrene in the cavity leaving a 40mm gap. The cavity is now full and it has alleviated the problem.
With regard to thermography and fan pressurisation testing, beware! I used a prima facia professional company that I found online; highly qualified personnel and an informative website. I had a couple of issues when it was being carried out but afterwards did my own investigations and discovered that it had not been carried out correctly. Ensure that the company is prepared to carry out the test in accordance with best practice
GIR064 Post construction testing document [broken link removed]
This is yet another example of totally unregulated services being provided to consumers. It is a relatively new phenonemon for houses to be tested and most thermographers do not seem to have a construction background or knowledge as the historical use of thermography is in electrical installations.
Clubman, why should the area under the tank be left uncovered and in which cases should it not?Other than under the water tank which should be left uncovered in most or all cases.
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