Has anyone used airtightness paints such as this http://airtightpaint.webs.com/faq.htm ? Sounds a bit gimicky.
show me Irish certification for this, please?Another option is to frame for drywall finish, and use spray insulation. That will give your an airtight seal as well as insulation.
wide cavity , grey bead full-fill, with some stone external - new build, yeah?I'll be putting natural stone on the front of my new build, the rest will be finished in a cement render. Will this leave that side prone to air leakage and if so would a lick of this paint, applied to the external surface, before the natuaral stone is applied be good to use? I'm aware that wet plaster applied to the inside surface of the external walls will help here also.
plaster the wall using air-tightness tape at the junctions.Thanks for the reply.
I only used my hand (wet finger test) but it is definitely a breeze. You are right the plastering/cracks could be contributing but from what I understand these blocks can be a problem with airtightness.
I rang a supplier (recommended on here - ecological buildings, I think) and he suggested using a scratch coat on the wall then mech fix an insulated slab. He said to ring insulated boards suppliers to confirm product ok with scratch coat under.
does this extension comply with building regulations? have you had it signed off by an arch/eng? the joys of home extensions on the cheap..The floors were insulated (100mm between suspended joists) and the roof is sloped with 100mm between rafters. My lovely builders also told me that they had insulated the wall I am working on but were lying through their teeth! Have since done a runner.
Unfortunately I spent all my money on the conversion so cant pay anyone to come in so trying to do whatever bit I can to make the room liveable. Sure, we'll see.
lets see the IAB certifcation for this product or at least CE/EN certification relating to air-tightness? thanksThe company I work for produce the airtight paint that you are discussing. It is used and specified mostly on commercial projects because it is is quick to apply to large areas (up to 60m2 per hour), is airtight and is cost effective when compared to parging or plastering, or applying 2-3 coats of masonry paint over a few days. Our coating is often specified for walls that are subsequently going to have a plasterboard surface, architects realise that boarding alone is not enough to meet current airtightness regulations on commercial properties.
On a single garage wall you might want to use a standard locally available masonry paint, as application time is not a big problem for you, this will make a big difference to the airtightness of the room, provided you put enough on to fill all the cracks and small holes. Once applied, you will be able to see any larger cracks that need filling over the surface of the wall or at the edges. Another option is a parge coat, because although messy and slow it's not going to break the bank if you are applying it yourself. These are low cost ways to improve the airtightness of your garage and they will also reduce any noise transmission from next door (if thats an issue). Concrete block walls are extremely leaky, it's best to take them out of the equation altogether.
We are currently putting together some examples/tests to show the difference between our product and other products, such as a single coat of paint, 2 coats, 3 coats etc.
there you go! get the ventilation pipe/sleevesI have a similar problem and I had been trying to figure out where the wind was getting in. It seems to me to be down to the air vents. Taking off the inside vents, in the older part of the house, these vents have a plastic insert, like a pipe, that allows the air to pass from outside to inside. In the affected area, however, there is no insert, just the outside vent, the inside vent, and the cavity wall in between, so the wind can circulates freely.
For the moment, I have inserted some spare bits of insulation in a kind of circle around the area to block the cavity wall while leaving passage from outside to inside, but I plan to use expanding foam to seal it better, perhaps with a piece of plastic pipe in the middle for the air passageway.
?Perhaps your problem is the same, and if you tackle how the draught is getting in, you won't need to be messing around with all the other insulation?
plaster the wall using air-tightness tape at the junctions.
when you say converted, are you living in it? is this wall the boundary wall? is your neighbours side of the wall dry i.e. is its internal, just not a heated space?
does this extension comply with building regulations? have you had it signed off by an arch/eng? the joys of home extensions on the cheap..
can you post a link to these results and its certification, thanks.Elite Airtight has been tested for airtightness by an independent laboratory in accordance with BS EN 12114:2000 - the information is available to see on our website
apologiesThanks for the response - bit harsh and presumptuous there with the "on the cheap" comment.
there are solutions, where you want to introduce a regulated ventilation supply such as this (no connection btw)
Thanks Lowco2design for the demand control ventilation link,
- It seems a more cost effective way to meet your ventilation needs than a MHRV unit.
- Does this type of system meet the TGD part F?
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