Linseed Oil ,primer, Paint

dodo

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When primer is put onto exterior wood do I have to sand lightly before I put the exterior gloss paint, or do I just paint straight onto primer when it is dried
 
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What is your thinking on using Linseed oil? My only experience of it would be using it to oil wooden gutters (bare wood)and that would be the boiled variety as opposed to the natural. The natural version is a great food source for mould if used outside.
 
The instructions on the gloss should clarify, but for best results, always carry out a light sanding between coats.
Leo
 
Just to piggyback on this... I've a load of internal doors that I'm going to paint with gloss. They're just bare wood at the moment. Can I use ordinary emulsion as an undercoat/primer, or do I need to buy one of the special undercoat paints, which seem a lot dearer?
 
you are good to do that no problem
Just to piggyback on this... I've a load of internal doors that I'm going to paint with gloss. They're just bare wood at the moment. Can I use ordinary emulsion as an undercoat/primer, or do I need to buy one of the special undercoat paints, which seem a lot dearer?
 
Just to piggyback on this... I've a load of internal doors that I'm going to paint with gloss. They're just bare wood at the moment. Can I use ordinary emulsion as an undercoat/primer, or do I need to buy one of the special undercoat paints, which seem a lot dearer?

I wouldn't recommend that at all. Undercoat paints exist and are significantly different to emulsion for a reason, and not purely to line the pockets of the manufacturers.
Leo
 
.If you seen 2 doors painted one with undercoat as you call it and one with lefeover emulsion paint, you would see no difference, the proof is in the pudding try it, also it is better on the pocket and better for the enviroment that we recycle this as best we can, but if you are a label man then go with what Leo says,
I wouldn't recommend that at all. Undercoat paints exist and are significantly different to emulsion for a reason, and not purely to line the pockets of the manufacturers.
Leo
 
I can't imagine that a door painted only with undercoat would look pristine for long!
 
.If you seen 2 doors painted one with undercoat as you call it and one with lefeover emulsion paint, you would see no difference, the proof is in the pudding try it, also it is better on the pocket and better for the enviroment that we recycle this as best we can, but if you are a label man then go with what Leo says,

Would have to totally agree with Leo here. Gloss paint applied over emulsion would not adhere to the surface properly.

IMHO gloss paint is mainly to protect a surface such as doors, skirting boards etc and emulsion is not hardwearing enough for the job.
 
IMHO gloss paint is mainly to protect a surface such as doors, skirting boards etc and emulsion is not hardwearing enough for the job.
Our joinery was painted a few years ago with non gloss (satin?) top coat and it is none the worse for it (even with a 2 year old giving it socks!). I thought that Leo's point was about proper preparation and layering of undercoat followed by finishing coat with the latter not necessarily being gloss?
 
Our joinery was painted a few years ago with non gloss (satin?) top coat and it is none the worse for it (even with a 2 year old giving it socks!). I thought that Leo's point was about proper preparation and layering of undercoat followed by finishing coat with the latter not necessarily being gloss?

Maybe I'm reading things incorrectly (at this late hour :) ) but it would appear to me that damson is considering using emulsion for a base coat rather than buying expensive undercoat/primer and Leo is not recommending this. Damson does not mention if they will use gloss to finish the job off but I would imagine that is their intention.

I would consider that applying emulsion paint to a door, be it for an undercoat or topcoat is a waste of paint and DIY time.

I see Dulux give this description for Satinwood:

Satinwood
Dulux Satinwood is a solvent-based satin finish suitable for use on interior wood and metal surfaces. It is tough, hardwearing and dirt resistant, and does not require an undercoat (except in areas where a strong colour change is required), so it can be applied direct to suitably prepared surfaces.
 
Yes, my query was whether I could get away with using:
emulsion as base layer + gloss topcoat
instead of
undercoat as base layer + gloss topcoat.

From Sueellen's post, it looks like I could go for
satinwood on bare wood
which might be the handiest option, though I doubt one coat would be enough so it would probably turn out being
satinwood as base layer + satinwood topcoat.
 
This thread is a little confusing but there seems to be a suggestion that regular (water based) emulsion can be used as an "undercoat" prior to finishing with an oil based goss or top coat (like satinwood)? I think that to use an emulsion instead of a proper undercoat is a false economy. Oil based undercoats contain special binders and fillers which give the best background for subsequent finishes. Proper oil based undercoats dry quickly and have good "hiding" power. Gloss and satinwood can be applied easily and most successfully to a properly undercoated substrate. I have heard of "painters" (cowboys I reckon) using emulsion as a cost cutting exercise and as a way to speed through a job but it's a recipe for disaster. Water based emulsion has very little "body" (when compared to undercoat), it's "hiding power" is poor as a result and it raises the grain of the timber. It doesn't sand well and the finished job will not stand up to knocks and scrapes like a proper oil based system The only exception to this is where emulsion is overcoated with varnish or clear lacquer; this is used to create certain paint effects and the motiviation is entirely different. The best paint system for all painted woodwork (inside or out) is (oil based) primer, 2 undercoats and 1 finish coat of gloss/ satinwood. Dulux have a water based acrylic primer/ undercoat (called "Dulux Quick Drying Primer") available which is fine if you need the fast drying properties but I wouldn't rate it- it raises the grain and this is especially problematic on particle boards due to the water content of the paint.
 
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