How to remove fireplace surround

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bogota400

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Need to install a solid fuel stove into existing fireplace in relatively new house. Was going to get a plumber to sort it but seeing as he hasnt bothered to get back to me 6 weeks later - and the fact that funds are tight anyways - want to do it myself.

Just wondering if anyone has removed a fireplace surround before as I need to get the fireplace insert out? I'm not sure as to where to start as regards prizing out the fireplace panels in case I damage them.

Anyone any ideas?
 
they are normally secured too the wall with 4 screws and a bead of caulk along the edge,2 screws on each side,check the plaster along the edge there might be a small trace of where the screws were filled,just dig out the filler and un screw the screws ,then try and prise out the fireplace with a nail bar.hope that helps.
 
With some fireplaces (mine included) there are strips of metal from the frame fixed into the surround. I tried to remove the frame but really couldn't without damaging the surrounding.

If there are screws as jab1 suggests then it may be a lot easier. If not then you might be better getting someone familiar with installing firreplaces to have a look.
 
I have no experience of this kind of thing and took out a fire surround recently with no bother - you think you are going to do alot of damage but you wont. Just need to find where the screws are which may take a little probing around and unscrew them (some fireplaces have 2 but most newer ones will have 4) and fire surround just comes out.

When you put in the stove, are you putting fire surround back in?
if yes then you will just need to screw it back in and fill cracks and where screws are with filler or builders chaulk (about 5euro and comes in a tube like silicon)
if no, now this is the stage I'm at - how are you going to finish it off?. I was going to put up plaster board inside which hasnt a smooth finish and skim over it but dont know if it will crack etc with heat from stove. It will be about 6" from stove?, is plaster board fireproof etc ?

Best of luck !!
 
Thanks jab/barney/novice - have some time now so will try and find these screws.
NoviceDIY'er said:
When you put in the stove, are you putting fire surround back in?
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The frame or surround is going back in but with a granite insert - cast iron inserts are not suitable for use with solid fuel stoves - if it wasnt for this, I would leave well enough alone!
NoviceDIY'er said:
if yes then you will just need to screw it back in and fill cracks and where screws are with filler or builders chaulk (about 5euro and comes in a tube like silicon)
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Well, if I manage to get to that stage, that sounds straight forward enough. [broken link removed] Have to replace insert and hack back into fireback, also remove this angular piece that comes out from fireback as its in the way of the pipe. If I hack this all back, its going to look rough. Do I just plaster using fire cement or what other way would leave it looking ok?
[QUOTE-NoviceDIY'er]if no, now this is the stage I'm at - how are you going to finish it off?. I was going to put up plaster board inside which hasnt a smooth finish and skim over it but dont know if it will crack etc with heat from stove. It will be about 6" from stove?, is plaster board fireproof etc ?[/quote] Don't have any answer for you there Novice but perhaps someone else can help?
 
I checked for visible signs of spots that had been filled but couldn't see any for sure. Then used one of those stud/metal detectors - and it bleeped away at two identical points on each side - one near the base and one near the top. [broken link removed] but have found nothing. Shouldn't the screws be right there? Are they holding it in with a metal bracket? Just want to double check before I start making a big job for myself..
 
the brackets should be there. remove the screws from the wall first [no need to do same with surround]. the fire surround can then be removed, leaving the hearth on its own. lift up the hearth by using a hammer and chisel to loosen it. they are both heavy so you will need help. remember when you are putting in your stove , make sure you have plenty of ventilation in case of carbon monoxide. good luck
 
Leo said:
How deep did you go in your exploratory dig?
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p gilmartin said:
the brackets should be there. remove the screws from the wall first [no need to do same with surround].
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Just a couple of mm short - was there - just didn't expect it to be that far back!
There still seems to be some some hold on it - could it be that theres still some screws over the mantelpiece board?? My aldi metal/stud detector seems to be indicating one on each end and one in the middle ie. i think theres screws there but would rather ask the silly question of whether this makes sense now than create unnecessary work.

<EDIT> - There was just the one screw on the top holding it. </EDIT>

p gilmartin said:
the fire surround can then be removed, leaving the hearth on its own. lift up the hearth by using a hammer and chisel to loosen it. they are both heavy so you will need help.
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I'm a bit tight on space but was going to go with a small stove (stanley oisin) and hack back into fireback to fit it - this should allow me to leave existing hearth untouched...
 
Now have surround off and insert off. Next job is to hack back into fireback. There is about 5inches of fireback jutting out (which is kind of shown here) - forward of the flue. Can I simply hack this back? Are there any implications in doing this?
Any other aspects I need to bear in mind before I get the chisel out??
 
the mantle piece is normally cemented onto the surround and recessed into wall. if you want to leave the mantle/p there, then tap under the mantle/p with a wooden hammer. this should free it and you will able to remove the surround, leaving the mantle/p hanging there.
 
It was a timber surround/mantel - so it all came off together - just as well pleased with that.
What do you think about hacking back into fireback. Should I chisel away?



Thanks everyone for the help so far
 
Thanks to p gilmartin going out of his way and giving me some very useful advice as regards how to get this sorted, I've made some good progress on this. Have fireback cleared out and will be working on it again next Monday.
Just wanted to post this as p gilmartin told me someone suggested to him via pm that he was touting for work. Can confirm that this couldnt be further from the truth. Thanks for the help PG - might have a few more questions for you before I have this thing installed!
 
DavyJones said:
How far out of the hearth will the stove come?
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Can't give you a straight answer on that right now as not at home. But can tell you the following;
From back wall (now that I have torn out fireback) to front edge of hearth = 800mm. Depth of Stanley Oisin = 380mm. To meet building regs, I need 300mm clearance from the stove opening to edge of hearth. Hearth isnt that deep - I think its just 500mm....so it won't be that far out.

Is your question related to the disadvantage of having it recessed? I could extend the hearth - but thats going to involve more spend (cash is tight), carpet adjustment, etc.
My plan is to get insulation in every side of it including the top if this is safe and feasible ie. in the conical concrete flue 'gather' that leads to the flue opening, pack rockwool in there around the pipe - and stick in a layer of fireproof plasterboard - with an opening left for flue pipe. Is this feasible/safe?

Other thing i'm confused about is the use of a regiser plate? Have read a bit about this but don't quite understand what the need is. If I purchase a short length of flue pipe, then attach a short length of flexible liner to it (will need to do this as the stoves top mounted flue opening isnt going to be directly above the chimneys flue opening ie. slightly off vertical), fixing the liner into the chimneys flue opening with a fire rated sealant.

Does this make any sense?
 
Depends on size of room. if it is a large room I would bring it out a bit. You can always connect into the back of the stove and use the blanking plate to cap of flue opening on top.
will the fexible flue liner be seen? besure and use flue liner suitable for solid fuel, as it burns hotter than oil/gas. I think the regiser plate finishes off the job nicely although they are not essential.
 
If you can't find the screws easily try using a magnet or one of those devices for locating wires, studs etc.
 
BillK said:
If you can't find the screws easily try using a magnet or one of those devices for locating wires, studs etc.
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Thanks BillK - as you will see in the later posts on the thread, have gotten past original query on removing surround. And yes - the stud/metal finder really took the hard work out of it - finally got a chance to use that aldi gadget that had been gathering dust for the last two years!

The room is approx. 5.5x5.5m - so not that big. In fact, it remains to be seen how often I will end up using the stove - as simply by its very installation, It will pay for itself as its minimising both downdraft (which can be a big problem some evenings here when wind blowing a certain direction) and airflow down to the bare minimum when its closed.
Thanks for the tip on the flexible liner - it will be very short and wont be seen.
Is it easy to connect flexible liner to stove flue? What is used to seal and secure this connection?
Only other concerns I have now is not having enough space to stick insulation beneath fireproof plasterboard which i will be screwing into back wall. Don't suppose there is another fire resistant alternative to rockwool that is very thin? Just about have enough space in terms of depth at the moment.
Lastly, I wonder would one of these Ecofans help in radiating heat outwards? Anyone any experience?
 
One thing to remember about flues is, what ever size comes off the stove is the least size you must maintain for the whole of the flue lenght. E.G if its a 5inch flue you can put it in a six inch flue nine inch flue and so on. you can go bigger, never smaller.

If you slip the 5 " into 6" fexli, you can use sealent cord and/or heat resistant sealant. besure you have a few inchs overlap. you can also use both to seal any gaps in chimney if they are small. Both can be found at any plumbing merchants.
 
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