Height of grounds for kitchen?

L

lastbuilders

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Hi,

I am building a timber frame and plan to put in some grounds for kitchen cabinets. I plan on putting in 2*2's across the studs. Can someone let me know what height these need to be?

Lastbuilders
 
It'll probably depend on what kitchen you go for, different designs use different methods to attach the wall units. Have you chosen your kitchen yet? One method I've seen to give some flexibility is to attach a large strip of 18 mil mdf or ply where the wall units are to go.
Leo
 
Sorry I'm not being smart, but regardless of what is the standard height of units are, no point having ones you cant reach, But standard hight of worktop is 950mm and a nice height to top units would be 450mm over worktop and top unit may be up to 700mm high so if your 6ft you will reach all and Mrs say 5ft 3 will be good at streaching to reach top shelf,
Hope this helps.
 
Leo is spot on regarding using a sheet material for grounds, 2x2 wouldn't be sufficient to carry a heavy unit anyway and it wouldn't leave much room for error in locating the grounds after. In our work we use 19mm ply fixed between metal studs on partition walls or 19mm mdf where we are putting grounds behind a dry lined masonry wall. We generally rip sheets into 150, 200 or 300mm wide strips- the heavier the fitting the bigger the strip. Sheet material also helps to stiffen up a timber framed structure considerably. I like to pocket screw the ply through to the timber studs, using dry wall screws, which are cheap and strong. Pocket screwing (using a spade bit) from the face of the ply gets you around the fact that ply edges do not take screws very well. In a complicated layout I'd roughly sketch the layout and location of grounds onto a nearby door frame or such to help me find them after. 3 (4 or 5 for 300mm deep grounds) pocket screws per stud will give a good solid fixing and the ply will be great for taking screws afterwards. Be sure to put in similar grounds for fixing your extractor hood.
 
HI Carpenter,

I am using 2*2 as I am putting in a service cavity of 2*2 on all external walls. Some of these walls will have cabinets so I was going to put the 2*2 at the heights required. If I use ply it will be narrowerer than the rest of the service cavity. I was also considering using sasmox which is a very strong plasterboard that can take the weight of a cabinet bit is a lot more expensive that standard plasterboard.

Lastbuilders
 
lastbuilders said:
HI Carpenter,

I am using 2*2 as I am putting in a service cavity of 2*2 on all external walls. Some of these walls will have cabinets so I was going to put the 2*2 at the heights required. If I use ply it will be narrowerer than the rest of the service cavity. I was also considering using sasmox which is a very strong plasterboard that can take the weight of a cabinet bit is a lot more expensive that standard plasterboard.

Lastbuilders
Click to expand...

Hi Lastbuilders
I'm not sure I understand your construction, what do you mean by a service cavity? Standard timber frame constr. comprises 100mm ext. leaf (brick or block), cavity, breather membrane, ply sheathing, timber studs, insulation and finally foilbacked plasterboard internally(duplex). Are you putting in a vapour barrier? I haven't come across the Sasmox board, however I think if you know your cabinet positions ply grounds would be a far more economical solution.
 
Hi Carpenter,

There is a 140mm stud and a vapour barrier in front of it. I am doing a 2*2 service cavity at 400centers up the wall on all external walls that will be slabbed to. I never want to see another screw after puttin all these up.This is so the electrician and plumber do not break vapour cavity with wires sockets etc. I have put 5 * 2 at 850, 1600 and 1900 for the cabinets and some 5 *2 supports for the fan and towel rails. The internal studs are at 400 centers so I think they will be fine with extra grounds.

Lastbuilders
 
Sounds like you've catered for every possibility there. I hadn't considered the effect of the broken vapour barrier before- good thinking on your behalf.
 
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