Floor half tiled, half wooden
- Thread starter Tarquin
- Start date
Tarquin said:
You can and should rip up the old tiles this isn't a difficult job especially if you have a good hammer action drill with a chisel/bolster bit once the tiles are up you can pretty much put down whatever floor you like there are some great high quality lino's available now some really do look like wooden floors however if its durability and easy maintenance you are after then you can't beat a nice looking tile.
Good Luck
Hi Tarquin
What type of wooden floor do you have? The reason for this: is there any reason why the defects cannot be corrected cost effectively? Then replace with tile up to the existing floor? I agree with Dobber22 a nice tlle can't beat lino. First of all for durability and looks, also because it lends to a better resale value for the house in future.
I would not apply lino to a tiled floor. Even though it would have some give a kitchen is a high traffic area. Eventually the depressions where the tile edges meet will show through. This is why I would also not use an underlay as a spacer to bring up the height of the slab to meet the tiled surface. The hardness of the tile as opposed to that of the underlay, with constant traffic, will eventually create an ugly ridge. Then you are back to square one.There is always more than one solution to a problem, it's just a case of finding it.
What type of wooden floor do you have? The reason for this: is there any reason why the defects cannot be corrected cost effectively? Then replace with tile up to the existing floor? I agree with Dobber22 a nice tlle can't beat lino. First of all for durability and looks, also because it lends to a better resale value for the house in future.
I would not apply lino to a tiled floor. Even though it would have some give a kitchen is a high traffic area. Eventually the depressions where the tile edges meet will show through. This is why I would also not use an underlay as a spacer to bring up the height of the slab to meet the tiled surface. The hardness of the tile as opposed to that of the underlay, with constant traffic, will eventually create an ugly ridge. Then you are back to square one.There is always more than one solution to a problem, it's just a case of finding it.
Tiles shouldn't be that difficult to rip up. Dobber mentions using a hammer drill, best bet would be an SDS with rotation stop and a large chisel bit along the lines of [broken link removed] one or [broken link removed].
You may not end up with a perfectly smooth floor after removing the tiles, but you can use levelling compound to get there.
Leo
You may not end up with a perfectly smooth floor after removing the tiles, but you can use levelling compound to get there.
Leo
Hi Tarquin
Sounds like you are going to tile the whole area. As Leo says a percussion SDS drill is advisable. Please wear safety glasses though. Keep the angle as low as possible to reduce damage to the slab. All you want to do is break the bond without reducing the tiles to tiny peices.
Shop around for tiles. Large companies buy their stock in bulk and therefore are able to offer reduced prices. End of range and clearance sales are constntly being offered by these companies.
There are two types of tile, ceramic and porcelain. The latter is more expensive and its substrate is more waterproof. But if the tiles are layed properly a ceramic is just as good. As far as adhesive/thinset I highly recommend the Larsen product range. Their products are very, very good.
Take your time. Look around, get prices,pictures,ideas. Research the internet to get as much gen. as possible. Once your floor is down that's it. Have a look at wood as well, or maybe combining the two. This can be done to good effect.
As regards prices look around as well. Once again don't take the first thing that comes along. Ethically I do not want to comment on what another tradesman charges for his work.
Sounds like you are going to tile the whole area. As Leo says a percussion SDS drill is advisable. Please wear safety glasses though. Keep the angle as low as possible to reduce damage to the slab. All you want to do is break the bond without reducing the tiles to tiny peices.
Shop around for tiles. Large companies buy their stock in bulk and therefore are able to offer reduced prices. End of range and clearance sales are constntly being offered by these companies.
There are two types of tile, ceramic and porcelain. The latter is more expensive and its substrate is more waterproof. But if the tiles are layed properly a ceramic is just as good. As far as adhesive/thinset I highly recommend the Larsen product range. Their products are very, very good.
Take your time. Look around, get prices,pictures,ideas. Research the internet to get as much gen. as possible. Once your floor is down that's it. Have a look at wood as well, or maybe combining the two. This can be done to good effect.
As regards prices look around as well. Once again don't take the first thing that comes along. Ethically I do not want to comment on what another tradesman charges for his work.