Fitting new backboiler stove

J

JakD

Guest
Currently have a internal oil boiler (warmflow 90/120) sealed system heating 10 rads on ground level and 6 upstairs. Hotpress on ground floor. Planning to install a Stanley Reginald with back boiler, which will have an external twin wall flue.
1- One plumber advised running 2 * 1" pipes to the hotpress (one up wall and over, while other underground) to hotpress and joining into a new twin worm cylinder tank.
2-Another plumber advised that this not necessary, and that he could just join into a 3/4" pipe on a radiator in a room just above where we installing the stove. This would be alot less piping, and would not have to replace cylinder. He would also run an pressure valve from the stove outside to allow for any build up of pressure if electricity was off. He foreign and advises this is the system used mainly in Germany/ Poland etc. Both would be replacing sealed system with an expansion tank in attic.

Unsure if both systems are an option?
Is there any advantage/disadvantage of one over the other?
Are there any additional risks/ long term problems in option 2 which is cheapest (less piping/same cylinder)
 
There are a few posts on this site with very good advice on this topic but you should be careful how you fit this boiler. The second piece of advice given to you would not be very sound and should be discarded.
 
Ignore the second guy and go with the first. His proposal is downright dangerous!!
The stove has to be fitted using an open heating system of design.
 
villa 1 said:
Ignore the second guy and go with the first. His proposal is downright dangerous!!
The stove has to be fitted using an open heating system of design.
Click to expand...

I second this. The second guy should be sat by the lit fire after he installs it and everybody else make their way to approx two streets away. This is illegal and a potential bomb! Solid fuel under no circumstance can be fitted into a pressurized sealed system.
 
Thanks for advice.....the second plumber was going to open the sealed system with an expansion tank in the attic, but was just joining directly into the first 3/4 " pipe he found, rather than piping directly with 1" from the stove to a new cylinder (twin core).....he not going to fit a new cylinder..... he has fitted a number of stoves locally on this basis already
 
Maybe you should ask him for references from the other people he has fitted this system for and warn them!
 
Can fully appreciate what prompts this advice but be aware of possible legal implications
 
JakD said:
Thanks for advice.....the second plumber was going to open the sealed system with an expansion tank in the attic
Click to expand...

Apologies, I did not read your initial post correctly. Perhaps we won't hang him out to dry just yet, however, I would still very much ignore the second guy for the many reasons that have been explored in depth in previous threads on AAM.
 
Thanks

Thanks all for advice......will skip him...waiting on the other to revert with price....the stove is the cheap part of the project....its the flue & connecting to the heating system thats costing
 
in relation to the flue, when I was doing one of these the initial quote was for a SS double skinned flue and the quote was for 1,500 for 4m.

The thing that bothered me was the fact that the expected life was quite low: 10 years unless you swept it once a month, didnt slow burn, didnt use damp fuel etc etc.

I went with an isokern lego type flue which has a 60 year g/tee and cost 1200 for 7m
 
You can get the flue in northern Ireland for approx 50 to 60% less. the advise re open system is correct ,,and the flow pipe from stove ( hot water out ) must rise from stove.you could also if affordable consider fitting a larger cylinder to minimise expansion to header tank,,more hot water when stove is in use.
 
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