David_Dublin
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Cousin in England had a house with suspended wood floor, there was a 3' gap underneath. They slung an 'underfloor' a foot or so under the floorboads, of netting, and filled it with what looked like attic insulation. Says it's made a huge difference. First time I'd heard of it, not sure if it's done here.House has suspended timber floors. One option we were consderinf was filling the cavity, cuttong out the joists and pouring a eent floor. This to improve air tightness, amongst other things. Probably no air tightness consideration if doing full EWI, right?
Yep, it's done here alright. Use a membrane rather than a net and airtightness tape around the joints and eliminate drafts when you're at it.First time I'd heard of it, not sure if it's done here.
Did you do it yourself or did you get a company to do it? I'm wondering what a quote for it would be, do you know any companies who'd do it?I have 1-2 foot raised floors. There is a void under the floor. Big step from front to back of the house.
We put ceiling wire in grids and installed rigid kingspan sheets on top of the wire. Installed two layers marine ply, thin layer of ply and then timber flooring in one area and tiled flooring in the remainder. Massive difference with the reduction in heat loss. The air bricks are still there to allow for air flow but the floor is warmer. Better than messy rolled out insulation.
This was completed about 10 years ago and airtight membrane was not really the thing. If we were doing it now than we would include in the refurb but only in the walls. House was in bits when we bought it so stripped back to bare brick and went from there.Interesting, thanks for the input @Gordanus and @Sconeandjam
Am surprised neither used airtight membrane on the warm side when doing what sound like good jobs. Some good info here: https://great-home.co.uk/floor-insulation/
In our 2 rooms with suspended floors and serious drafts I did a hack-job myself with 6mm ply laid on top of the existing floorboards before we put down deep underlay and carpet. Crude but has worked really w
My husband is a Dryling Contractor and does this work for a living. On our next house he would do part air tightness but not the full airtightness as I like the gas heating and cooker. Prices for fitting depend on the part of the country and the insulation prices are going up shortly so do not leave it too late.Did you do it yourself or did you get a company to do it? I'm wondering what a quote for it would be, do you know any companies who'd do it?
You have to work with what you have at the time.Interesting, thanks for the input @Gordanus and @Sconeandjam
Am surprised neither used airtight membrane on the warm side when doing what sound like good jobs. Some good info here: https://great-home.co.uk/floor-insulation/
In our 2 rooms with suspended floors and serious drafts I did a hack-job myself with 6mm ply laid on top of the existing floorboards before we put down deep underlay and carpet. Crude but has worked really well.
That's the first I've heard of this. Would you mind elaborating on this or perhaps sharing a relevant link?Dont forget if you install the full air tightness membrane around the whole house you cannot have a gas cooker or gas heating. So full electric!
I'd have concerns about anyone working in this area who is not aware that all modern gas boilers are room-sealed.Dont forget if you install the full air tightness membrane around the whole house you cannot have a gas cooker or gas heating. So full electric!
Working in a housing estate and they are not allowed to install gas appliances in the property. I think the houses have heat recovery system.I'd have concerns about anyone working in this area who is not aware that all modern gas boilers are room-sealed.
Not allowed to and it's not possible are two very different things. It is absolutely possible to have a room sealed gas boiler in a highly air-tight house.Working in a housing estate and they are not allowed to install gas appliances in the property. I think the houses have heat recovery system.
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