Expat returning to Ireland - Where to live in Dublin?

After over 10 years abroad we are returning to Ireland and will be working in Dublin. We are originally from the country but have lived in Dublin before (South Side). We have no particular ties to any part of the city. We have two children (a boy of 6 and a girl of 4). We plan on renting a house for a year and then buying – in the same area (presuming we like the area).
For both the rental and long-term purchase we want:
- 3/4 bedroom house,
- garden,
- proximity to shops, parks and green spaces very important – “village” feel if possible.
- Choice of a range of good schools v. imp.
- good transport links).
One of us will be working in South City Centre (off Merrion Square) and the other on the north side (off Navan road near Phoenix Park).
Budget for rental will be max €2k per month. Long-term purchase we are looking at around €500k – but could stretch a little.
We had thought Castleknock was a possibility? But we are open to all ideas.

On your budget, for the rental there are lots of options of 3/4 bed houses with good transport links, green space etc.

From my knowledge of friends whose kids are starting schools, it is a very difficult ordeal with lots of the schools significantly over subscribed. It 'may' be easier to get a 6 year old in to a school if you live in the schools catchment area. Different areas have varying demographics so it would probably be best to check out the schools before investing too much time in picking a house.

I am sure that it is not news to you that the property market is a mess. Unfortunately for you, the segment of the market you are looking at is very competitive now with demand outstripping supply. Lots of people with savings a good income looking to find a house for the next 20 years. These people have the same criteria that you have.

Thanks for the suggestion of Maynooth but we would prefer to move to Dublin itself.

Key decider is school. Our approach is to select a few areas that meet our criteria, then approach primary schools in those areas looking for places - for a September 2013 start. Next step will be to find a house to rent.

We are still at the stage of selecting areas - as one of us will be north side and one south city centre we thought to look north and west in the first instance, hence Castleknock - from research traffic and transport links seem to be a problem if heading to city centre.

North side options we are looking at are Drumcondra, Glasnevin and Clontarf. Any advice on ease of access to schools and on commuting from these locations?

I agree C'knock is one good solution. A couple of miles from where one of you is working -so drive or bus no problem, even if traffic is bad. O.K. Merrion Sq bit of a drag but same for anywhere Northside. (Actually C'knock is not "northside" -except geographically. Socially it's nice, safe next to great Park, short drive to B'town S.C.).

Your big problem is the two work locations.....
In that situation I'd go near as possible to city-centre e.g. Ranelagh- you could walk to Merrion Sq on a good day or else the LUAS. No reason to drive.
The Navan Rd person would have to drive but once you get to Christ Church (under two miles away) you'll have an easy drive as you'll be heading away from the city centre during the busy period.
Slight drawback -no big green area or real village feel in which case Sandymount may be another option(nice village feel, no big green area but beach). Quick DART to Merrion Sq, and,again, under two miles to city centre and then out to Navan Rd.

I just had quick look at Daft and am amazed how cheap it is to rent nice houses in quite posh areas.

Maybe a strange thought - look at Phibsboro. If you were both fit and loved walking you could both almost walk to your work locations. Well, almost. Very up-and-coming area and so close to town, Phoenix Park and so many amenities.

celebtastic said:

and the northside is pretty grim.

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What a strange comment....have you ever been to "the northside"?

Roy

Again thanks for the suggestions - Ranelagh and Sandymount would be perfect location wise. But while rentals would be in our budget for both areas, neither would be affordable for the long term part of our plan of house purchase - we want to find one area in Dublin and stay there to minimise disruption to children. Also not sure if finding school places would be easy in either Ranelagh or Sandymount.

Phibsboro could be an option but not the most scenic part of Dublin as I recall.

Being from the country I am completely agnostic on the North / South divide. I lived south side but will consider any area that meets criteria in my first post.

Looking at myhome.ie and daft.ie I must admit I am surprised that house prices are still holding up so well across large swaths of middle class Dublin. Finding a suitable home, near schools and within a reasonable commute work wise is more challenging than I anticipated.

Socially -but not geographically- "the northside" also includes most of Tallaght, much of Clondalkin, Ballyfermot, Crumlin and similar areas.
It does not include C' lontarf, Howth, Sutton.C'knock and similar areas.

I can understand the Liffey dividing south and north-side, but as the terms are used more in a social context I could never understand when I arrived in Dublin, and went house-hunting, why the social division was not more like "East-side" and "West-side".

Incidentally, Random, you express surprise that " house prices are holding up so well in large swathes of Dublin".
Actually, the prices of family houses in many parts of Dublin have increased since their nadir a year ago, most especially in those suburbs that the media constantly refer to as "leafy".

On this website we cannot speculate about future house prices, but we can repeat the fact that the demand for decent family houses is far outweighing the supply in many areas of Dublin.

So, Random -you have to live near me in Dundrum. Quick LUAS to near Merrion Sq and reasonable drive round M.50 to Navan Rd exit. Ten mins drive to great scenery, hill walks -besides all the facilities and schools(free and private)

Hi Random,
Clontarf is nice and has good primary schools. (There is not a huge amount of choice for boys secondary schools though). Rent there for a 3/4 bed house would be between Euro 1700-2500 per month.It has a nice enough village scene, a huge park and the sea.
The downside is that demand for family homes there far outstrips supply and what is on the market attracts a premium. Moreover most of the few houses coming one market are Executor sales and would in general need around 150K upwards and a years work between planning permission and renovation to make them good family homes.
The DARt brings you close to Merion Square and it is an easy run against the traffic out of town to the Navan Rd.
Drumcondra and Glasnevin are also nice but further away from the sea. got the Botanic Gardens. again the same applies re houses, very little good stock and high prices. They have both got good schools. no DART , a train to Pearse St I thnik, but a lot of buses into town, Specially through Drumcondra. I think the 13 bus goes to Merrion Sq and beyond to Clonskeagh.

Castleknock a good choice. Try and get a gaff between Bell pub and Castleknock Phoenix Park entrance. Some house around Myo's pub on that stretch would make sense. That way you get your Village feel but also can cycle on a good road bike down to Phoenix Park / Ashtown in 15 mins no problem..

Also all Arrow services from Castleknock train station stop at Ashtown Train Station and some continue on to Pearse Street Station which is only 10 min walk to Merriom Square.

So all you need is one car for weekends, if that.. (think there's a car rental location in Castleknock)

To check PT options for commuting - I use hittheroad.ie

buses from Castleknock go to Merrion Square - and the tarffic is not that bad! For children, near the park....

Thanks again for replies and suggestions.

I don't know Clontarf but on paper it ticks a lot of boxes for us. However, while renting is feasible, buying the sort of house we want within our budget may not be.

Drumcondra and Glasnevin are options but from online searches there is not a lot of choice and much of what is available would need work. I am also slightly concerned at the proximity of both to less "choice" areas.

Dundrum looks to be slightly more affordable than Clontarf (and a wider choice of properties which require less modernisation than Glasnevin and Drumcondra) but further away from Navan Rd. area (cycling not an option that would be considered by the Navan Rd commuter!)

Random name said:

I don't know Clontarf but on paper it ticks a lot of boxes for us .. Dundrum looks to be slightly more affordable than Clontarf .. but further away from Navan Rd. area

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Access to the City Centre is straightforward for many of the locations mentioned. After that, it's access to the Navan Road area.

From Clontarf, I believe it would be tricky at rush hour. Getting to the M50, whether by Whitehall or Coolock (N32), or direct via the NCR and Phibsboro is busy at peak times. I guess the same would be true for Dundrum and the M50.

If you look a but further out, like Sutton or Portmarnock, you get good transport links to the City, and access to the M50. With 500K looking for a 4 bed semi, you should have a good deal of choice.

celebtastic said:

Maynooth

Good rail links into Dublin, lovely village feel and lots of countryside for the kids

Castleknock is nightmare to drive in and out of, and the northside is pretty grim. The local state secondary is in Cabra.

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I would have thought that most of the estates in Maynooth is pretty grim. Pot calling kettle black at the very least. Quite a good Community College in Castleknock.

try Portmarnock or Malahide - great local schools - easy commute into town DART and buses. Drive Navan road? -easy. 10 mins to M50 then straight run to Blanchardstown turnoff. Lovely village atmosphere in Malahide and great beach at Portmarnock.

Castleknock is nightmare to drive in and out of, and the northside is pretty grim. The local state secondary is in Cabra.

Socially -but not geographically- "the northside" also includes most of Tallaght, much of Clondalkin, Ballyfermot, Crumlin and similar areas.
It does not include C' lontarf, Howth, Sutton.C'knock and similar areas.

Comments like these make me sick. Plain old fashioned snobbery. Disgusting.

Random name said:

Thanks again for replies and suggestions.

Drumcondra and Glasnevin are options but from online searches there is not a lot of choice and much of what is available would need work. I am also slightly concerned at the proximity of both to less "choice" areas.

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Ahh I see the op has the same challenges.....

celebtastic said:

the northside is pretty grim.

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What an idiotic comment.

Castleknock seems like a good location for you,traffic is no worse better than any other part of the city,nice area,close to everything incl the Phoenix Park.Excellent schools.

Castleknock is a nice area. I used to live in Laurel Lodge which near Blanchardstown and close to Castleknock, kind of in between the two. Castleknock Community College is in the same estate, despite the fact that it's a few miles from Castleknock village. The postal address would be Carpenterstown (Laurel Lodge and Carpenterstown and really the same area and are both the other side of the M50 to Castleknock village). The traffic was an absolute nightmare when I lived there. Maybe it’s improved in recent years but it could take a half an hour in the morning to get from the entrance of Laurel Lodge to the Navan road at Castleknock.

By the way, the Bell Pub is in Blanchardstown village. So is Roselawn, but it’s a nice area and the local shopping centre is good, just in case you’re looking in the area.

Dun Laoghaire is a fabulous area with everything for a family. My kids practically spend their summers around Sandycove beach and the forty foot! There's a reasonable supply of houses both rental and for purchase. For commuting you have the DART, and good bus services. Only commute downside is navigating the Blackrock bypass which can be avoided by travelling before/after the morning rush.