Electrical wiring on Table Top Lamp

Larsheen

Registered User
Messages
37
Hi
Hoping someone with electrical know how can help with the following-
Table lamp. On/off switch of the type that is in the socket/bulb holder jammed. New fitting bought. This one has no connection for earth, so connected brown and blue in and re- assembled. No joy. Not working. Replaced amp in 3 pin plug, checked wall socket, switched blue and brown around and checked connection is secure, still no joy! Am I missing something? Only thing left is that newly purchased fitting is faulty?
 
Hi sounds strange. Two wires only required for bulb to light
Earth to metal chassis if reqd.
Are you sure the actual bulb is not blown?
 
Hi fidelcastro, no bulb is good but I had tried another bulb as well. I’ve double checked everything. There were comments on this before it was re-titled and it was suggested that it could be there’s an issue with the cable.
 
Have you checked if the socket itself is working? I know you said you switched blue and brown around and that has sort of worried me. Brown is positive and blue is neutral (I'm fairly sure) In any case, most of these lamps are fairly cheap, not saying yours is, but i'd just buy another one.
 
Hi noproblem
Thanks. I switched them around because they didn’t work the first time and I doubted myself. I then switched them back. There is no indication on the unit as to what goes where, so between that and a memory(maybe dodgy) that with these sockets it doesn’t matter, I just wired it. But you’re right, it could just be a faulty unit, so Woodies here I come
 
There is no indication on the unit as to what goes where, so between that and a memory(maybe dodgy) that with these sockets it doesn’t matter

Correct, it doesn't matter which connection is live/neutral. That's generally just an issue on fused equipment, so that the fuse is on the live side and will cut power to the rest of the device.
 
Correct, it doesn't matter which connection is live/neutral. That's generally just an issue on fused equipment, so that the fuse is on the live side and will cut power to the rest of the device.

I can't be 100% sure in opening post but if there is an on/off switch (which I believe he has said there is ) then it's not best practice to switch the neutral , so a continuity test between the pins of lamp holder and the cable ends while switching the switch will indicate which one is live and which one is neutral.
 

Good point.