Demps, if you're going the timberframe route, I'd advise getting an independant expert (maybe pay a contactor a fee for advice or just approach one with a list of questions) to advise you want to watch out for. There are an awful lot of things to watch out for at the quote stage which have a big impact on the price, e.g.
- soapbar timber or block
- insulation
- sunroom some t/f don't do them
- wet plasterboard
- chimney prefab or block
- windows/blocklayers before or after windows
- raft to floor level
- radon barrier
- support for any corner windows
- screed and door frames
- ceiling heights and door widths 33" i fbuying from north
- barges?
- width of rafters/studs on t/f
- crane hire for t/f
- time delay on t/f
- scaffold hire on t/f buy it not rent
- t/f expert to check t/f independant of t/f company
- make sure t/f allow for stone on walls with soffit
- use breathable felt on roof
- check t/f drawings 10 times for windows, doors etc, far easier to change in factory. your plans were probably drawn up by engineer used to block, t/f gives you more scope.
- specify thick boards for soffit with t/f not plywood
- lots of insulation
- t/f is not cheaper and unless it's a housing estate, it's not quicker either. i'd still go for it for insulation tho'
- our build took 15 months from the day the digging started.
just finished now but there are a lot of things I would have changed if I had known, used Younger Homes from Derry