Dry Line walls or Sand & Cement/ Hardwall

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secman

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We are almost at the interior plastering stage of a new build. We are currently first fixing plumbing and very shortly will be first fixing electrics. We have decided to put additional insulation in by way of battening Low E insulation on inside of all exterior walls. These walls will slabbed with sheets of plasterboard. Our dilema is - should we slab all other interior walls or use the sand cement/ hardwall finish? Interested to hear the pro's and cons for each finish.The obvious ones being dry line hides all pipes & wiring, but difficulty with fixing items to wall. Have you opted for one and regretted it ? I should point out that this will only apply to down stairs as its a Dormer.

Thanks
Secman
 
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Firstly there is no need to batten out any walls for dry lining with insulated boards to external walls, this is not necessary because they can be dot and dabbed using dry wall adhesive far quicker and can also be plumbed if the walls are out. Dry lining with the dot and dab method is faster, cleaner, straighter, warmer, cheaper and there are no hairline cracks to contend with down the line, it warms the room much faster when the heat is switched on to. No problems at all with hanging anything to them as the boards are only a half inch from the wall so regular screws and plugs can be used. Dot and dab dry lining is i.m.o. far better than traditional sand cement renders, there are no problems with wall damage either as is perceived, I have three under 10 that run riot and the only damage to mine are slight dents where the door knobs crash the walls when doors are literally smashed against them at times. Am amazed that dry lining has not taken off in Ireland as in the u.k where it is almost universally used in new build.... and I speak as a plasterer by trade.
 
If you go for dry lined ensure that your plasterer is experienced in dot and dabbing, if he does not then he can easily make a pigs ear of the whole job.
 
Thanks for the replies, will be speaking to a plasterer very soon and will bear your comments in mind. My preference is to dry line.

Yours

Secman
 
legs-akimbo said:
If you go for dry lined ensure that your plasterer is experienced in dot and dabbing, if he does not then he can easily make a pigs ear of the whole job.
Click to expand...
Just wondering what if u could expand on that-I recently had a plasterer do a small dryline job in one room-he appears to have done a good job but had to start by hacking off old plasterboard-which had no insulation-the dust and general mess has put me off a little getting some bedrooms done.
I just wonder on external walls where there are no obstructions-such as windows or radiators-could dryline boards be put directly on to that plasterboard??I realise I would lose a little space but it would be negligible-but any other reason why it should not be done?Cheers
 
Hi pnh, the beauty of dry lining is as long as the substrate is solid then you can dot and dab over anything. i can not understand why you p.boards were removed, if it was stud walling then the boards could have been screwed to the original timbers over the old p.board.
 

Thanks for response.The house is I think fairly typical of those built mid 1970s
where they used what I think is known as breeze block and just plain plasterboard dotted and dabbed inside-with no insulation.So what I wonder is could u just dryline over this existing plasreboard particularly on walls with no obstructions-or would this cause problems with condensation perhaps? The walls are sound=no evidence of damp etc.
I looked at the link which I have seen before and it looks pretty much-like what the guy did here-but oh dear the mess Just trying to avoid a repeat in other rooms
 
How timely is this thread!

Just started removing wallpaper on our house last night so that we can start painting. When we removed the paper we found the underneath was what I now know to be bonding (the reddish stuff).

The rooms are cold and based on the comments above it sounds like we should consider plasterboarding, then skimming then painting.

Would that be a reasonable approach or would:

(1) Skimming over the bonding then painting
or
(2) Putting up some backing paper (think that is the term)then painting on that be a better man for the job.


Would the approach differ for interior walls versus walls that are the inside of exterior facing walls (if you know what I mean!). For example would you just plasterboard the exterior facing wall and just skim the walls separating rooms?

Thanks in advance for any advice!
 
Well U would only have to consider insulating or drylining external walls-it is not necessary on internals.According to Legs-Akimbo u can dryline over anything providing wall is sound-I presume he means no dampness etc.

In my opinion if a wall has window/doors/radiator u have to remove any plaster or plasterboard and get to bare brick.Otherwise window reveals will be deeper and boards will have to be replaced and the rads moved outwards to accomodate the extra thickness.
Internal walls can be skimmed or u could use thick lining paper and paint over that.
 
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