assuming were talking about polyurethane insulation.....
1. have you UFH? if not i dont see the advantage of that construction make up
2. if UFH is installed the new regs (2007) require a u value of 0.15... 100mm MIGHT barely make this.... 120mm (2 x 60) would be better.
3. If you are only at this stage then the extra insulation thickness shouldnt affect your floor to ceiling heights, alter accordingly.
4. are you putting UFH on first floor?
birroc,
Use PU or PIR insulation instead of EPS... much better performance (this is typically Kingspan or Xtratherm)
If theres no UFH then 100mm PU is fine.... i didnt know about the raft, the construction makes sense now.
This should solve your height issue as well..... is the ceiling installed already?? if not id be trying to steal another 100mm from somewhere... 2.5 before floor and ceiling is small enough.... especially with hung light fittings....
birroc,
Use PU or PIR insulation instead of EPS... much better performance (this is typically Kingspan or Xtratherm)
If theres no UFH then 100mm PU is fine.... i didnt know about the raft, the construction makes sense now.
This should solve your height issue as well..... is the ceiling installed already?? if not id be trying to steal another 100mm from somewhere... 2.5 before floor and ceiling is small enough.... especially with hung light fittings....
Don't agree with that at all - besides, which do you mean by EPS -Expanded or Extruded ? There's a world of a difference..........I have extruded everywhere, and my advice is at least 100mm. With UFH I'd have 150 if poss.
Lorna - If you have a cut roof/trusses, then fill the rafter bar the ventilation space under the felt. Whether this gives you 100/125/150 I don't know, without knowing your rafter size. Then, used and insulated plasterboard over that again - with a min of 25mm insulated backing - and if you can, 50mm. You can never have too much insulation under a roof.
One advantage of low ceilings..........there very easy rooms to heat !!
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