I have to say, if you are building in block, that is a very low insulation spec, and wouldn't imho, even meet minimum TGD's these days.........
I also don't think the foundation is up to much, either, but there again, that's imho.
What sort of standard(s)/performance are you aiming for, from the building ?
We're about to start a not-dissimilar bungalow in Co Dublin, and the spec is completely different........
I have to say, if you are building in block, that is a very low insulation spec, and wouldn't imho, even meet minimum TGD's these days.........
I would be very interested in knowing you spec if you didn't mind.
I have to say, if you are building in block, that is a very low insulation spec, and wouldn't imho, even meet minimum TGD's these days.........
I also don't think the foundation is up to much, either, but there again, that's imho.
What sort of standard(s)/performance are you aiming for, from the building ?
We're about to start a not-dissimilar bungalow in Co Dublin, and the spec is completely different........
If mods are o.k. with it, I will.....
Is concrete built not better built?
To be honest I am not very knowledgeable about building but probably ignorantly I thought block was a better bet than timberframe? Longevity etc.
LOL - you've been reading too much of t'internet !Is concrete built not better built?
To be honest I am not very knowledgeable about building but probably ignorantly I thought block was a better bet than timberframe? Longevity etc.
I really appreciate any information about the specification I should be asking for. Even a link to information on good specs would be brilliant.
Our std build model, based on using a lined 130mm panel, will give you a highly airtight structure - without membranes - and a u-value of 0.20. Our thicker panels can give, with appropriate lining (insulated board, for example), of 0.15. The limit is dictated to by your budget, as distinct from the product. In particular, the airtightness properties of our houses, currently under construction/finishing by clients, without any membranes, have been coming in around 1.6/1.03 and even 0.09 m3/hr/m2. And, being solid walls, you can't accidentally damage the airtightness, either (say, with a knife, etc).In the context of providing further detail to this dicsussion, post away.
Leo
BTDT, I know how you feel.Have been searching the web all day and this seems like a viable option?
The more I learn the more I find out I know nothing
you are right, from a structural and longevity point of view, concrete is a great option.
You could look at icf's (insulated concrete forms), google them.
I am now seriously interested in your building procedures, just a few questions. Please excuse if they sound dumb but it would make me a lot more confident and sure.
What are the chances of dry rot or wood worm? None, as ours is a sealed (not a 'closed') panel system, and has only a fraction of timber content of std TF. Remember that dry rot and related issues generally, are not usually the fault of the materials, but rather that of the quality of the installation, and construction details. For example, if one of our houses was flooded, to a depth of 1m, it would have no effect, once the water level went back down. By dint of a solid, sealed wall, with no air passages therein, there is nothing inside it to either contain water, nor, by extension, to dry out.
If a water leak internally is not spotted quickly can it cause major problems structurally? Water services are fittied in the exact same manner as a conventional house, through provided service areas, so the short answer is that your leak will be spotted just as quickly as in any other build. And, like the previous comment, there is no reason, erected properly, that it should affect the house structurally.
Can I hang pictures/brackets etc on internal walls (ie are they strong enough)? Our walls, by being a completely solid, laminated, timber-faced system, are actually stronger. You can put in a screw, anywhere. You can hang heavy items such as your kitchen units and your stairs - at ANY position - and all without using any wall plugs/toggles/ etc etc No more loose curtain rails or blinds, either.........
Sound proofing issues? Our walls have been acoustically tested and are, in general quieter than both timber frame AND conventional build.
What is the fire risk (is it greater than concrete built)? Our walls have to (and must, by law) meet the same standards as all other types of build.
Wood tends to move when heated or cooled can this cause cracks? This can happen in conventional timber frame, especially if using native (i.e. Irish) timber, as the system is nailed together.....as wood dries over time, nails can sometimes get loose. Our system does neither, and all our junctions are screw joints - not nailed. Screws don't 'relax' over time.
More inviting for mice? No, there is no void in our product for them to get into, and the insulation will not support.....life !
Is the possibilities of mold on wood is higher than on concrete? Be aware that there are two types of 'mold' - that from the surface, and that from within. Surface mould is usually caused by high levels of humidity and poor ventilation, and can be found in any type of house build. Some surface mould is caused by cold surfaces, which may indicate a heat loss path (cold bridge), and this is more a feature of concrete construction than any wood one. Again, this is a non-issue in our product, as it is a sealed, solid, laminated wall. There is ZERO interstitial condensation in our product, at any time of the year, in our climate. This is what our product has been tested and accredited to. Block and timber frame, on the other hand.........can have this problem, as they can have an interstitial condensation point.
Do the treatments on the timber have a lifespan before they are not as effective? Treatments ? Please elaborate......
How much is timberframe cheaper than concrete in general? Timber as a material, is not cheaper, per m3, it is more expensive. What you need to do is to calculate your entire build, and see what the overall difference is. Our product, by a recent calculation of a local builder here, over the entire house (including foundations and to bring it to finish level), came out at +1.4% over 'conventional'.
I am sure that these issues have all been resolved and I probably have been misinformed by the Concrete camp!
Thank you again for all your help.
Can anybody tell me the difference between a closed TF house and a SIP house. Are there advantages of one over the other?
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