Petal said:Hi guys, I'm thinking of damp-proofing an old end of terrace council house. I'm considering the following options.
Injecting a damp course into the outside walls
Electroosmotic system (Lectros)
Think they cost about the same to do. Has anyone got any experiences with either or anything else and can recommend same?
Many thanks.
Hi guys, I'm thinking of damp-proofing an old end of terrace council house. I'm considering the following options.
Injecting a damp course into the outside walls
Electroosmotic system (Lectros)
Think they cost about the same to do. Has anyone got any experiences with either or anything else and can recommend same?
Famously, Mike Parrett of Lewisham Council in London has investigated over 5000 buildings and has never found a sign of rising damp. In every case, damp was attributable to something else. Investigative journalist Jeff Howell comments 'if you invite a damp-proofing company to inspect your home for dampness problems, you should not be surprised if they "discover" its existence. That's how they make a living'. He also identifies the meters usually used to test for dampness as inaccurate. To accurately test for moisture, you have to do a drill test but this is more time consuming and costly.
Sueellen, now you at least know what one of them is!!!
Could I suggest that you get a chartered surveyor in to advise? No disrespect to any of the companies involved or mentioned on here, but if you want independent advise, then go to someone who is just that, independent....I think I'll get the two damp companies out to advise...
Whilst not casting aspersions at Bankrupt's take on this, I find that Jeff Howell's article is a load of unmitigated bull. Presumably he was looking for publicity for his column/book. As a plasterer with over 35 years of experience, I've been doing damproofing and tanking for about 25 years. Now damp penetrates three ways: up, down or sideways. Downwards is generally caused by roof defects, leaking pipes, condensation (interstitial or otherwise), guttering problems etc. Lateral penetration is generally caused by retaining walls, cracked plaster/brickwork/blockwork, thickness of render, lack of waterproof chemical in the plaster etc. (Lets not go into hydraulic lime mixes - that's for another day). And finally rising damp. How else can this knowledgeable fellow from The Sunday Telegraph explain that most of the 'perceived' dampness (such as peeling paint/wallpaper, rust stains on nail tops in skirting, creepie crawlies, efflorescence, spalling of bricks/blocks etc) takes place in the bottom metre of the walls. And here I'm talking about houses that have a DPM under the floor. Why did the Victorians put rows of slate about the same height as we now put DPC. To keep the spirits in the underworld?I was considering the same for my house but did a bit of research and came to the conclusion that neither is necessary. Here's a link with some ideas (might not be applicable to your situation but food for thought nonetheless):
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Whilst not casting aspersions at Bankrupt's take on this, I find that Jeff Howell's article is a load of unmitigated bull. Presumably he was looking for publicity for his column/book. As a plasterer with over 35 years of experience, I've been doing damproofing and tanking for about 25 years. Now damp penetrates three ways: up, down or sideways. Downwards is generally caused by roof defects, leaking pipes, condensation (interstitial or otherwise), guttering problems etc. Lateral penetration is generally caused by retaining walls, cracked plaster/brickwork/blockwork, thickness of render, lack of waterproof chemical in the plaster etc. (Lets not go into hydraulic lime mixes - that's for another day). And finally rising damp. How else can this knowledgeable fellow from The Sunday Telegraph explain that most of the 'perceived' dampness (such as peeling paint/wallpaper, rust stains on nail tops in skirting, creepie crawlies, efflorescence, spalling of bricks/blocks etc) takes place in the bottom metre of the walls. And here I'm talking about houses that have a DPM under the floor. Why did the Victorians put rows of slate about the same height as we now put DPC. To keep the spirits in the underworld?
I use a dampmeter ...... tho' after years of experience anyone can have a very good shot at sizing up the situation. In all that time, I've had one callback! Which I was able to rectify in little over an hour. In olden times they used imporous stones at the bottom of walls. Aesthetics? Hardly so!
Finally, I'd advise the OP to get a reputable damp company to sort the problem. 25/30 years guarantee is the norm. I'm sure if there were lots of follow-up problems the insurers would pull the plug on this very valuable service.
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