Cutting skirting boards

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scuby

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Sorry if this has already been asked, feel free to move it or point me in the right direction !
I have 6 inch moulded skirting boards that i need to put into 2 rooms. I'm just wondering what is the best way to cut these to fit them to the walls.

I have a mitre saw that will cut the angles at 45 degrees. The only problem is that the bottom of the skirting( part nearest the floor when fitted) is wider than the top, and when i go to cut the skirting it's not really linnning up properly in the corners of the room.

Or if anyone near cork city could do it for me i would be very grateful !
cheers
scuby
 
Hi Scuby
Internal corners should really be scribed and not mitred- mitres will open up anyway as the timber shrinks when drying out. External corners are always mitred. I'm sure someone else may be able to post a link to a website that will give you instructions/ pics on how to accurately scribe an internal corner and you could try [broken link removed]. You'll need a mitre square, coping saw and a tenon or panel saw to do this. Basically you mitre the end of the board you wish to scribe, rub a pencil on the sawn profile to highlight the edge and then cut to this edge (at right angles) with the coping saw (for the curved profile) and the panel saw (for the straight section). A picture paints a thousand words- it's difficult to describe how to scribe in words alone! For a really good, tight fit the back edge of the scribed cut should be slightly undercut. On a well cut scribed joint it can be difficult to tell which board has been scribed.
 
cheers carpenter
will give it a "bash"...
you will have to start up you own diy boards with all the help you give on a daily basis.
If you charged you could nearly retire at this stage ! cheers again

scuby
 
Or alternatively for internal corners and skirting boards with decorative profiles, mitre cut the profile bit and butt joint the remaining straight piece - much easier than trying to cut out a complex profile. See here for some diagrams.
 
Nice suggestion, commonly used on simpler bull nose profiles (where a scribed profile would be weak and tend to break off when fitting). I'd still opt for the scribed joint though- it can be adjusted a little for fit and closes up good and tight. A mitred joint fits or doesn't fit- it's difficult to adjust an internal mitre.
 
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