Cuba for independent travellers - any advice?

Sophia2457

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Hi all

Myself and husband hope to go to Cuba for 2 weeks in March 2007. We like to travel independentlu - book flights and accommodatiomn on the net and have had some great holidays this way. We're just not package people!
Anyway, Cuba is presenting a challenge - it seems that is either all-inclusive hotels (not for us) or 'casa particulares' where you lodge with a Cuban family. That could be a possibility but we like our privacy and it would be a leap in the dark.

We also prefer apartments to hotels and I haven't been able to locate any. We'd like to spend a week in Havana and a week in a beach resort (don't like the sound of Varadero - they say it could be anywhere in the world).

So any and all advice or experience would be very welcome,
Thanks!
 
Getting it from the library today! Why buy when you can get it for free :)

Anyone have any experience of Cuba or tips they could share with me?

Thanks
 
Try some of the travel forums on the internet for advice on where to stay/what to do in Cuba ... you'll probably come across people who have been in a similar situation as yourselves as these forums are usually mainly used by independent travellers looking for advice/opinions etc.

Good forums to visit include travellerspoint.com; thorntree-lonelyplanet.com; tripadvisor.com ...
 
Hey,

I would be the same usually regarding not doing package deals but when we went to Cuba we went package - there just didnt seem to be any such thing as apartments etc for rent. It really does seem to be the 2 extremes.

Perhaps you could do a bit of both - book a couple of nights hotel accomodation for when you arrive & then go from there.
 
you could try http://www.hostelworld.com/ most of the accommodation is graded and it is good for non standard accommodation

While this site is handy to track down hostels, I wouldn't recommend it to actually book anything. Rooms may not be as described, the grading is sometimes way off and bookings have been known to go missing in the system. Once this company take their cut they don't provide any customer support whatsoever should there be any problems. I know this from experience and also from discussions with others who had very bad stories to tell about their experiences using this site.
IMHO if you see a place that you want to book, you're best off to go directly to the hotel/hostel in question. You'll be in a better position to get the best price (ask if there's a discount for booking 3 or more days), have more guarantees that the booking is correct and won't lose any money should you find out that the place is not up to standard.
 
When you arrive in cuba you will be asked to show proof of your first three nights accomodation. You can get away with out having anything booked if you speak good spanish and have a few addresses of places you are going to check out but otherwise they will make you book it there and then before you leave the airport (at least that is the way it was back in 2001) So, get at least a few night's organised in havana before you arrive. You can do this by calling some places if you speak spanish or by booking over the internet but you will probably be charged a premium. We stayed in the Lido hotel which was very basic but did the job. It was about $26 each per night back in 2001.

All accomodation is owned by the government so you can't rent an apartment but you can stay in a casa particular which vary in price from about $15 - $40, check out a few and negotiate a price if you dont want to spend that much. We found some really nice ones and they will cook an evening meal for you for an extra charge but we found the food to be really nice and to be honest alot better than you will find out on the street in a random cafe.

Do try to get to Vinales and Pinar del Rio, hire scooters and check out the murals at Dos Hermanas but dont bother with the cuevas, they arent worth the entrace fee. Pop into some of the tobacco farms and take a look at how they dry the tobacco leaves (with the permission of the owner of course). We stayed in Dona Hildas casa particular which was lovely.

As for the beach, Veradero is supposed to be just like any resort anywhere in the world as you say, we didnt go there but we did go to a beach just outside havana where the cubans go, cant recall the name (it might be called Vadado) but it was awful. The beach was ok but the place was a dump and there were alot of young men hanging around which we found really intimidating. We couldnt wait to get out of there. We went down south to Maria del Gorda (?) which took us ages and alot of money. Its very quiet but an expensive resort.

On your way back to the airport, if you have alot of luggage get an official government taxi. They are the only ones allowed into the airport. All the rest of them will let you out at the access road and you'll have to walk a good 10 mins dragging your bags up to the airport.

Enjoy!
 
Wow, thanks for the great info - particularly bleary and homeowner.
Had no idea about the accomodation booking to be shown at airport or the official govt taxis only being allowed into airport.

looks like we're stuck with a package then as being slightly older (ahem) I don't fancy hostels and while in my younger days I loved landing somewhere and picking up accommodation, I kinda like my little comforts now.
Though it does gall me that all the hotels outside Havana seem to be all-inclusive, I wouldn't eat in the same hotel every night so we'd be paying for dinners not eaten, same with lunches and we're not big drinkers.

Anyway, if we have to do a package, can anyone recommend a decent travel agent who actually listen to what we want? I can't find anywhere that doesn't only do Havana/Varadero - surely it's possible to do Havana/somewhere more interesting?

Checked out tripadvisor but no luck there - very focussed on hotels in Varadero and travellerspoint was mainly a very young crowd - I wish!!!

Thanks again
 
Whats the story with getting a visa. Do you get one on the plane or do you need to buy one before you go?
 
I went to Cuba 2 years ago on holiday and I would recommend it to anybody.

The first thing is if you go to a travel agent you will probably be lumped with an all exclusive holiday in somewhere like Varodero which while is quite lovely you will not see the real Cuba and you may as well be in the Canary Islands. Do a bit of research, use Lonely Planet, use Google and you will not be long making up your own itinerary.

We stayed in Havavna for the first three nights and it was the case 2 years ago (and probably still is) that you had to have the first 3 nights booked for immigration. We hired a car for 7 days and toured around Vinales, Trinidad, Matanzas and unfortunately Varadero for one night (Stay away from Varadero!!!) and then returned to Havana for the last couple of days. If you want to see the whole island you will need 2 weeks on the road (outside your time in Havana).

Plan on staying 3/4 days in Havana minimum as it is really worth seeing; a lot of old architecture and loads of museums. Another must is Vinales out in the west; at least 2 days - scenary is stunning and Trindad in the south middle of the island; at least 2 days also.

A few downisdes though, food is pretty poor in general throughout the island even at the resorts. In the main tourist spots, particulary Havana and Trinidad, there is a big problem with begging. The roads are not in a great condition and are quite poorly sign-posted; don't let that put you off hiring a car; just allow plenty of time to get from A to B. If you are finding it difficult to find your way somewhere, pick up hitch-hikers (perfectly safe and a way of life in Cuba) and they are always eager to help show the way and are glad to get a lift at the same time.

Avoid in July-October; the summer is far too hot and is also the peak season when most expensive. Also August-October is prone to hurricannes. We went at the begiining of May and even then it was fairly hot.

We flew with Air France who where excellent; alternatively fly with Iberia who from what I hear are not really that good.

You need to obtain a tourist card before departure; there is a Cuban consulate just off Adelaide Road in Dublin (exact address on Dept of Foreign Affairs website) who will provide this; I went along in person and they processed it immediately (I am not sure if you need to attend in person) you will need to bring airline tickets for this. You can fill in your accommodation address at a later stage. It cost €22 two years ago. I think that you can get the tourist card from travel agents either but I am not sure.
 
Thanks redchariot! Great info.

Did you stay in hotels when you were there or casa particulares? Any hotels you can recommend?

I don't know if we're brave enough to hire a car - never have done abroad and we're not the best navigators at home, so divorce could be on the cards trying to manage abroad!! Esp as the roads and signs aren't good.

A friend of mine told me you can get internal flights in Cuba - anyone have any experience? That way we might at least go to Havana, one other location, then back to Havana - and maybe a few bus trips in between to get the favour.

I wont be going next or near Varadero :)

Will keep slogging away..do Air France fly direct? Seems we'll spend nearly two days either end just travelling there, so maybe a fortnight just isn't long enough.
Cheers
 
Sorry Sophia2457 for only replying now, I was away

You should seriously consider hiring a car; it is really the best way of seeing the country. I know they drive on the wrong side of the road with a left hand drive but you get used to it very quickly. Also there is very little traffic on the roads with the exception of Havana which even still is a doddle in comparison to somewhere like Dublin. Don't worry about getting lost too much, with a decent map you should be ok and there are those ever helpful hitch-hikers who show you the way if you are stuck; it is really safe to pick them up. Just also allow plenty of time to get from place to place.

You can fly to different parts of the island using Cubana a local airline but as we never took internal flights, it is not something I really have any information on, sorry. I have hear that taking the bus or train is a bad idea as they are often delayed/cancelled and also take hours.

Another option, but I don't know if it would be your cup of tea, is to join a group tour e.g. with GAP who I travelled with in Peru earlier this year; they are fantastic. I put their website below so you could look up possible trips. You still have to organise your own flights to/from Cuba but all the rest is organised for you. You can also organise extra nights in Havana before/after the tour. I would consider taking up this option if you are not willing to hire a car.



There are also other companies like Exodus and Explore who I believe are also quite good and they organise flights also (from Heathrow though) if you wish.

Now hotels vary a lot in standard and I would not expect much in Havana unless you are willing to pay big bucks for a place like the Hotel Nacional or Hotel Seville. We stayed in the Hotel Caribbean for the first 3 days which, putting it nicely, was a hole. When we returned for the last couple of days before flying home we stayed in the Hotel Linclon which was much better (but not anywhere near luxury). You can get nicer places just outside the city but you really want to stay in the city centre close to all the attractions. However once you get out of Havana to other parts of Cuba, the standard improves immensely and are less expensive.

One hotel I really would recommend if you are staying in Vinales (an area which you should really go to) is the Hotel La Ermita which is on a hill overlooking the valley; fantastic views.

If you are going in March, you will be fine turning up at hotels looking for accommodation without booking ahead as it will be off-peak season. But remember to book your first 3 nights as Immigration may want to see proof and I have heard of them organising accommodation for people who didn't pre-book for a hefty mark-up fee.

You connect in Paris with Air France and unfortunately it does take the whole day to get to Cuba (10 hours from Paris to Havana) but that is part and parcel of transatlantic travel. We booked on the Air France website and you don't get any better deals through ebookers etc. (we tried). I was looking at the website, depending on your date of travel costs €675 to €715. You can get flights with Iberia via Madrid for €692 but as I said before I have heard that they are a pretty poor airline.
 
theres a very good health system in cuba
even george galloway is impressed
and presumably very reasonable
also medicenes
i like the thought of staying with a family
very musical and can dance
enjoy
 
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