Cost of building a house

E

EM CO CLARE

Guest
We are building a house in Co Clare and we are looking for a contrator to price our plan. We have got our planning. The house we are looking to build is a 4 bedroom story and a half and it is roughly 2590 sq ft. Can anyone help. We havn't a clue about cost?

Thanks
 
RE: Tender Drawings

Hi EM CO CLARE,

Have you got a set of Tender Drawings form your Architect / Arch. tech. / Engineer & a bill of quantities for a Quantity Surveyor? If not I suggest you do so.

You will need the above in order to get an accurate price from building contractors; otherwise it will be extremely difficult to compare quotations, as you will be unsure what each as priced.
 
It is impossible to give you any clear idea of costs as every house if different and the costs of every house will differ greatly.

If your looking for a simple ballpark you would need to be looking at about €195,000 for the actual build, based on a very simple specification and then you will need to add for the finishes, kitchens, wardrobes, floor finishes, external pavings, paths etc etc.

As stated the only way to know what YOUR build will cost is to have it costed based on a detailed specification. A bill of quantities is a very good investment as it allows a like with like comparision of prices.

For clarity I am a quantity surveyor but it is a very good document if used properly.
 
I am in a similar position. The drawings are currently being revised by the architect prior to planning. Will probably be approx 1500 square feet on the ground floor plus conservatory plus attic which will have a stairs but wont be completed initially. Block wall, rectangular house with a small porch to take away the bare look. Own site.

Intend doing kitchen, sitting room, one ensuite bedroom and bathroom for now. Not many frills. Washing machine etc will be installed in utility but presses and units can wait. Structure will be block wall and possibly be 300mm pumped cavity. Spray insulation in the attic. Heating system undecided.

What rough ballpark figure am I looking at. Would I get that much done for less than 100K direct labour?
 
How long is that piece of string?

You can spend 3-60k on a kitchen alone. I also doubt if 300pumped cavity meets buildings regs but your architect will advise. Also if you are budgeting 100,000 thats really only 88k when you take off for the vat man and i dont see you finishing much of a new build property for that value
 
Why would 300mm pumped cavity not meet the building regs? Have been advised that its far better than a 150mm pumped cavity and insulated plasterboard inside.

By the way the the Kitchen would be closer to the 3K range rather than the 60K range
 
quadrangle said:
Why would 300mm pumped cavity not meet the building regs? Have been advised that its far better than a 150mm pumped cavity and insulated plasterboard inside.
Click to expand...


Apologies I had assumed you meant a 300mm wide cavity wall with a pumped cavity (100mm)
 
Those days are well gone!!!! 300mm pumped. The greatest investment my house will have. Will opt for double glazed windows, I remain unconvinced that triple glazed are currently providing the justification for the extra investment. May change them in the future as window technology improves. It will never be possible to change the cavity insulation though, so I will do it right now.

Basically I am looking at the following.

Bungalow with Sunroom and converted attic
One Bedroom and Ensuite finished
Bathroom finished
Kitchen, Utility and Sitting Room finished. Cash and Carry Kitchen.
Will probably tile Kitchen, Hall, Sittingroom(off Kitchen) and Utility using same tile
Pine Stairs fitted to Attic.
Pine Doors

Rooms like the second sitting room, Additional Bedrooms and Office will not be touched.
 
I'm a little confused by the double glazing, when your all for a 500mm cavity wall (keep kk happy:))
quadrangle said:
Will opt for double glazed windows, I remain unconvinced that triple glazed are currently providing the justification for the extra investment.
Click to expand...
what will the overall U-value of the double glazed units be? ill presume 1.2wm2k
will the internal surface temp be high enough to avoid condensation forming on them? I doubt it.
is the extra cost of triple not worth it to get from an overall of circa 1.2w/m2k to circa 0.8w/m2k? ie thats 1/3 more efficient.

think of it like this: your going for 0.1 walls at 300mm insulation. but will have circa 1.2 windows at double thats 12 times worse. even when considering the area/size difference does it not seem worth while to improve the windows?
perhaps taking the walls to 250mm ins to balance costs?
May change them in the future as window technology improves. It will never be possible to change the cavity insulation though, so I will do it right now.
Click to expand...
agreed
Basically I am looking at the following.

Bungalow with Sunroom and converted attic
One Bedroom and Ensuite finished
Bathroom finished
Kitchen, Utility and Sitting Room finished. Cash and Carry Kitchen.
Will probably tile Kitchen, Hall, Sittingroom(off Kitchen) and Utility using same tile
Pine Stairs fitted to Attic.
Pine Doors

Rooms like the second sitting room, Additional Bedrooms and Office will not be touched.
Click to expand...
are you building under the 2011 part L building regs?
have you carried out a provisional BER?
what is your ventilation strategy?
what is your air-tightness strategy?
will your designer be preparing thermal bridge free details?
has your designer considered solar orientation?
has a phpp calc been considered?
 
Architect/Designer is look after all designs and solar orientation has been taken into account, albeit restricted by the site. As I face the house from the road the living areas will be to the right, with the bedrooms to the left. Kitchen is at the back, and the sunroom will come off that. Back of the house faces east, right side faces south and the front faces the west.

Opting for 500mm walls because its my one and only chance to do it. 2011 regs I assume. Will not reduce that in to 450mm to balance costs. If that is done it could never be undone. The curtains would in any event be closed on the windows for the majority of the time that its cold, and that is an influencing factor in my decision. I am unconvinced from talking to others that have installed double glazing that the price difference for triple glazing is unjustifiable, and its better to save now, and perhaps spend as newer window technology comes down the line. There is also the factor that triple glazed will restrict incoming heat from the sun. I do accept that I have supersonic insulation in the walls, and moderate insulation in the windows but such is life.

As regards thermal bridges, I will be discussing it with him. Will not be installing an air ventilation system. His views are that given the natural door and window opening and closing that its not worth the investment in my case. BER will be worked on
 
OK
(a) 1600 sq ft bungalow

(b) Double glazed

(c) 250mm wide cavity pumped. Anything wider goes beyond the point of diminishing returns.

(d) Four rooms to be finished. Everything else builders finish.

1.Kitchen - Cash and Carry Kitchen.
2.Bathroom - Basic Sanitary Ware. Budget Tile
3.Living Room - Carpet and Stove
4.Bedroom - Budget Carpet or Laminate Flooring. Basic Sanitary Ware in Ensuite. Budget Tile

Hall and Utility tiled with Kitchen tile. Utility presses not done. Budget stairs to attic but this may be held off.

Air to Water heatpump with Underfloor heating. Stove with back boiler in living room. Biocycle treatment system needed. Site is level so site works are not excessive.

Rough Estimate? No rush to finish. Will save and finish over a 10 year period. Room by Room.
 
Im not going to guesstimate an answer to the cost question (sorry), but i will take the liberty to harp on a bit about the triple glazing:
The primary advantage of triple glazing is that it will be a few degrees warmer on the inner face than double glazing. This has a considerable effect on the comfort in a room (esp if you plan to hang around near largish areas of glazing) and could well mean that you feel happy to turn down your heating by a notch, as opposed to up by a notch when you feel the 'shiver' effect of being near a cold surface.

On the heating, you are mixing a constant low heat source (heat pump) with a sudden high heat source (stove). Please make sure that everyone (architect, plumber, yourself) is clear how these two sources will work together in order to maximise efficiency.

www.studioplustwo.com
 
lowCO2design said:
+1
have you heard of these guys
Click to expand...

The poster might have heard of them (ie quantity surveyors) if the SCSI decided to ever do any advertising of the services and offerings that their members provide...... there are very few people who have ever heard of quantity surveyors as a result.... rant over

and sorry for disclosure yes I am one and yes you should certainly speak to one in your locality to get a handle on costs
 
Unfortunately any professionals I have spoken to have indicated that triple glazing shuts out a higher proportion of passive solar gain. Put it like this, the curtains are closed by night which forms a semi barrier to heat loss anyway. I would prefer to gain by day all year around, and take my chances in winter time with double glazed. Maybe some day we will have modern technology that allows for non-return glass that lets heat in, but prevents heat from leaving!!!

I will put an external double door between the kitchen and the sunroom. I have seen a sunroom extension added outside an external double doors, and the external doors were retained and it shuts out any cold that the glassy sunroom might absorb on a frosty night

threebedsemi said:
Im not going to guesstimate an answer to the cost question (sorry), but i will take the liberty to harp on a bit about the triple glazing:
The primary advantage of triple glazing is that it will be a few degrees warmer on the inner face than double glazing. This has a considerable effect on the comfort in a room (esp if you plan to hang around near largish areas of glazing) and could well mean that you feel happy to turn down your heating by a notch, as opposed to up by a notch when you feel the 'shiver' effect of being near a cold surface.

On the heating, you are mixing a constant low heat source (heat pump) with a sudden high heat source (stove). Please make sure that everyone (architect, plumber, yourself) is clear how these two sources will work together in order to maximise efficiency.

www.studioplustwo.com
Click to expand...
 
I have a builder friend. He openly admits that it costs more to get him to do a house and have it put through the books than to get it done through direct labour, nixers and cash.

He knows he is not getting my job, but has strong views on nixers, cash etc. However he is still kind enough to recommend getting a mortgage for some of the build and a credit union loan for some, thereby giving me access to cash. Cash is king. As he says something costing a grand going through the books might only cost 500 in cash.

lowCO2design said:
+1
have you heard of these guys or you get your architect to prepare tender drawings & a scope of work and go ask several builders for an accurate quote?
Click to expand...
 
Cash may well be king, especially for someone who might not be around 6 months after the build finishes if you need something attended to.

Money through anyones books goes to pay for - apart from VAT, Employers PRSI, PAYE etc- insurances and the like. If the guy to whom you pay cash falls off your roof, well, he is unlikely to be using that cash to pay for the several types of insurance that contractors or subbies should have to protect themselves, and you.

I'm not sure how 'kind' this advice is, or who it is being kind to.

www.studioplustwo.com
 
The two most important bits to get right in Irish housing is proper insulation and proper heating. Many fail on those basics. No point having a top of the range bathroom if it's full of damp and freezing. As is the way with many houses that were built in the last 10 years. Recently I saw a house with no extractor over the hob, and no extractor in the understairs loo, and the builder actually 'forgot' to put a toilet in the ensuite.
 
quadrangle said:
Unfortunately any professionals I have spoken to have indicated that triple glazing shuts out a higher proportion of passive solar gain. Put it like this, the curtains are closed by night which forms a semi barrier to heat loss anyway. I would prefer to gain by day all year around, and take my chances in winter time with double glazed.
Click to expand...
your 'professionals' are not explaining this very well!!

  • 3g is easily 1/3 more effective at keeping the heat in (2g maybe 1.2w/m2k V 3g 0.8w/m2k)
  • 3g will keep the internal surface temp above the due point - people tend to complain about condensation on the outside- waht a great comlpaint to have!).
  • yes there is typically 10%(ish) less solar infiltration with 3g but the maths, phpp calcs i have seen show that the U-vlaue of 3g out ways the solar gains of 2g
 
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