If I were you I would hold off doing this until I fully understood if and why the energy consumption is high. Maybe consider a heat loss survey to find any easy wins on the heat loss side of the equation.Thinking of getting 20 panels sth facing and a 10kw battery to somewhat mitigate the heatpump costs.
This might have something to do with it too. I would advise that you educate yourself. Google 'heat geek'. UK based but they give some really good pointers.I dont understand it or its setting.
We were initially going down a one-stop shop route for external installation, solar and a few other things. Initial price to us before grants was €65k for what we were doing. Walked away from it in the end and went with local suppliers instead. A number of reasons for thatVery interesting topic above, any further info on the subject?
I have 20 year old double glazed windows but the house has had the cavity walls pumped and attic insulated.
Debating about the one stop shop upgrade for about €30k (excludes windows but includes a new front and back door) and wondering will I still save money. Sounds like I will if system sized correctly. I am also going for Solar PV with a 5-10kw battery. Thanks.
11,000 is total consumption mainly driven by heatpump and size of house.
There will be a heating curve set on the heatpump which basically tells it that for outside temperature of X it should send water into your heating system of temperature Y. The curve is adjustable though and would have been set at installation time such that your house feels comfortable.My understanding is that it runs based on outaide temp not inside - does that sound right? And if so - why would heat loss in house be relevant? Because its going to run regardless based on outside temp?
That value dates from 2017 when the CRU reduced it from 5,300 at a time when there were far fewer heat pumps in the mix. The average household also consumed 11,000kWh of gas or oil at the time. Those figures were derived from real usage data at the time, and house size was not a factor. As yours is twice to three times the average size, it's unlikely you will ever see average consumption.We use about 11,000 kwh per annum. National avg is about 4,500 i think. House is 275 sq metres.
This ^^^^ Couldn't have said it better myselfThere will be a heating curve set on the heatpump which basically tells it that for outside temperature of X it should send water into your heating system of temperature Y. The curve is adjustable though and would have been set at installation time such that your house feels comfortable.
If you were to reduce the heat loss of your house through improved airtightness etc, you could then adjust the heatpump heating curve to send slightly cooler water to the house and still end up with your house being as comfortable. Small changes to the heatpump curve can have really big impacts on the cost to run the heatpump because they become less efficient the hotter water you ask for it to send.
Your fridge is a heat pump except it works in reverse. What would you think would happen to your fridge's power consumption if the fridge door was left permanently slightly open? Excessive heat loss in a house is akin to leaving the fridge door open.The heatpump is always running in background. My understanding is that it runs based on outaide temp not inside - does that sound right? And if so - why would heat loss in house be relevant? Because its going to run regardless based on outside temp?
I would expect the SCOP of an optimised GSHP to be far better than 3.5 though so there may be some opportunity for meaningful improvement on both the HP efficiency side as well as on the heat loss side of the equation.At a SCOP of 3.5
as @Zenith63 noted above the outside temp dictates the temp it is heating the water too to heat your house. It will stop running once the temp you have set on your internal stat is reached.@Micks'r what about my understanding though, that the HP runs based on outside temp. If this is true then wont the heatpump run regardless of indoor temp i.e itll run based on outside temp?
Yes and if you were to improve the insulation or air tightness of your house and didn’t adjust the heatpump you’d find the house too warm and your heating bills would be the same. So instead you would reconfigure the heatpump to send a little less heat to the house because it is no longer required, and that’s how you’d see your cost come down.@Micks'r what about my understanding though, that the HP runs based on outside temp. If this is true then wont the heatpump run regardless of indoor temp i.e itll run based on outside temp?
And you need to do this for both cold and mild weather to optimise to two points on the curveIt sounds like i should keep gradually lower the curve until house isnt comfortable, then notch it back up to comfortable, and then thats the optimal point.
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