1. Research.
The most single important consideration is your choice of vehicle itself. Consider “what do I want”? and consider “what do I need”? There are so many factors….
Size. What do you carry and how often?
Body shape. Saloon, hatchback, estate, mpv, suv, coupe, convertible?
Running costs. What’s my annual mileage? Petrol, diesel, hybrid? Insurance, fuel consumption, servicing and other repairs/renewals, depreciation/retained values, & road tax all need to be considered.
How important are style, performance, status, and exclusivity to you? How much are you prepared to pay for that?
Do I want to buy locally, or perhaps import? Dealer or private? Maybe even at auction?
Whittle down to a short list of max. 5 contenders. Check out those models reviews online. www.parkers.co.uk and www.honestjohn.co.uk are normally good.
Establish a budget. Do you need to borrow? If so shop around. See what years/mileages your budget will stretch to in those selected models. Print off the “best” potential cars of each model. Be thorough. Know your target vehicles, and know what they are worth in advance. Knowledge at this point will help you greatly later on. Beware of scams. If a car sounds too good to be true chances are it is. Irish cars abroad, and requests to transfer funds prior to viewing using escrow or Western Union should sound alarm bells.
2. Contact the sellers.
Ring them. Do not ever haggle on the phone. You’ll know from your research roughly what the car is worth in any event. Listen to what they say, and if you’re happy, arrange to go and see the car. Keep your options open, and do this for a few cars. If it’s a private seller expect a lower asking price, but also remember your consumer rights may well be less than with a dealer. Caveat Emptor always.
3. Viewing.
If you are a bit green, bring somebody who has better knowledge of cars with you. Never view a car at night, and try and avoid a wet day (you will not be able to see paint imperfections). Feel the bonnet – you need to see the car started from cold. With a private seller it’s recommended to view the car at their home.
Look at the car. Walk around it. Are the panels straight? Are panel and door gaps consistent? Are all panels exactly the same colour? Are all the lights, bumpers, and glass in good (uncracked) condition? Is the car clean? (if not why not?)
Check the operation of all the doors, windows, bonnet and boot. Are the tyres all the same size? Same make? Check for wheel damage – kerbing etc. Check the spare wheel, and jack/tools.
Look in the car. Are all the keys there? Is the VLC/NCT & other documentation present? Look at these and also the service book and supporting invoices. Be wary of any car without service history. They are more likely be clocked. Are the steering wheel itself, pedal rubbers, and gearstick shiny? This may suggest high mileage. Check the road tax is in date.
Sit in all the seats. Any sagging, rips, tears, stains or cigarette burns? Check all the seatbelts work.
Check everything works. Radio, cd, lights, indicators, aircon (if fitted), heated rear window, all the electrics.
If it’s all in order, and you have no concerns, and are still happy with the seller, it’s time to go for a test drive. If not, just walk away.
4. Test drive.
Ensure you have valid insurance. This could be a temporary transfer of your own policy, or 3rd party extension, or open driving.
I’d advise get the seller drive initially. See what their driving style is.
Be outside the car when the engine is started. Listen for any rumbles, knocks, or tappety sounds. What’s coming out the exhaust? Blue or black smoke is bad news. A bit of white is ok – water vapour.
Sitting inside listen carefully as the car moves off. You can establish suspension, braking, gearbox, clutch, and engine issues with your ears alone. The car should be smooth and quiet.
Take the wheel yourself. Is the steering balanced? At low speed and with nobody behind check the brakes work, and that the car pulls up in a straight line.
Keep a beady eye on engine temperature and oil pressure gauges (if fitted).
Get a feel for the car. If you’ve driven a similar make/model beforehand (recommended) you’ll know how the car should drive and feel, and if this one is any different.
5. Regroup.
If you’ve driven a few cars, you’ll probably have a favourite at this stage. If any of the cars had issues, or needed work done I’d advise you dismiss them from consideration. You are paying good money and are entitled to a sound car. Do any of the cars have major servicing within a short period of time? Timing belt replacement can be expensive for example. Having considered all this….
6. Contact the seller again.
Go for a 2nd viewing, and bring a mechanic with you ideally, or organise an inspection.
7. Striking a deal.
Armed hopefully with a good report from the inspection, and happy with the car/seller overall, it’s time to deal. Look at the asking price. Is it reasonable? Is it high or low compared to other similar cars? If it’s high there’s more room for discounting. Say to seller “I’m interested if we can agree a price”. Do not offer anything at this stage. Ask “what would you take for it”? Let the seller move his position first. Introduce other car(s) if the price isn’t right, and back this up with printed evidence. Offer slightly less than you want to pay. Take quiet control of the negotiations. Be nice though, but be aware if the gap between you is too big, it’ll be impossible to bridge. If that’s the case you’ll have to walk away.
Do not pay more than your valuation of the car.
If it’s a dealer use warranty, road tax, servicing, valet, to close any gap. “At that price I’d need 6 month warranty, new mats, a valet, and a full service”.
If you are close in price tell the seller you are a cash customer (you have everything ready right?) and can close the deal within a day. Go for it!
8. Paperwork.
Check the car over again. Is everything as they said it would be? If so pay for the car. Ensure the completed VLC is sent to Shannon. Happy motoring.
The most single important consideration is your choice of vehicle itself. Consider “what do I want”? and consider “what do I need”? There are so many factors….
Size. What do you carry and how often?
Body shape. Saloon, hatchback, estate, mpv, suv, coupe, convertible?
Running costs. What’s my annual mileage? Petrol, diesel, hybrid? Insurance, fuel consumption, servicing and other repairs/renewals, depreciation/retained values, & road tax all need to be considered.
How important are style, performance, status, and exclusivity to you? How much are you prepared to pay for that?
Do I want to buy locally, or perhaps import? Dealer or private? Maybe even at auction?
Whittle down to a short list of max. 5 contenders. Check out those models reviews online. www.parkers.co.uk and www.honestjohn.co.uk are normally good.
Establish a budget. Do you need to borrow? If so shop around. See what years/mileages your budget will stretch to in those selected models. Print off the “best” potential cars of each model. Be thorough. Know your target vehicles, and know what they are worth in advance. Knowledge at this point will help you greatly later on. Beware of scams. If a car sounds too good to be true chances are it is. Irish cars abroad, and requests to transfer funds prior to viewing using escrow or Western Union should sound alarm bells.
2. Contact the sellers.
Ring them. Do not ever haggle on the phone. You’ll know from your research roughly what the car is worth in any event. Listen to what they say, and if you’re happy, arrange to go and see the car. Keep your options open, and do this for a few cars. If it’s a private seller expect a lower asking price, but also remember your consumer rights may well be less than with a dealer. Caveat Emptor always.
3. Viewing.
If you are a bit green, bring somebody who has better knowledge of cars with you. Never view a car at night, and try and avoid a wet day (you will not be able to see paint imperfections). Feel the bonnet – you need to see the car started from cold. With a private seller it’s recommended to view the car at their home.
Look at the car. Walk around it. Are the panels straight? Are panel and door gaps consistent? Are all panels exactly the same colour? Are all the lights, bumpers, and glass in good (uncracked) condition? Is the car clean? (if not why not?)
Check the operation of all the doors, windows, bonnet and boot. Are the tyres all the same size? Same make? Check for wheel damage – kerbing etc. Check the spare wheel, and jack/tools.
Look in the car. Are all the keys there? Is the VLC/NCT & other documentation present? Look at these and also the service book and supporting invoices. Be wary of any car without service history. They are more likely be clocked. Are the steering wheel itself, pedal rubbers, and gearstick shiny? This may suggest high mileage. Check the road tax is in date.
Sit in all the seats. Any sagging, rips, tears, stains or cigarette burns? Check all the seatbelts work.
Check everything works. Radio, cd, lights, indicators, aircon (if fitted), heated rear window, all the electrics.
If it’s all in order, and you have no concerns, and are still happy with the seller, it’s time to go for a test drive. If not, just walk away.
4. Test drive.
Ensure you have valid insurance. This could be a temporary transfer of your own policy, or 3rd party extension, or open driving.
I’d advise get the seller drive initially. See what their driving style is.
Be outside the car when the engine is started. Listen for any rumbles, knocks, or tappety sounds. What’s coming out the exhaust? Blue or black smoke is bad news. A bit of white is ok – water vapour.
Sitting inside listen carefully as the car moves off. You can establish suspension, braking, gearbox, clutch, and engine issues with your ears alone. The car should be smooth and quiet.
Take the wheel yourself. Is the steering balanced? At low speed and with nobody behind check the brakes work, and that the car pulls up in a straight line.
Keep a beady eye on engine temperature and oil pressure gauges (if fitted).
Get a feel for the car. If you’ve driven a similar make/model beforehand (recommended) you’ll know how the car should drive and feel, and if this one is any different.
5. Regroup.
If you’ve driven a few cars, you’ll probably have a favourite at this stage. If any of the cars had issues, or needed work done I’d advise you dismiss them from consideration. You are paying good money and are entitled to a sound car. Do any of the cars have major servicing within a short period of time? Timing belt replacement can be expensive for example. Having considered all this….
6. Contact the seller again.
Go for a 2nd viewing, and bring a mechanic with you ideally, or organise an inspection.
7. Striking a deal.
Armed hopefully with a good report from the inspection, and happy with the car/seller overall, it’s time to deal. Look at the asking price. Is it reasonable? Is it high or low compared to other similar cars? If it’s high there’s more room for discounting. Say to seller “I’m interested if we can agree a price”. Do not offer anything at this stage. Ask “what would you take for it”? Let the seller move his position first. Introduce other car(s) if the price isn’t right, and back this up with printed evidence. Offer slightly less than you want to pay. Take quiet control of the negotiations. Be nice though, but be aware if the gap between you is too big, it’ll be impossible to bridge. If that’s the case you’ll have to walk away.
Do not pay more than your valuation of the car.
If it’s a dealer use warranty, road tax, servicing, valet, to close any gap. “At that price I’d need 6 month warranty, new mats, a valet, and a full service”.
If you are close in price tell the seller you are a cash customer (you have everything ready right?) and can close the deal within a day. Go for it!
8. Paperwork.
Check the car over again. Is everything as they said it would be? If so pay for the car. Ensure the completed VLC is sent to Shannon. Happy motoring.
