# Roofing: Low pitched roofs - what are the options?



## Dinarius (17 Apr 2009)

We're planning an extension that will have a roof with an 18 degree pitch.

At the moment we are considering two roofing solutions:

1. Pre-coloured VM Zinc in Pigmento Green - really gorgeous colour for a garden extension roof. See here>

http://www.vmzinc.ie/build-zinc-systems/surface-appearances-5-preweathered-2.html

2. Small tiles such as these>

http://www.monier.co.uk/products/pr...ct-range/product/mockbond-mini-stonewold.html

Scroll down to "Colour Range: Through Coloured" and click on "Mockbond Mini Stonewold. Tudor Brown 36". A beautiful tile. The seam running through the middle makes it look half the size it is, which is what we would want.

a. What are the pros and cons of zinc (or copper, though that's unlikely to be our choice) versus tiles?

b. Any other tile/slate options that we could consider?

c. How safe are we in the Irish climate going the tile route?

d. Anything else I should be considering?

Thanks.

D.


----------



## Slates (17 Apr 2009)

Dinarius said:


> We're planning an extension that will have a roof with an 18 degree pitch.
> 
> At the moment we are considering two roofing solutions:
> 
> ...


 
A, Metal roofs are alot more expensive

B, Tegral do a low pitch roof slates called Melboure (as do all the slate suppliers in Ireland)

C, Safe as houses with the right product

D, Redesign if you are very worried


----------



## Dinarius (17 Apr 2009)

Thanks for that.

For those that might be interested the Tegral Melbourn spec can be viewed here>

[broken link removed]

Given that it doesn't appear to be available in any colour other than slate grey, that would rule it out for us.

On the issue of cost, yes it seems that a zinc roof would have to be sub-contracted to a metal roof specialist, whereas the tile roof could be fitted by our general contractor. For this reason, we are more likely to go with a tile/slate option.

Any other comments appreciated.

Thanks.

D.


----------



## mick1960 (17 Apr 2009)

With tiles ,18 Degrees might be a bit to shallow of a pitch
on the roof.Check with the manufacturer.


----------



## mick1960 (17 Apr 2009)

Just checked the spec for your tiles you they can do 17.5 Degrees need more of a lap and more fixings.


----------



## Dinarius (17 Apr 2009)

mick1960 said:


> Just checked the spec for your tiles you they can do 17.5 Degrees need more of a lap and more fixings.



Yes, they quote 17.5 degrees with 100mm lap>

http://www.monier.co.uk/products/pr...ct-range/product/mockbond-mini-stonewold.html

Just wondering, is it possible to increase the lap even more (e.g. to 125mm) and get even more protection? Or does the lap have to be 75mm or 100mm only, as per the spec above? If this were possible, it would have the added bonus of making the tiles appear smaller which I would like. The cost of a few extra tiles wouldn't be a problem.

Thanks.

D.


----------



## mick1960 (17 Apr 2009)

A 100mm is probably the max.The best way to explain I can explain is that tiles have a to lap in relation to their length.If you were to  over lap them by more than that, they will not sit flat on the leading edge (the foremost edge of a tile when you look at a roof) .You could see what i mean by using 4 cd covers on a table top arranged with various  laps (ignore the first lowest cd/tile). Hope this helps, also if you go off the specs and there was a problem with the tiles in the future you would have no come back with any one,for the ovious reasons.


----------



## Dinarius (20 Apr 2009)

mick1960 said:


> A 100mm is probably the max.The best way to explain I can explain is that tiles have a to lap in relation to their length.If you were to  over lap them by more than that, they will not sit flat on the leading edge (the foremost edge of a tile when you look at a roof) .You could see what i mean by using 4 cd covers on a table top arranged with various  laps (ignore the first lowest cd/tile). Hope this helps, also if you go off the specs and there was a problem with the tiles in the future you would have no come back with any one,for the ovious reasons.



Makes sense.

Thanks.

D.


----------



## Moneypit (20 Apr 2009)

Another option for you might be to use Nordman roof sheeting.  We used this on a previous house extension due to low pitch and found it fine.
[broken link removed]


----------



## Dinarius (20 Apr 2009)

Thanks for the suggestion.

I like the olive green option, but I want to get away from the tile look, which is why I prefer the flatter profile of the stonewold or the zinc.

D.


----------



## decodiva (29 Oct 2009)

hi ,
we just about to start an extension with a zinc roof n i would love to hear how you got on with your roof?cost of zinc versus slate?any drawbacks so far?
thanks


----------



## iamniamh (30 Oct 2009)

We used a pvc membrane as an alternate to zinc, its heat sealed as opposed to torch on, looks good, is grey in colour with matching metal edging and can be done in a standing seam detail like zinc....at fraction of cost. 

If you're moving away from zinc it's worth a thought as opposed to going to slate. A change to slate / tiled roofs can mean adding fascia boards too and changing the character of the extension. By the way, we used Briggs Roofing and Cladding, they're in Dublin and Cork.


----------



## galwaytt (3 Nov 2009)

A company called Metseam from N.I. just finished putting on a standing seam copper-colour metal roof on structure we put up, in Galway.    I have to say, I like the green myself !

No connection, they worked for the client, direct.


----------



## caspermoo (3 Nov 2009)

iamniamh said:


> We used a pvc membrane as an alternate to zinc, its heat sealed as opposed to torch on, looks good, is grey in colour with matching metal edging and can be done in a standing seam detail like zinc....at fraction of cost.


 
We've just started a kitchen extension and had plans drawn by an architect for a flat roof with a pvc membrane on it. What way are the gutters done with this roof? On the profile drawing he's given us, the gutters seem to be invisible at the roofline, you can only see the downpipe and I've seen similar type roofs in magazines and they're the same. I just can't imagine where the water goes? I'm nervous of the flat roof although the architect was adamant about it being the best option for us due to the height of the upstairs windows.

Also, did you choose the light or dark grey colour?


----------



## iamniamh (12 Nov 2009)

Depends on the design of the flat roof. Sometimes they are formed in the roof itself and lined in metal, or they may be fixed onto the wall and just under the edge of the roof. If you're architect is involved in the construction stage don't worry about it or else ask for a detail

I wouldn't worry about flat roofs eithers. It's all progressed from the uninsulated torch on roof. In general, flat roofs are laid to a fall so that the rain comes off the roof, even if the roof is completely flat then the membrane can be laid to ensure the rain comes off. The principal is to make sure rain does not pool.

.......and we went for the light grey.


----------



## Keganovich (7 Jan 2010)

Hi Iamniamh, you mentioned that you used a pvc membrane as an alternate to zinc on your roof.....at fraction of cost.  Please can you give me a rough idea of the cost per square meter for the PVC memebrane roof and who you purchased from.  Thanks...


----------

