# Stanley Erin Boiler Stove with Outside Air Kit



## BMD (13 Nov 2011)

Hi,

Has anyone had an experience using the OSA kits on the Stanley Erin stoves. I have two stanleys with OSA kits (a tara and an erin). The tara stove is working well but I have a few problems with the damper on the erin (i.e., the stove isn't getting enough air).

Any advice appreciated


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## Shane007 (14 Nov 2011)

If it is not getting enough air, then OSA is either under-sized or incorrectly installed, more likely to be the latter. Location of the outside terminal must be factored as this can be affected by turbulance, roofs, etc. Check the manufacturer's instructions for the correct location as this must be followed at all times.


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## BMD (14 Nov 2011)

The OSA kit is the same size as recommended by stanley and is installed as per their instructions. As per Stanley instructions, there are two air inlet locations (via a T connector) so to negate turbulence effects etc.

Even with the OSA disconnect from the damper (i.e., stove getting air from the room instead of the stove), the fire still smothers which suggests the OSA is not the problem


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## Shane007 (14 Nov 2011)

If the fire still smothers then it is 100% an air issue. No two ways about it. If all is actually installed as per MI, then you need to have Stanley inspect the installation and confirm this.

Remember a flame requires 3 basic elements to burn; fuel, ignition and oxygen. Take away any of the 3 elements and you do not have a flame.


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## PatC (14 Nov 2011)

Are you sure your damper is open on the back of the Erin. It has a sprung damper on it. Is it controlled by a bar on the side? Maybe you have another air outlet at the front for a airwash for door glass. Ensure this is open and check if you have the proper draw. Check your baffle inside the fire chamber is fitted correctly which is important for proper draw also. If none of this works and you have your OSA kit disconnected -as in drawing air from the room- and still have problems you will have to start looking at the chimney. If it is back entry for the flue the horizontal should not be more than six inches, which is hard enough to achieve in my own experience. The tee if it is a retro fit should run ideally either North-South or East-West but this is not your problem if you are experiencing difficultly with it disconnected. Hope it sorts itself for you.


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## BMD (15 Nov 2011)

On the new model the damper is controlled from a knob at the top (connected to the damper via a rod) and yes it is opening although there isn't much of a gap  when it opens (I guess that is just the way they designed it).

Regarding the baffle, I spoke with Stanley and they suggested removing the baffle plate but this hasn't helped (i.e., the fire still smothers).

The fire works when I open the bottom door and the airwash, but within minutes of the bottom door closing it smothers. Obviously it can't get sufficient air but why I don't know (the damper is fully open).

The connection to the chimney flue is from the top so again this is difficult to explain.


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## PatC (15 Nov 2011)

It seems to be the draw in the chimney. I dont know if it is a new previously unused chimney or a stainless one. You will have to eliminate a birds nest etc.. and make sure it it unrestricted. Also check that it rises above the ridge of the house a bit. A neighbour had a chimney that he had to extend 6 ft before to get better draw. Alot to do with wind direction and orientation of chimney. It was trial and error with him. Good luck with it.


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## BMD (21 Nov 2011)

I re-installed the baffle and it is working perfectly....thanks for all the advice


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## onq (21 Nov 2011)

Thanks for the feedback, BMD.

Its only with feedback like this that a knowledge base can be built up 


ONQ

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