# Experience with Quinn Lite Aircrete blocks and Quinn Therm Polyisocyanurate nsulation



## Mike_C (19 Jan 2006)

Has anyone had any experience with quinn lite aircrete blocks and quinn therm polyisocyanurate insulation



I would like to build my home with a low U value with high thermal storage. Having looked into poroton blocks which are extremely expensive 16K for block work on a standard 2000sq feet bungalow. Are these a good alternative?  The website appears to promise that a u-value of less than "0.27w/m2/k or better is achievable" I am currently awaiting a quote


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## Lak (19 Jan 2006)

Theese are a standard block in the U.K on all new builds, though not so popular in Ireland. They are nigh on impossible to plaster using traditional sand and cement, though are perfect for dot and dab drylining.
If you really want to beef up the insulation then use the Quinlite in conjunction with insulation backed plasterboard on all external walls (internally) and regular 9.5 or 12mm plasterboard if you were to use them internally (Quinlites)


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## Touch Wood (19 Jan 2006)

Sand and Cement will seal up these Aircrete blocks and stop them breathing which is one the things that make them attractive.
They have a slightly higher U-value than the Poroton block but the new Poroton with the Pumise in the cavities is higher again.
In Mainland Europe where they are very popular they recommend to insulate them externally with a breathable Rockwool bats and plaster onto the Rockwool.
Polyisocyanurate or polyeurethene backed plasterboard is not breathable and and are not allowed inside the houses in Scandinavia because of the offgassing of chemicals.
A lot of the moisture that builds up inside a house that is not breathable goes into the plasterboard and can go no further causing mould build up etc,.


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## Sherman (20 Jan 2006)

> send them the cash and they will send you back a load of blocks


 
????

I'd rather make a small deposit or pay on delivery...


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## Lucret (20 Jan 2006)

If you are going with a concrete floor at the 1st floor level then you could use quinn light blocks on their edge for the internal wall in the outer cavity wall and use a regular block for the external cavity wall.  You could leave a 150mm cavity if ok'd with your structural engineer.  If you then pumped this cavity and     Ideally you should use the thin joint method of construction.  Quinn lite blocks would help reduce thermal bridging where the cavity is closed (around opes and at the top).  Quinn lite blocks would also reduce cold bridging to earth.  Quinn do foundation blocks that make footings quickly done.  Line internally for a great u value.


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## Touch Wood (20 Jan 2006)

Sherman said:
			
		

> ????
> 
> I'd rather make a small deposit or pay on delivery...


 
Do you pay cash on delivery for your floor tiles? No.
Do you get your floor tiles delivered by paying a small deposit?  No.
Many tile stores have a 2-3 week lead time while they import your tiles, meanwhile they have recieved full payment from you.


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## Lucret (20 Jan 2006)

Can you reference regulations stating: Polyisocyanurate or polyeurethene backed plasterboard is not breathable and and are not allowed inside the houses in Scandinavia because of the offgassing of chemicals.


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## z102 (20 Jan 2006)

To Touch Wood concerning Poroton: Pumice is not the same as perlite , the new poroton blocks are filled with perlite. Pumice would drop out without a (temperature transporting ) cement binder. So they use the more expensive perlite.
And Ytong -if it has be - is also made in the Netherlands, Belgium, France. Propably in GB as well. The shorter transport would make them "greener" and maybe cheaper as well. Never send cash abroad, use a bank transaction or a local sales man to do your business. Or a cheque if it has to be. The building trade is full of criminals. And the post is not always reliable.


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## Touch Wood (21 Jan 2006)

Point taken about perlite Heinbloed. But Ytong is cheaper in Poland.

To answer Lucret, buy 6 sheets of Polystyrene/polyeurethene, make yourself a box sealing the corners with foam and get inside, how long can you stick it before breaking down the boards?
I will send you the reference sites but have no time now


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## Mike_C (22 Jan 2006)

Hi Thanks for the replies, Touch wood is there anyone in Ireland currently building with Ytong blocks, it would be good to see them in action.


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## Lucret (24 Jan 2006)

Are there any safe insulation backed platerboards with insulation e.g. neopor that don't of gas?


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## z102 (24 Jan 2006)

In principle insulation has to go on the outside of a building. Why do you want to use plasterboard insulation on the inside?


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## delboy159 (25 Jan 2006)

Seeing as the motivation for this thread is attaining high insulation, has anyone heard of Beko blocks (or derivatives of) which are put together like lego (with a hollow in the middle) and then concrete is poured into the hollow.  Seemingly very high insulation and build time is quick.  Also, built to last.

Anyone looked into these?


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## Touch Wood (25 Jan 2006)

Hi Delboy

My


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## ajapale (25 Jan 2006)

*Re: Experience with Quinn Lite Aircrete blocks and Quinn Therm Polyisocyanurate nsula*

Hi Touchwood,

I have noticed your attempt to post over the last while. Can I ask you to leave the bum posts in situ unedited until we can investigate?

Feel free to post your reply now.

Thanks,

aj


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## Touch Wood (27 Jan 2006)

Hi Delboy
My Opinion on the above mentioned system is that neither Polysterene or Concrete are kind to the envoirnment.
Polysterene offgasses into the building.
This system is non breathable and could lead to mould at the Dew Point in the middle of the wall where the hot meets the cold.
U-value should be fine but I wouldn't expect the system to hold onto much heat when you turn off the heating as Polysterene has a low specific heat capacity/density.


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## Touch Wood (27 Jan 2006)

The combination of Aircrete/Ytong and external insulation of granitewool/woodfibreboard is at the other end of the scale, has a very high density, and a decrement delay of 12 hours or more.
This means it lets the midday heat into the house at midnight and you get little variation in heat levels between day and night, about 2-3 degrees.
Concrete lets out its heat in a couple of hours and polysterene is about the same.
Concrete is also a cold material and has chemicals added to make it go off quickly and these are offgassed into the living area.

The combination of Aircrete/Ytong and external insulation of granitewool/woodfibreboard is at the other end of the scale, has a very high density, and a decrement delay of 12 hours or more.
This means it lets the midday heat into the house at midnight and you get little variation in heat levels between day and night, about 2-3 degrees.


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## Touch Wood (27 Jan 2006)

Concrete is also a cold material and has chemicals added to make it go off quickly and these are offgassed into the living area.


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## Touch Wood (27 Jan 2006)

12


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## Musk (29 Dec 2008)

*Re: Experience with Quinn Lite Aircrete blocks and Quinn Therm Polyisocyanurate nsula*

These quinn lite blocks appear an interesting alternative.
Anybody on here actually used them?If so what experience have you had with them?
Would most builders be willing to use them and if they are would they need to have a previous experience with them or are they prety much the same to lay as standard cavity blocks?
I have read that they are more difficult to plaster for example and you have to use a different type of mortar with them.
Anybody know if they add much to cost of house?


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