# Driveway advice : Best surface option? Cobblelock, gravel, tarmac, concrete?



## terrysgirl33

Hi!  Partly for our own enjoyment, and partly to make our house more attractive when selling, I'm considering enlarging our driveway.  The house is an ordinary three bed semi, 7 years old.  The front is half brick, half painted and there's a six foot brick wall to one side of the driveway.  The front garden is open plan.  The reason for doing the driveway is to enlarge it so that three cars can park in the front (currently plenty of room for two, one in front of the other) and to give more room at the side of the car for getting children in and out.

What is the best surface option?  Cobblelock, gravel, tarmac, concrete???  What are the advantages and disadvantages of each?  DH is convinced that cobblelock is out because it develops 'dents' under where the wheels of the car are parked, and it would be full of puddles and weeds, so what is the most suitable surface for car parking?

Would it be worth getting the front garden landscaped?  It's very plain, just grass with shrubs in the end (put in by the builder) so it could look a lot better, and I'm wondering if it would be better to get it laid out so that we get enough paved space where we need it (I'm afraid of planning the job ourselves and finding the shape we chose doesn't work)


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## brian.mobile

*Re: Driveway advice*

A mon avis, it wouldnt be worth getting it  done unless it was a fancy paved job. Done correctly it will make your home feel like the entrance to a palace.

Concrete is eek. Tarmac is eeker. Stones are messy.

BM


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## DonKing

*Re: Driveway advice*

I got cobble lock put in 4/5 years ago. I hate it! It gets dirty too easy. It's sunken in places and weeds are always sprotting up.

If I was going to do it again (which I may do soon) I think I'd go for the concrete with a pattern type. A neighbour has it with a portion of the garden left for shrubs etc. It's painted black and always looks clean and neat. I think it suits a small/medium suburban garden. I have heard that they can be slippy.

If you do go for cobble lock etc. make sure that there is sufficient hardcore laid to withstand the weight of cars.


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## brian.mobile

*Re: Driveway advice*



			
				DonKing said:
			
		

> If you do go for cobble lock etc. make sure that there is sufficient hardcore laid to withstand the weight of cars.


 
Have to agree with you on this. I had a fella in to do some paving. hes spent more time on the 'blinding' as he did on the paving.

It's a perfect job...

BM


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## lala41

*Re: Driveway advice*

Yes,

Agree, I think paving looks expensive, always preferred brick paving myself, getting the base right is the secret though 

[broken link removed]


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## Deirdra

*Re: Driveway advice*

Confirming what people said above - the secret is making sure there is enough strong hardcore as the foundation.


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## Sue Ellen

*Re: Driveway advice*

Have a look at www.pavingexpert.com for some general info.

If you are going to do such a major job just to increase the sale price of your house then I think you will be wasting your time and causing yourself a lot of inconvenience. I really can't see it making much difference.

We have cobblelock and it is too high maintenance. I have also heard people complain of cracking on the imprint concrete stuff. So there's no easy option. Perhaps good old borin' plain concrete is yer man?


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## lala41

*Re: Driveway advice*



			
				sueellen said:
			
		

> Have a look at www.pavingexpert.com for some general info.
> 
> If you are going to do such a major job just to increase the sale price of your house then I think you will be wasting your time and causing yourself a lot of inconvenience. I really can't see it making much difference.
> 
> We have cobblelock and it is too high maintenance. I have also heard people complain of cracking on the imprint concrete stuff. So there's no easy option. Perhaps good old borin' plain concrete is yer man?


 
Yes, if your just selling it on then no, its not cheap, but if you want to make it look nice and make good use of it I would recommend, and it does improve the value to a property, well, it did in UK, all I can say, people like to see nice driveways, clean, showing how much potential it has for parking areas, only my opinion, but when a house is advertised, for sale, it does look nice too, as also, its the first thing you usually see when you enter a property, kerb appeal known as, first impressions


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## demoivre

*Re: Driveway advice*

i have paving on the drive and around the house and am very happy with it. As others have said good preperation is essential to stop it sinking and  to ensure the surface water flows in to the gulleys. I spray it for weeds with roundup twice a year and have no probs. Regardless of whether you have paving, tarmac or concrete you will still have to give it the odd sweep to keep it tidy.


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## terrysgirl33

*Re: Driveway advice*

Thanks to everyone who took the time to reply!!

To clear things up, we are considering expanding the driveway anyway as it's just a little too narrow.  I want to do it in a way that is both a good surface to park a car on, and looks well.  I'm not doing it 'just' to increase the value of the house, but don't want to depreciate the house either!!!  I amn't keen on concrete, but DH is convinced it's the only surface that can take cars on it in the long term.  Is there a way of doing concrete so that it looks well?  I've seen the 'painted' concrete and it looked OK).  It looked shiny, but seemed OK to walk on, I haven't driven on it.

The concrete driveway at the moment looks fine, it's just a straight up driveway, but I'm not sure it would look good with a wide expanse of concrete at the front.

Is it possible to get cobble lock laid 'properly' so that it doesn't sink?  In the concrete we currently have you have to spray for weeds regularly, I don't have a problem doing that.  I think cobblelock looks better myself, but there's no point doing it if it will sink.

BTW, I don't like gravel myself, but I was reading the property supplement in the Irish Times on Jan 19th (I think) and they had a list of 10 things to do to enhance the value of your home, and they recommended gravel instead of cobble lock, which seemed strange to me?????

We aren't going to do anything about the house soon, I'm really looking for opinions as to what would enhance/ detract from the house, or for that matter make no difference!!!


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## terrysgirl33

*Re: Driveway advice*

To reply to specific advice!

Brian Mobile, I think that concrete is eek too!  I think it would make our house harder to sell, as well as irritating me every time I looked at it, BUT DH thinks it's better (so I guess this post is more of a rant than anything!!).

Donking, was the problem that the cobble lock wasn't laid properly?  Or is it a problem with cobble lock it'self??  I would plan on just spraying any weeds, so I'm not too worried about them...


Sueellen, as I'm trying to make clear (not my strongest point ) I wouldn't do it to increase the value of the house.  But if we are doing it anyway, I want to do it in a way that doesn't put people off the house, should we sell in the future.  Personally, I don't like concrete and would be put off a house that had a concrete yard out front, but then again maybe it would be fine if done well?? What maintenence do you find that you drive needs? I'd rather hear about it now than after the job is done !!!


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## demoivre

*Re: Driveway advice*

Sueellen is right in that there is no easy option and paving does take maintenance but badly prepared ground won't save you if you put down tarmac or concrete on top of it - it will crack  and break up. You can definitely get paving that doesn't sink - we have over 700 sq. metres of it with two cars in and out on it every day plus the postman, oil and coal delivery trucks drive in on it, visitors etc. and we have had no probs. over the last seven or eight years.


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## DonKing

*Re: Driveway advice*

I didn't pay too close attention to the depth of hardcore laid at the time and considering the guy turned out to be a chancer I would say that yes my problem is with the foundations rather than the cobble lock.

I also chose a tan coloured brick which I think may show up dirt a little easy. So perhaps a darker red would be better


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## lala41

*Re: Driveway advice*



			
				DonKing said:
			
		

> I didn't pay too close attention to the depth of hardcore laid at the time and considering the guy turned out to be a chancer I would say that yes my problem is with the foundations rather than the cobble lock.
> 
> I also chose a tan coloured brick which I think may show up dirt a little easy. So perhaps a darker red would be better


 
Yes,

There is a wrong way and the correct way of getting the base correct, advisable to have at least 4-6 inches of hardcore laid, with crushed limestone, and the compacted sand, wacked down hard with a wacker plate first  before laying any paving, the trouble with a lot of people, they dont realise the cost of the correct equipment thats involved in these jobs to get the right result, can cost a good tradesman thousands.


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## Sue Ellen

*Re: Driveway advice*

Hi Terrysgirl33,

"What maintenence do you find that you drive needs? I'd rather hear about it now than after the job is done !!!"

Initially I was very pleased with the cobblelock as IMHO it added value to the house. You need to be very careful who you get to lay it because as we all know there are many chancers out there doing driveways at the moment. However, after a few years the bricks get very dirty looking and it becomes quite hard to see the actual colour of the brick. We probably got about 5 years out of the driveway before it needed cleaning.

Last summer we bought a high pressure water cleaner from Argos and spent many hours cleaning it. It is a long and boring job and unfortunately generally removes a lot of the sand between the bricks. We haven't got around to replacing this and will probably in due course pay a price for this i.e. weeds appearing between the bricks.

Don't forget it is an expensive job to start with probably costing a few thousand at least.

Besides having a good read of www.pavingexpert.com you should also probably have a read of these previous threads on AAM and they might give you some further guidance.

Any other queries just shout.  

Sueellen.


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## lala41

*Re: Driveway advice*

Hi sueellen

You can buy some kilm sand from the builders merchants( burnt sand) to replace the joints again, use a large brush to sweep it into the joints, but only do this on a dry day, we also use PATH CLEAR, for our brick paving, kills weeds and is not harmful to wildlife, that lasts for up too 6 months, before any re-appearance of weeds.


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## Sue Ellen

*Re: Driveway advice*

Hi lala,

Thanks for the advice. I see in this thread that someone is recommending silica sand? I have also read elsewhere on AAM that the sand works out quite expensive? We have it front and back covering quite a large area so it would also probably be a back breaking job?


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## lala41

*Re: Driveway advice*

[broken link removed] 
Hi Sueellen

Yes, it takes a bit of time, but it works the same, in that it seals when its exposed to moisture it swells up, but you have to put it in when it’s a dry day, if you have a very large area, probably best to hire someone, you know of etc, but once we get to Ireland, if you ever want any free advice, please don’t hesitate to ask, this picture shows the sand on top, up by the garage, as its being spread about the joints, hope you sort it out, the weeds should only be surface, if the drive was laid correctly, they pick out easy, but when your talking about a large area, best use weed killers, from the start of spring, then summer will be free of them.


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## Sue Ellen

*Re: Driveway advice*

Thanks for the advice. Must put this job on the list for him indoors. It won't go down too well if it keeps him away from football for long.


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## Brendan Burgess

*Re: Driveway advice*

I tend not to think too much about things like this and accepted the recommendation of a landscape gardener to put down gravel...which was totally unsuitable to me. I come in and out twice a day on my bicycle leaving marks in the gravel and distributing it around the place. Also I can't put up my bike on its stand on the gravel. 

So if you or your kids are cyclists, forget gravel.

Brendan


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## monstie

*Re: Driveway advice*

hi, 4 inches of hardcore(804) compressed with a heavy wacker plate, 1-2 inches of PAVING sand again compressed is enough for a driveway base. Cost per metre ranges from €75-€100 supply and fit including groundwork for a proper contractor. Brush-in sand costs €5 per bag which covers approx. 5 sq. met. and is essential for stabilising the paving and weed control. Definitely the nicest of any finish on a drive if done properly and with care, worth every penny


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## lala41

*Re: Driveway advice*



			
				monstie said:
			
		

> hi, 4 inches of hardcore(804) compressed with a heavy wacker plate, 1-2 inches of PAVING sand again compressed is enough for a driveway base. Cost per metre ranges from €75-€100 supply and fit including groundwork for a proper contractor. Brush-in sand costs €5 per bag which covers approx. 5 sq. met. and is essential for stabilising the paving and weed control. Definitely the nicest of any finish on a drive if done properly and with care, worth every penny


 
Yep

Thats it, are you a tradesman then? I pass info on, going by 20 years of 
being married to one but then, its difficult to price a job, without seeing it, because it depends on the base, some need a lot of digging out, to make the ground level first, as I said before, getting the base right is the most important part.


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## DonKing

*Re: Driveway advice*

Could anyone advise where you can buy silica sand? I have asked for Silica sand/brushin sand previously at my local hardware and the sand doesn't seem to gel or hold within the cobble lock. I suspect they just sold me a fine sand.


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## monstie

*Re: Driveway advice*

any roadstone paving centre


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## DonKing

*Re: Driveway advice*

I went into roadstone over in tallaght(I think thats where is was anyway!) a few years ago and they didn't seem to know anything about Silica sand!

Is there a brand name for silica sand?


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## monstie

*Re: Driveway advice*

roadstone people call it brush- in sand but it is the same thing


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## brigade

Regarding the imprint concrete, anyone know what you can use to freshen it up? It's looking a bit worn after a few years.


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## Odea

I have pea gravel in my driveway, came with the house. I cannot recommend it enough. It needs a rake a couple of times a year but that's about it. If you spill something on it such as paint or engine oil just rake it and it disappears. Ours was the grey variety but we mixed in some white stones (only a few) and they glisten when it rains on them. Our neighbour got cobbleock, at a cost. The area where he drives his car has a dark mark from his tyres and some weeds and moss have taken up residence in the cracks.


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## demoivre

Odea said:
			
		

> I have pea gravel in my driveway, came with the house. I cannot recommend it enough. It needs a rake a couple of times a year but that's about it. If you spill something on it such as paint or engine oil just rake it and it disappears. Ours was the grey variety but we mixed in some white stones (only a few) and they glisten when it rains on them. Our neighbour got cobbleock, at a cost. The area where he drives his car has a dark mark from his tyres and some weeds and moss have taken up residence in the cracks.



 Weeds and moss are easily treatable in paving .You will also get weeds on gravel. Gravel is constantly displaced by car tyres  which looks awful imo. Don't think you will find too many kids who are fond of gravel either - nightmare for bikes , scooters , prams go karts and the like.


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## monstie

With every outdoor surface there is a bit of maintenance involved every so often to prevent the likes of weeds and moss but over 10 or 15 years a cobblelock will cost no more than a gravel one and it dosnt tend to get stuck in your shoes as much as gravel and also gravel and wooden floors inside is a definite no no


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## 10to1

Agree with you Brendan, it's a nightmare for kids. It looks great but the thoughts of stones stuck in shoes around the house wrecking the flooring.


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## lala41

I am the same, hate gravel, it looks ok, on country cottages, with thatched roofs, but I much prefer to see paving, a little work now and then, and you got a good firm driveway, and looks nice too.


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## Sue Ellen

*Re: Driveway advice*



monstie said:


> hi, 4 inches of hardcore(804) compressed with a heavy wacker plate, 1-2 inches of PAVING sand again compressed is enough for a driveway base. Cost per metre ranges from €75-€100 supply and fit including groundwork for a proper contractor. Brush-in sand costs €5 per bag which covers approx. 5 sq. met. and is essential for stabilising the paving and weed control. Definitely the nicest of any finish on a drive if done properly and with care, worth every penny


 
Just wondering if it is necessary to hire out a wacker to refit the sand or will just brushing it between the bricks be sufficient? 

Should we spray for weeds before putting the sand in and if so what weed killer is suitable for use where a dog hangs about? Presumably we will need to leave a few days for the liquid spray killer to dry out to ensure that it does not cause problems with the sand?


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## Squire

Sueellen, where is the sand gone? Have you powerwashed it out? If so, you would be better off with a compactor so that the sand is worked well into the joints. It is the sand that creates a frictional bond between the bricks that stops them from rocking about.

Best thing is to brush in sand, compact (the sand will fill all voids in the joints) and then brush a final coat of sand to top up the joints again. Make sure the bricks and joints are competely dry before you brush in any sand.

I'm no expert on weedkiller but Roundup is good and I think it is safe enough for pets once it has dried (unless your dog has a habit of eating the weeds). Spray the roundup a few days before to ensure it completely gets into the weeds.


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## Sue Ellen

Squire said:


> Sueellen, where is the sand gone? Have you powerwashed it out?
> 
> If so, you would be better off with a compactor so that the sand is worked well into the joints. It is the sand that creates a frictional bond between the bricks that stops them from rocking about.
> 
> Best thing is to brush in sand, compact (the sand will fill all voids in the joints) and then brush a final coat of sand to top up the joints again. Make sure the bricks and joints are competely dry before you brush in any sand.
> 
> I'm no expert on weedkiller but Roundup is good and I think it is safe enough for pets once it has dried (unless your dog has a habit of eating the weeds). Spray the roundup a few days before to ensure it completely gets into the weeds.


 
Yep, never do things by halves. Should probably have been more careful but the sand was covered in moss also.

What's the difference between a compactor and a wacker (whacker?)? When they did the job originally they used the latter.

Will have to measure the area also and do a guesstimate on the amount of sand needed. Trip over to Roadstone needed also.


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## scuby

have you checked out www.matcrete.ie
came across them before when i thinking about doing some work out the back.. the city council in cork have used it at some junctions between streets running from south mall, looks well


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## Squire

sueellen said:


> What's the difference between a compactor and a wacker (whacker?)? When they did the job originally they used the latter.


 
No difference, a Wacker is just a make of plate compactor. You don't need anything too big, just ask for a small petrol plate compactor in your local hire shop. Wear a dust mask and ear plugs when using it. That dried sand is very bad for the lungs.


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## Sue Ellen

Squire said:


> No difference, a Wacker is just a make of plate compactor. You don't need anything too big, just ask for a small petrol plate compactor in your local hire shop. Wear a dust mask and ear plugs when using it. That dried sand is very bad for the lungs.


 
Thanks for your help and advice Squire. Nearly finished the cleaning. Will let it dry out properly, then spray, then let that dry and wait for some good weather before laying the sand. The good weather will be sure to arrive when the poor kids step inside the school doors


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## PGD1

jus to have a different perspective... I have paving and cobblelock and I powerwash them once every few years to keep them clean. Last time round I didn't get around to replacing the sand in time and I now have a weed problem but instead of spraying with chemicals I am pulling, scraping and burning them over time. I don't use chemicals anywhere in the garden.


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## BillPoster

I've used printed concrete about 6 years ago and its a great job where between 4 - 6 inches of concrete is laid, coloured and then a pattern is imprinted onto it - cobble, slate or whatever you fancy. Many colours and prints & designs are available. It can be expensive to have done (>£35/sqm) but it is a life time job but is by specialist contractor. It require littles or no maintenance. As with any driveway you should be careful not to allow any HGVs e.g. oil delivery lorries onto it!


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## dble8

brigade said:


> Regarding the imprint concrete, anyone know what you can use to freshen it up? It's looking a bit worn after a few years.


 
is the colour going or is it alot dull like not as shiny as it use to be?


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## BillPoster

Do you know what caused the colour to fade - sun? traffic?

I'm not an expert but I understand that the last thing to be applied to the concrete should be the sealer which is to help protect the colour from fading due to sunlight etc. On some cases I think you can mix up the dye with water and brush it onto the concrete when the concrete is very dry and colour will be enhanced. Sealer would be needed afterwards. Consult an expert. You may get some help from


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## Sue Ellen

Have a look also at www.pavingexpert.com for advice.


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