# Best block construction methods



## ollie30 (22 Sep 2006)

Hi,

We are about to start building a 2600 sq ft 2 storey house and have been searching the internet and threads for information but I'm totally confused.

What I would like to know is:
Since we don't like timer frame (currently live in timber frame and find wall fixing etc very troublesome for shelves etc). We also want concrete slabs on first floor, 

what is best method: 
1) Standard block and kingspan insulation. 
2) Poroton block 
3) AAC block by ytong or any similar 
4) roadstone safewarm block. 

If option 1 is the best solution, is there any way of upgrading above standard regualtions. I have spoken to rep from ytong block and he thinks poroton are brittle to chase?? 

Also which is most cost effective????

I hope this makes sense and someone can help ease my confusion....

Thanks,

Ollie


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## Eeek!!!! (22 Sep 2006)

*Re: Some important building questions!!!!!!!!*

Hi Ollie,
has your architect advised you on the various options?


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## Carebear (22 Sep 2006)

I'm using standard blocks and kingspan


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## monkeyboy (22 Sep 2006)

I would just read up and discuss with all the various reps myself...consult the arch also. The arch is unlikely to have a great knowledge of the full range any way. Arch may be a fan of one or the other and specifys normally without much knowledge of the others.


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## movax (22 Sep 2006)

if it ain't broke dont try and fix it , i've seen countless iterations of "new" blocks come and go on sites and almost all consultant Architects and Engineers will specify standard 100mm solids and the insulation of choice would be Kingspan/aerolite.


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## ollie30 (22 Sep 2006)

sorry for late reply,architect recommends standard partial fill cavity and says that should be warm enough but i was worried about thermal bridge and thermal loop as other systems are supposed to stop the above faults dont want to have to dry line as this can add time and cost to job but also reduce thermal store of the conrete wall and again back to fixing heavy objects to wall as long screws are needed (friends have found this system of insulated plaserboard have resulted in long screws and not as confident in screwing heavy objects to wall)not trying to go totaly green or anything (every respect for those who are) but just like to build a reasonably priced well insulated house exceeding current building regs as i think why not go beyond a minnimum standard.all help greatly appreciated


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## Sue Ellen (23 Sep 2006)

Hi Ollie,

If its of any interest we have a key post on Poroton Blocks.


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## ollie30 (25 Sep 2006)

thanks suellen very intersting,arch. thinks irish weather doesnt suit single leaf construction due to our driving rain must be different than european rain?just incase anybody has any thoughts or answers to any of the mentioned or above thread


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## moylan1 (26 Sep 2006)

in order to achieve energy efficiency legislation which is supposed to happen sometime this year or the next the much loved by architects standard cavity wall systems are on the way out as the method of construction is very inefficient in terms poor air-tightness and thermal ratings. the standard hollow block and insulated drylining wall systems on the other hand will acheive this. luckily, due to the mild climate of ireland and the relative affordability of fuel, this particular apect doesn't really affect or bother the construction market or the average consumer. however new legislation may force people to think other wise.


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## extopia (26 Sep 2006)

ollie30 said:


> thanks suellen very intersting,arch. thinks irish weather doesnt suit single leaf construction due to our driving rain must be different than european rain?



Yes, I've heard this argument, too. Ask your architect for his thoughts about why this method has received an agrement certificate if it's supposedly unsuited to our climate. And how come we're the only country with driving rain. 

The biggest problem with non-standard methods (i.e. anything other than concrete blocks) is getting a builder to do the work. Most blocklayers charge by the block, for example, and don't know how to quote on Poroton because there are far fewer blocks per square metre of wall - plus they don't know the method. Some of us have gotten over this problem by building it ourselves, which is possible if you're any reasonably handy (and patient).

I think you're going overboard if you're basing the choice of building material on ease of attachment of objects to walls. There are fixings available for every situation.


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## thefisherman (26 Sep 2006)

am building 2500m house myself(am blocklayer by trade)and used quinnlite blocks as inside leaf with 60mm kingspan insulation in cavity and standard block for out side leaf.the quinn lite blocks were 1 euro 40 each,expensive but  should save in heating costs


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## extopia (26 Sep 2006)

Is that 2500 sq metres? That's some house!


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## thefisherman (27 Sep 2006)

sorry typo-should read 2500 foot squared,


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## Zowark (29 Sep 2006)

Also good is 100mm 'common' blockwork exterior leaf with 105mm full cavity fill (silver bead blow in) with a 100mm 'common' blockwork interior leaf. 
Such as Certainfill Graphite 27 plus. That will give you 0.27 U-value with a 305mm over all wall.

Not all full cavity fill will give you 0.27 at 105mm, beware.

Advantage:
Normal cavity wall construction but with NO insulation worries like coldbriding, gaps at corners, up to 20% (thrown all over site) waste cut offs... 
Block layers are not insulators!
Use smooth ties.
When walls are up, roof on windows in, basically cavity closed all around.
Let the pros blow in insulation into the cavity.

Your architect should be happy with that!

You can up the u-value by using a Quinn lite on the interior cavity leaf. 

Usefull link on Insulation agrement certificates:
[broken link removed]

Then go to Product area , Select a Catagory.


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## ludermor (29 Sep 2006)

you will still have cold bridging around all the windows and doors on the reveal returns


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## ollie30 (1 Oct 2006)

was informed on another forum by a sustainable builder to use standard 9 inch hollow block but with (i think 150mm) paroc insulation on outside then plaster over,i'm not connected in any way to the building trade but never liked them blocks but then am i back to knocking any method thats not standard?extopia how did you find poroton and did you use any other insulation?is it much more expensive of a method and has anyone tried the full fill cavity method not long before we start and need to make a decission still very confussed and not finding any architects in our area too willing to shed much light on the subject strange since there is some good ones out there


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## extopia (1 Oct 2006)

I found the poroton blocks great to work with as I was doing the building myself. They have a very good U-value. Although it is not deemed necessary by the manufacturer, we insulated further on the inside, with insulated plasterboard, not the very thick stuff, just 25mm. The exterior is rendered with insulating lime mortar. Pretty snug, though as we don't use the hosue full time it's hard to get a realistic idea of running costs. Poroton is expensive - about 4 euro per block, translates to about 64 euro per square metre of wall.


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## GL01 (2 Oct 2006)

There are various insulated external render systems available that you can use with a single leaf of standard blocks, laid on their 215mm edge.

The insulated render is applied to the external leaf and is approximately 120mm thick giving you a wall build up of around 335mm

 The advantage of these systems is that they give an excellent u-value (better than what is currently necessary) and they simplify construction - no cavity and therefore none of the associated problems. 

To achieve air tightness you will need to use a vapour barrier and seal it around each ope - there are various product on the market that are specifically designed to ensure air tight seals around windows where it can be tricky.


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## ollie30 (2 Oct 2006)

thanks folks sounds like the standard block either cavity or solid with extierior insulation and renderred is a good job that'll exceed current regs why arent more concrete carnivours like myself willng to use this system,is it used much in ireland?what is done where stone is going to be used to face parts of the front (which faces north)


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## masonchat (23 Feb 2007)

standard 100mm outter lear partial fill 100mm cavity with 65mm kingspan, just do a few spot check down the cavitys urself when the blocklayer starts ensure wall ties are kept clean no obstructions in the cavity and that insulation is kept tight against inner leaf and that it comes up to all jambs windows doors properly, also you said you want concrete floors on first floor then the inside leaf will have to be standaed block on flat 215mm thick  so that the ducon concrete slabs can rest on them on top of which the floor will be poured mason by trade myself


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## masonchat (23 Feb 2007)

where stone is added to the front it is usually done so as yet another leaf makin the outter leaf 300mm thick  it should be allowed for in the footing and wallties or mesh left to protrude on outside of outter leaf of blockwork to secure the stone


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## BarneyMc (21 Oct 2007)

Masonchat, so concrete 1st floor means you must go with standard concrete block?? That makes things simple!

Any views on 150mm cavity, standard block construction? What thicknness of insulation... 120mm?


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## sydthebeat (21 Oct 2007)

wider cavities lead to different problems.. ie your standard window frame doesnt close the cavity.. specialist jamb blocks need to be used....
your eaves detail is awkward, ...

personally, i think you should look at exactly what BER rating you want to end up with, and an approximate figure on what you want to spend on fuel every year... and then calculate backwards to see what u value of construction you need to achieve same... this will then dictate your wall construction (being within budget, of course).... 

also remember that while partial fill cavity walls meet minimum regulations in theory... in practise the situation could be a whole lot different... SEI u value calculator doesnt take thermal looping into account, nor does it take into account the 'wetness' factor (a 'wet' block doesnt have the same u value as a dry block).....


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## BarneyMc (25 Oct 2007)

Thanks Systhebeat,

Seems like there are so many theories on this subject!! Anyone else think wider cavity is a good idea?


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## galwaytt (25 Oct 2007)

OP well I hear you on the complaints re TF, but the fault there isn't the TF, but the way it was put together and/or the way it was finished out.   There is no reason you can't have TF and the qualities you want.

Me?  I have TF and concrete floors upstairs.    And declaring myself here, I work for an 'alternative build system' and we've had our houses tested by the accreditation body and found ours to be well below the requirements.  Again, it's all down to how it's put together - all the care in the world isn't worth a jot, if it all goes to bits on the site..........

As for wide cavities - better check with Homebond first.  A friend of mine wanted to build 6" cavities on a block build recently, and Homebond said they wouldn't cover 6" cavities......................never heard that before, either.........


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## mudhut (8 Nov 2007)

HI Fisherman,  being looking at the quinnlite blocks,  (wating for a quote)
how do you find house heating with Q Lite inner leaf,  ?  other than price issues , why didnt you use Q lite for outer leaf ,  did you use  conc slabs or timber joist for 1st floor ?   what heating system did you go with,  Sorry for the questions blitz ,  but coming down to final decision time 

...........Thanks .............


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## Paul Boland (25 Mar 2008)

Ollie

I think ICF is the way forward it gives you 6 inches of solid concrete. Which Will hold the solid concrete first floor. I think Most Architects and Engineers use the same block/Cavity details because the just dont bother changing them. ICF is super warm also. worked on a hotel built with it


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## Superman (25 Mar 2008)

PAYEPLEB said:


> Therefore the following is THE most logical cost effective method of insualting a house:
> 100mm standard block(outside leaf)- 100mm cavity(no insulation) - 100mm standard block(inside leaf) - 35mm Kingspan insulated slab on inside of external walls.
> 
> Forget about insulating the cavity, by the time heat has passed through the insulated slab and gone through the 4 inch block it ain't coming back!



Firstly that's nonsense.
Secondly, 35mm Kingspan does not meet current Building Regulations.
Did anyone actually certify your build?


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## sydthebeat (25 Mar 2008)

PAYEPLEB said:


> I've just built a house with *NO* cavity wall insulation.
> 
> I researched and researched and researched but came to a simple conclusion - the best way to insulate a house is to stop the heat getting out!
> 
> ...


 
there are lots of things wrong with this post.
as superman has said, 35mm PU foam does not meet current minimum building regulations so your construction is actually illegal. I hope you didnt get a mortgage to build this, because if you did whoever signed it off is in trouble.

secondly, heat is lost in may ways throught a building, not just through ventilation. the HRV system is not a heating system, its simply an exchange system. The most heat is lost through the fabric of the building, which you have inadequately insulated.


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## ninsaga (25 Mar 2008)

Am I correct in thinking also that insulted slab on the inside - although it helps the house heat up quickly - prevents the use of the concrete from being used as a thermal mass. therefore once you turn off the heating, insulated slab houses tend to lose their heat more quickly?

ninsaga


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## sydthebeat (26 Mar 2008)

thermal mass in the irish situation is a moot point, IMHO.

PAYEPLEB is correct in stating that all the internal walls and concrete slabs act as thermal mass (even more so than external walls, which we try to insulate anyway).

The correct heating system is to have a constant heat source and exclude as much as possible heat losses.

We are too used to living in draughty, badly insulated, badly constructed dwellings where we have to load up the heating system in the morning to get heat into the dwelling, keep it intermittent throughout the day, and let it die down at night.... this is a bad heating method.


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## Birroc (26 Mar 2008)

sydthebeat said:


> wider cavities lead to different problems.. ie your standard window frame doesnt close the cavity.. specialist jamb blocks need to be used....
> your eaves detail is awkward, ...


 
Hmmm, I am about to build a house with 150mm cavity with pumped full fill insulation. Should I tell the windows people that I need these specialist jamb blocks ? What exactly are they ?


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## sydthebeat (26 Mar 2008)

Birroc said:


> Hmmm, I am about to build a house with 150mm cavity with pumped full fill insulation. Should I tell the windows people that I need these specialist jamb blocks ? What exactly are they ?


 
How is your blocklayer constructing the jambs???
If you have 150 cavities you should definitely use proprietory jamb blocks... see roadstone for example... the cavity closer block.
[broken link removed]
make sure your blocklayer doesnt just lump hammer a standard block as a closer!!!!!

The windows people wont have anything to do with the block laying, but ask they what they require. Their windows will strap either side of the frame so they will need grounding.


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## daddycool (26 Mar 2008)

building a 100m block inner leaf, a 200ml cavity with 160ml Kingspan board (2*80ml boards lapped) - 100ml exterior leaf. Wanted thick walls as building a 'traditional old world' house - the window debate above I assume is being dealt with (better check!)


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## sydthebeat (26 Mar 2008)

AFAIK Cavities over 150mm will not be approved by either Homebond, or, if i am not mistaken, the concrete block manufacturers either as a structural system.
Were you advised to build like this? and have you any hassle getting it certified? Its the first time ive heard of a 200mm cavity.


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## Birroc (26 Mar 2008)

sydthebeat said:


> How is your blocklayer constructing the jambs???
> If you have 150 cavities you should definitely use proprietory jamb blocks... see roadstone for example... the cavity closer block.
> [broken link removed]
> make sure your blocklayer doesnt just lump hammer a standard block as a closer!!!!!


 
Excuse my ignorance but I dont see any mention of jambs in this Roadstone link.

Does jamb also mean 'cavity closer' ?


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## sas (26 Mar 2008)

sydthebeat said:


> Its the first time ive heard of a 200mm cavity.


 
This article covers a development using 200mm full fill cavity homes [broken link removed]


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## sas (26 Mar 2008)

Birroc said:


> Excuse my ignorance but I dont see any mention of jambs in this Roadstone link.
> 
> Does jamb also mean 'cavity closer' ?


 
The jambs are the 'L' shaped blocks.


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## daddycool (26 Mar 2008)

sydthebeat said:


> AFAIK Cavities over 150mm will not be approved by either Homebond, or, if i am not mistaken, the concrete block manufacturers either as a structural system.
> Were you advised to build like this? and have you any hassle getting it certified? Its the first time ive heard of a 200mm cavity.


 
better have it checked out - architect has designed and advised - not built yet so no certification issues ...


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## sydthebeat (26 Mar 2008)

i just had a good coversation with a tech guy from roadstone. His views are that whenever a non-standard system is used, ie wider cavities, it needs to be propertly detailed and designed. In the case of a 200 cavity it really needs to be designed by a structural engineer. It needs more frequent and (probably) bespoke wall ties. He suggested a wall make up of 100 outer, 200 cavity and 215 hollowblock inner, to add stability to the system. Points of instability such as opes and returns have to be especially designed. The number and locations of wall ties in these areas really should be designed by a structural engineer.

If your architect has no problem certifying then great. Can you please keep me informed of how your build goes and if there are any unforeseen issue with such a cavity, im very interested.

Re the homebond issue. They generally have no problem once the build is signed off by an architect / engineer.... but they probably wont stand over any insurance claim caused by such a structure. Will this be an issue for you?


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## daddycool (27 Mar 2008)

... well if it falls down on my head it'll be an issue yes!! At the moment the walls are the least of my problems - getting out of the ground is the issue 

My architect and structural engineer will both stand over it, and yes it is being bespoke designed by the structural engineer.  The final U-value estimate  is .11 so that's good.  My foreman has a personal bug-bear over badly fitted insulation board and so I hope all will be fitted perfectly on his watch.  Also using 2*80 kingspan boards means that we can lap the joins and so further minimise leakage

will keep the forums updated over the next 12 months and will come back to this thread at the time of cavity design for additional detail ... I know there is a debate about laying the inner leaf on the flat for the concrete floor upstairs ... that was a while ago - but that's what the structural guys are there to do ... God Bless the professionals when things get complicated


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## sydthebeat (27 Mar 2008)

trying to lap the joints on 2 x 80mm boards is going to be very very difficult with the increased frequency of wall ties.
You will probably have a wall tie on every block course around opes, this means you may only be able to incorporate 225 height boards at these points.

When calculating u values i hope your engineer was including for the increased frequency of wall ties, plus the u value calculator doesnt include a default for gaps in the boards (incorrectly imo)

personally, IMHO whilst you may not achieve a similar u value, you would probably get a much better performing wall with a pump in insulation such as rockwool energy saver.


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## daddycool (27 Mar 2008)

sydthebeat said:


> personally, IMHO whilst you may not achieve a similar u value, you would probably get a much better performing wall with a pump in insulation such as rockwool energy saver.


 
Whats that 'rockwool energy saver' product then? I'm familiar with in-fill cavity bead insulation - take your point about wall tie freq. around the opes - architect is a pro-board man rather than in-fill so that's why we had gone down that route to get to the .11u value but as that figure comes from Kingspan,I am guessing its just a straight calculation based on block and boards without any of the 'negatives' u mention

when would it be blown in - when wall is fully completed 2 storeys or as you go? Blown from the top or in along courses? I'd be a bit nervous about having no air cavity tho - what about transfer of damp/wet from the external leaf?  You suggest anywhere I can get a quote for the 'rockwool energy saver' product u mention so I can compare values and costs?


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## sydthebeat (27 Mar 2008)

[broken link removed]

http://www.rockwool.co.uk/graphics/RW-GB-implementation/datasheets/EnergySaver.pdf

thats the rockwool energy saver above. Im not in any way associated with this company, i just like the product.

IMHO its a better option that EPS bead insulation as this is pumped in under pressure so theres a minimal chance of sagging compared to beads.

As i say, it wont give you as good a 'theoritical' u value as the baord insulation, but IMO it will actually give you a better performing structure. 

Board insulation has issues such as 'thermal looping', incorrect jointing (poor workmanship), gaps at corners, reduction of performance through diffusion of gases...


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## davidoco (27 Mar 2008)

sydthebeat said:


> [broken link removed]
> 
> http://www.rockwool.co.uk/graphics/RW-GB-implementation/datasheets/EnergySaver.pdf


 
Did a google search and can only find one company pumping cavities in Ireland with energysaver.  Smiths in the midlands.   Is there anybody else?


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## madbuilder (1 Apr 2008)

First time poster!! so go easy!!. I have settled on a quinn lite 150mm inner leaf, 2no. 60mm xtraterm or kingspan boards, a 40mm air gap, (this gives a 160mm cavity in total) and a 100mm outer leaf dense block.
What kind of u-value would this give and would the wall ties need to be more than usual? what do you think of the wall make up? 

A lot of people are telling me about the insulation board on the inside of the inner leaf but heard this can create mould, I think it sounds good in theory but has it just become the norm and be out lawed in 5 year when everybody is getting sick due to sick building syndrome


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## thefisherman (2 Apr 2008)

hi i built my house using standard block outside leaf-100mm cavity with 60mm kingspan and 100mm quinn lite inner leaf,and the house is very warm(not only my view but every one who calls) and this is without curtains on the windows,.i would use glue instead of mortar if iwas building again as mortar goes off very quick with quinnlite but that wouldhave given me a small promblem with wall ties  and levels but a freind who worked in germany told me of longer flexible ties


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## sas (2 Apr 2008)

thefisherman said:


> hi i built my house using standard block outside leaf-100mm cavity with 60mm kingspan and 100mm quinn lite inner leaf,and the house is very warm(not only my view but every one who calls) and this is without curtains on the windows,.


 
Fair enough but at least put it in context and tell us how big it is, how much you spend per year on oil, or gas or solid fuel etc. No one claims that regular build can't be warm, its how much it costs to keep it warm is the issue of course.

Which quinnlite block did you use incidently?


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## thefisherman (2 Apr 2008)

house is 2600 square foot.ufh downstairs and rads upstairs(dont really use the rads)heated by thermia diplomat 10kw heat pump.3 girls including baby so plenty of baths and showers and of course plenty of laundry,living in house around 7 weeks.toal esb including standing charge and vat coming in around euro4.20 to 5 euro a day.how much of this is heating and hot water i have not yet had time to find out but hp should cost around8-9hundred a year,the block i used was quinnlite b5.the hp supplies all the heating and hot water for showers baths etc, i have stove in living room but have yet to use it


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## sydthebeat (2 Apr 2008)

madbuilder said:


> First time poster!! so go easy!!. I have settled on a quinn lite 150mm inner leaf, 2no. 60mm xtraterm or kingspan boards, a 40mm air gap, (this gives a 160mm cavity in total) and a 100mm outer leaf dense block.
> What kind of u-value would this give and would the wall ties need to be more than usual? what do you think of the wall make up?
> 
> A lot of people are telling me about the insulation board on the inside of the inner leaf but heard this can create mould, I think it sounds good in theory but has it just become the norm and be out lawed in 5 year when everybody is getting sick due to sick building syndrome


 
your construction is a good one, but (forgive my prying) how have you 'settled' on this without even knowing its u value??? 
surely the u value is the singular most important factor in choosing a construction specification.

Any cavity in excess of 110mm needs to have upgraded frequency of wall ties, and i dare say that a 160mm cavity wall would need to be certed by a structural engineer.

Internal thermal linings have not shown to cause interstitial condensation in any calculations i have done to date, so the 'mould' threat is unproven IMO.


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## madbuilder (2 Apr 2008)

Can some one run this through the sei calculator to see what u-value it gives please, tried downloading it but can't!! for some reason. 

12mm render quinn lite 150mm inner leaf, 2no. 60mm xtraterm or kingspan boards, a 40mm air gap, and a 100mm outer leaf dense block, inside plaster.

Thanks a mill


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## Roundy# (3 Apr 2008)

I'm getting a U value of 0.16, pretty good!! Assuming thermal conductivity of Quinn lite block is 0.17W/mk


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## madbuilder (3 Apr 2008)

that sounds good, thanks for that Roundy


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## sydthebeat (3 Apr 2008)

did a uvaluate calc for you and got a u value of 0.15... included all thermal bridges such as wall ties, and even includes normal mortar joints in aac blocks, not thin bed...

[broken link removed]


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## madbuilder (3 Apr 2008)

Thanks for the Syd, Is 0.15 close to passive levels? did anybody out there use the quinn block and how did ye plaster it or is it plastered just like a normal dense block?


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## sydthebeat (3 Apr 2008)

Theres so much more to passive houses than just u values, so i cant comment whether its close to passive levels or not, but it is a good u value. 
Have you had a preliminary BER assessment done off the plans??? This will give you the best indication of how energy efficient your dwelling will be....

It does have issues however. Increased cavity needs structural enginner certificaion, partial fill boards are subject to thermal looping (this doesnt effect BER ratings or calcs), if thin bed mortar is used then you need to get your levels correct for lintels cills etc.....


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## madbuilder (3 Apr 2008)

I haven't got a ber rating done based on plans, it wasn't a requirment for planning so didn't look into doing it.

As regards the ties how much would they increase by. I have seen this type of construction done but with a standard block and a concrete floor, I think the inside leaf (normal dense block) was even on edge if i remember correctly.


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## sydthebeat (3 Apr 2008)

im not a structural engineer so i couldnt (wouldnt) specify what the frequency and type of ties to be incorporated.

Are you going to register the house with homebond or premier??? have you contacted them about the extra width cavity??


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## madbuilder (3 Apr 2008)

Another form of insulation in a cavity I heard of but I don't think it has been done, 

Would it be possible to construct the inside leaf leaving wall ties hanging out, then spray on the inslation to the outside of the inner leaf and then construct the outer leaf of block work. 
Advantages: increase air tightness. 
Disavantages: you would have to construct inner leaf to first floor level, then spray it, place the concrete floor then construct the outer leaf to first floor level. Then construct inner leaf to roof level spray it and then continue the outer leaf to roof level, 

Meaning you would have to bring the spray on insulation contractor on site twice to insulate the house.


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## madbuilder (3 Apr 2008)

Sorry Syd, I just posted 1 min after you.

Do you have to get homebond for a one off house, I know builders use it as a selling point when selling the 3 bed semi.


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## sydthebeat (3 Apr 2008)

You dont have to, but it is a 10 year structural insurance type thing. The builder has to be homebond registered though... they dont accept direct labour builds AFAIK.


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## sydthebeat (3 Apr 2008)

madbuilder said:


> Another form of insulation in a cavity I heard of but I don't think it has been done,
> 
> Would it be possible to construct the inside leaf leaving wall ties hanging out, then spray on the inslation to the outside of the inner leaf and then construct the outer leaf of block work.
> Advantages: increase air tightness.
> ...


 
i dont think theres a certified system for this yet.... is there???
are you referring to icycene??


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## BarneyMc (3 Apr 2008)

I'm currently looking at ICF as the best build method but very interested in this 'traditional' way of achieving a well insulated house and have not ruled this out. It would be good to see what the best construct is (price obviously being a factor).

Madbuilder and all, page 3 of this post will give you other combinations that Syd looked at that can be used to achieve good u-values: http://www.askaboutmoney.com/showthread.php?t=67603&page=3

The big issue with block build is just how much attention to detail your builder will give. It's ok on paper but a building site is another thing.


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## madbuilder (3 Apr 2008)

I don't think it is a certified system, what do you know about icycene, bother in law say's they do insulation for attics, a warm roof deck I think he called it.


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## abdjc (3 Apr 2008)

Hi Ollie

I am going to be building my own new house using the ICF (insulating concrete formwork).  I am a bricklayer by trade and this method of construction is so quick and will get me a higher energy rating than traditional building methods.  It is also draught proof and fire resistant.  If you need more info on this system that I have chosen let me know.


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## BarneyMc (4 Apr 2008)

abdjc said:


> If you need more info on this system that I have chosen let me know.


 
Can you post publically so we can all see, would be very interested. Thanks!!


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## abdjc (4 Apr 2008)

hi barneymc

The system that I have chosen is made in Ireland by AMVIC so is recognised by Homebond and has Irish Agreement Board and BRE Certificates.  Not all ICF systems have these.


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## madbuilder (8 Apr 2008)

abdjc

You seem to promote AMVIC petty well, any reason why??


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## ninsaga (8 Apr 2008)

madbuilder said:


> abdjc
> 
> You seem to promote AMVIC petty well, any reason why??



He appears just to be answering a question put forward as far as I can see.


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## abdjc (8 Apr 2008)

madbuilder

The reasons are in my last response.


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## Jewel (18 Apr 2008)

Hi 
I am about to build a house with 100mm block Inner and outer with 150mm cavity with pumped full insulation. Builder suggested adding 35mm insulation board attached to Inner wall. Am I going overboard on the insulation ?

How do you calc the BER rating ?


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