# dry lining cost per sqm



## silvermike44

I am building a new house and want to do dry lining on the walls, I am wondering what the cost per sqm is for the service meaning the person for labor with no materials.


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## beaky

I recently paid €24 per square metre to erect 50mm foil backed insulated plasterboard and skim over during a renovation job.  That included VAT but did not include the boards themselves.  That was the final negotiated price and I thought it was still quite expensive but did not want to get the walls pumped so I went with it.


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## silvermike44

G that was costly I think, I don not know what the price would be but for labour is costly as the labour come with hands hanging.


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## Simeon

All depends on the access, the amount of cutting, splayed angles, height of walls, awkward areas, window/door reveals and soffits etc. So on the back of an envelope quote ...... it may not be excessive.


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## beaky

yes I thought is was costly but the plastering job was top notch and it was done as an extra which always seem to be more expensive than if it was included in the original quote.  Can I ask why you cannot get the wall cavity insulated instead when you are doing a new build?


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## Simeon

You can ........ but I suspect that your builder deemed this way necessary.


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## galwaytt

beaky said:


> yes I thought is was costly but the plastering job was top notch and it was done as an extra which always seem to be more expensive than if it was included in the original quote. Can I ask why you cannot get the wall cavity insulated instead when you are doing a new build?


 
....dry lining is a good idea whether you have a cavity with insulation or not.    Otherwise, you're heating the walls.........


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## beaky

galwaytt said:


> ....dry lining is a good idea whether you have a cavity with insulation or not. Otherwise, you're heating the walls.........


 Yes but most of that heat will be released back into the room as it cools when the heating goes off, if you have insulation inside the cavity.  Not sure about the economics of doing both.


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## rockofages

beaky said:


> Yes but most of that heat will be released back into the room as it cools when the heating goes off, if you have insulation inside the cavity.  Not sure about the economics of doing both.


Heating the walls will cause leakage.. heat will always escape somehow. Better off not heating the walls in the first place if possible.


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## galwaytt

beaky said:


> Yes but most of that heat will be released back into the room as it cools when the heating goes off, if you have insulation inside the cavity. Not sure about the economics of doing both.


 

Possibly,  but whether it's measurable........besides - if I remember my Inter Cert Physics correctly......'energy cannot be created or destroyed, but changed from one form to another'......?  And when energy goes from one form to another convection (air) to radiated (walls), there are losses.  You do not get it all back.   And that's ignoring how much your wall is handing away in the cavity on top of that........cavit insulation or no cavity insulation..........

Besides, there's another couple of factors which make it a good idea:  
1. Simplifies wiring - no wall chasing required = cheaper, faster, easier.
2. No scudding or sand/cement plastering required - skimcoat only = cheaper, cleaner, dryer.  And much, much less drying out time.
3. Better airtightness.  It's easier to achieve good airtightness with board products.


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## silvermike44

ya the builder wants it this way, I am doing a self build meaning hiring in the labor directly, but have a builder friend giving me some advice, I also checked a few plaster guys for prices to plaster inside and out, it ranged from 11,500 to 22,500 euro some difference in prices for the same job, the 4 guys i receved the prices from I know them all, also the guys for wiring, asked 3 guys i know again them all from my area again (as i'm in the country side) ranged from 4,200-9,950 euro, thinking some thing was different, i got a list from one and gave the list to the other 3 guys to give me a exact price and all again ranged from 4,500-10,200 for the same job, unreal, shoping around does make a difference. the house is 3,100 sq ft.
so dryliining price is about 24/sqm labour, does this include metal stud section of rooms in this.


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## 4400kevin

To dryline and skim a 3100sq ft house I would expect around 7000 this would include the skim, beads etc but not the plasterboard.


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## stevo

I got a price for my 2800Sq ft house of 15K for plastering, slabbing and fitting thermaboard. Plasterer estimates an additional 8K on materials excl thermaboard.


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## tyrekicker

Does anybody know where you can get resonably priced insulation material? 
I have been quoted €29 each for insulated plasterboard for my self-build in Limerick. I am also looking for significant quantities of Rafterloc which also seems quite expensive.

Has anyone used www.just-insulation.com in the UK? They deliver to Ireland, and seem cheaper even when you take delviery into account. 

They appear to stcok 'Celotex' insulated slab instead of Quinntherm or Kingspan. Has anyone used Celotex?


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## Simeon

If that's for 50mm you've got an excellent price ........ I just hope it comes out the front gate! If it's for 38mm it still is good ....... and presumably this is by conventional gate. A few weeks back I paid Eu 38 and Eu 33 for Extratherm delivered 10Ks from the stockists.


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## 4400kevin

The going rate is 8-10 euro for slabing and 14-15 euro for skimming this is per sheet of plasterboard if you allow 30 euro per insulated board that add up to 55 euro per board which is equal to 2.8 m2 so the cost of dry lining and skimming per metre is 19.50 per m2 labour and materials.


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## Simeon

Cutting insulated boards (splaying the angles for correct thermal sealing) is far slower than cutting ordinary boards. Also drilling and mushrooming is far more time consuming ........ even with long runs you will take far longer. Now, if there is a quicker way let me know!


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## Jister

tyrekicker said:


> Does anybody know where you can get resonably priced insulation material?
> I have been quoted €29 each for insulated plasterboard for my self-build in Limerick. I am also looking for significant quantities of Rafterloc which also seems quite expensive.
> 
> Has anyone used www.just-insulation.com in the UK? They deliver to Ireland, and seem cheaper even when you take delviery into account.
> 
> They appear to stcok 'Celotex' insulated slab instead of Quinntherm or Kingspan. Has anyone used Celotex?


 
Where did you get that price and is it 38mm or 50mm? 

Also, I was going with Raftloc but its pricey, got 8x4 sheets of qunintherm instead. It takes a while to get into the swing of cutting it but I started doing it outside and cutting it pretty accurately with a saw.

Think 8X4 sheets of 100mm insulation board cost me €47 each


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## david ross

galwaytt said:


> ....[broken link removed] is a good idea whether you have a cavity with insulation or not.    Otherwise, you're heating the walls.........


and moreover Dry lining also provides more  flexibility in the choice of insulations materials. 
                     If you use a timber  frame, dry lining is the most preferred method. 
                    The board systems used  are pre-finished, thus requiring less labor during installation. 
                    It  even makes room for a self-builder to save on the overall cost of  building.
                   For long term safety from dampening,  dry lining can be used to insulate the walls. 
The procedure includes either fixing timber to the walls, fitting insulation between the battens and fixing and decorating the plasterboard, 
                    or placing plaster  dabs on the walls and pushing plasterboard on to them.


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## MacTheKnife1

galwaytt said:


> 2. No scudding or sand/cement plastering required - skimcoat only = cheaper, cleaner, dryer.  And much, much less drying out time.



Dumb question here: If you are dry lining do you need a skimcoat on the wall?? Can you not simply dry line straight onto the blocks?


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## ddl

insulation boards have to be cut with a saw,24 euros a squre metre was very reasonable the most important thing is that it is done properly,pay peanuts ull get monkeys.And it will cost more in the long run


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## ddl

if the blockwork is fairly straight,If not you could bond them on.Iwould advise a scratch coat and plant on the boards with mushrooms.Only problem is space .External walls 50 ml insulation (polyiso Board)


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## Lak

after 30 years of building and plastering my own prefered choice.. (I am also a qualified BER assessor) would be medium density block with a 125mm cavity fully filled with Polypearl platinum bead, internal wall of 100mm Quinn lite block drylined with 12.5mm tapered edge plasterboard using dryline adhesive.
This method allows for the best of all worlds.
You have quick response heating time as you are not as mentioned heating cold internal poor u value blocks.
You have longer term, (when the heating is on for longer periods), thermal mass which in my opinion can not be overstated in importance, virtue of the excellent u value aereated concrete block (Quinnlite)
You have full fill top notch insulation at 125mm.
Cost considerations this method gives the best value for money and the best benefits, after all these years I like to think I know a bit about it all....... Not much else mind !!


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