# draught proofing hall door



## Just the One (26 Jan 2010)

I have a solid mahogany front door and want to draught proof it. I have seen and heard about brush strips. You have to router a trench around the door and fit the brush strip.

Are they any good? Expensive?


----------



## Buildright (26 Jan 2010)

Generally if you have a lot of cold air been drawn in under your front door, it is due to leaks in the top half of the building. When air is heated it rises and exerts pressure on the upper half of the house, a good analogy is a hot air baloon. Fireplaces also heat air which rushes up the chimney creating negative pressure at low level which induces cold air in at floor level. The best method of draft sealing a front door is to deal with the chimney and the leaks in the upper floor, then get one of those snake shaped cushions to put inside the door.


----------



## Just the One (26 Jan 2010)

I have one of the snakes at the door but there are some gaps around the perimeter of the door.


----------



## onq (26 Jan 2010)

Just the One said:


> I have a solid mahogany front door and want to draught proof it. I have seen and heard about brush strips. You have to router a trench around the door and fit the brush strip.
> 
> Are they any good? Expensive?



There used to be stick on strips - I don't know where the requirement to router them comes from. They were of limited use.
In an older property you get leaks from four main sources in decreasing order of strength, but not total capacity.

The back door is open
One or more open windows.
An open chimney in the living room
Permanent vents in every other habitable room
The best method of draught-proofing a front door is to build an enclosed front porch with a well sealed door - under 2.0 sqm its exempted development.
It tends to act like an airlock preventing large air movements if opening one door at a time and with both closed its a perfect seal.
Be careful of the "tall windows" doors with the 3"/75mm bottom frame - a trip hazard even for able bodied younger people.
Be careful of the "fall" on your existing step in case your door fouls it if opening inwards - use rising butt hinges.
Part M  of the building regulations requires that door thresholds should be no more than 15mm high.

HTH

ONQ


----------



## suzie (26 Jan 2010)

I'd like to seal my front door by building a front porch with a sealed door. Now the house already has a sort of "opened" entrance porch or canopy before getting to the front door. Other houses in the estate have just enclosed this opening with a pvc framed door etc to the outer most edge. Though as things currently stand one would still have to step up into this newly enclosed porch by more than 15mm (id say 80mm). This is the current rise of the step. Would this break any regulations?

Secondly, the depth of this porch area isnt sufficient to allow for an inward opening door, which would be idea, so I guess the only other options would be an outward or a sliding door? 

I know it would be more costly but could one extend the area with what I'll call a u shape shell and then to rebuild the roof accordingly?

Thanks 
S.


----------



## D8Lady (26 Jan 2010)

If you just want it as a winter measure, get an oversized heavy curtain ( on sale now)  and one of those self supported shower curtains across the inside of the door. Keeps the drafts out very well. 
Makes a 3 degree difference in heat in my hallway.


----------



## onq (27 Jan 2010)

suzie said:


> I'd like to seal my front door by building a front porch with a sealed door. Now the house already has a sort of "opened" entrance porch or canopy before getting to the front door. Other houses in the estate have just enclosed this opening with a pvc framed door etc to the outer most edge. Though as things currently stand one would still have to step up into this newly enclosed porch by more than 15mm (id say 80mm). This is the current rise of the step. Would this break any regulations?
> 
> Secondly, the depth of this porch area isnt sufficient to allow for an inward opening door, which would be idea, so I guess the only other options would be an outward or a sliding door?
> 
> ...



Hi Suzie,

Sorry I wasn't any clearer.

The 80mm step is probably fine the way it is, the aim is to try and not create a trip hazard.
I nearly went flying after a client had a new porch fitted and the general issue is not to create a trip hazard on a fire escape route.
The 15mm quoted in Part M is an already defined compliant detail.

I think I know what you mean about the u-shape - kind of like extending a hat on three sides out of four if I understand you correctly?
Yes I think that would be perfect as long as it didn't result in a porch greater than 2.0M in area.

I cannot recall any porch doors opening out from memory, plenty of sliders though.

HTH

ONQ.

[broken link removed]


----------



## sligo camper (28 Jan 2010)

yes, i have a problem with my front mahogony door as well. When put in, i was dissapointed with the type of rubber that was inseted in the groove of the frame, quite flimsy. The mahogony door, went out of shape at the bottom third, on the ope side. i eventually got it replaced with the dead lock system (3 bolts) to help with the situation. Alas the same thing has happened again and even with the 3 bolts being engaged, there still is a gap where the wind can blow in. i put on a simple brass shoot bolt which has helped but would prefer a more permanent anwser

any suggestions?


----------



## suzie (5 Nov 2010)

Just revisiting this again,

I'm aware the outer enclosed porch would be the best desired solution, but if that turns out to be a non-runner from the view of money and/or the final appearance of porch (ie it wont look right), would replacing the existing wooden door/frames with a suitable pvc double/tripled glaased unit add much of an improvement in terms of seals? I know we'll still have the existing heat lost when the door is open etc but when the door remains closed have any people experienced a useful improve to their "similar" situation?

Thanks
S.


----------



## PetPal (5 Nov 2010)

D8Lady said:


> If you just want it as a winter measure, get an oversized heavy curtain ( on sale now) and one of those self supported shower curtains across the inside of the door. Keeps the drafts out very well.
> Makes a 3 degree difference in heat in my hallway.


 
I've thought of doing this myself.  When you say "one of those self supported shower curtains ..." do you mean the springloaded bype that you just extend to the desired length? Thanks.


----------



## Eithneangela (5 Nov 2010)

We have heavy curtains on all doors and windows - makes a huge difference in winter.  Batten down the hatches as soon as the clock goes back - and it's a far cheaper way of achieving the desired result.  Make sure the curtains are longer than the door so that there is a pool of material acting as a draught excluder at the bottom. Most shops now offering discounts on curtains - I've always found Guineys in Talbot St. to be the best for price, availability and suitability.


----------



## fluffy47 (6 Nov 2010)

We bought a curtain pole last year ....cut it to size and hung heavy eyelet curtains on it. Reason for picking eyelet curtains is that you can put both curtains that you will buy onto the pole alternating the eyelets...this leaves you with extra heavy full curtains on the double.


----------

