# Solid Fuel Stove.



## mildew

Hi,

I am considering replacing my existing open fire (No Gas or oil) with a Stanley solid fuel stove (or similar). 
Would it be a simple job for the " Not so bad" D.I.Y.er or would you suggest getting someone in to do the work?

Am I correct in assuming that its just a matter of removing the fire surround and insert, A touch of re-plastering and putting the flue up the existing chimney? Or am I just being a bit too optomistic?

Any help greatly appreciated,
Thank you.


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## Tizzy

Hi there

We have recently had a solid fuel Stanley Stove fitted into a newly built extension.  The chimney was built with the stove measurements in mind at the time.  I think your best bet would be to talk to one of the Waterford Stanley suppliers - you can get a list of these in your area when you ring Waterford Stanley.  They supply the stove, and then have their fitters come out to install, so preferably ask can you speak to one of the fitters if they're around.  Bear in mind that there is a) the cost of the stove and b)the cost for the flue and fitting (this alone was around e650 mark plus vat!  Have yet to see how well the stove works as we're moving in soon -  fingers crossed!


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## Black Sheep

We replaced our open fire with Stanley Oisin solid fuel heater a last year. While hubby is a DIYer we got the heating contractors where we purchased it to install it for us. We were concerned about all that mystique about chimneys etc.
The results are brilliant. It burns anything and gives out fantastic heat in a room 24ft.x12ft.
They do an enamelled version which in my opinion is worth the extra cost - looks good and easy to clean


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## SunnyH

I bought a Oisin stove too just last week, I hope to connect it to an existing fireplace.  I'm not much good at DIY so I called a few professionals.  The stove cost 399 in MD O Sheas in Ballincollig looks like it might cost the same again to get the thing installed.  or even more.... I've no clue I'll post my findings here afterwards,


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## lou 013

Checked out MD O' Sheas - sales staff very helpful, called the man they recommend for installing and received a quote of 800 Euro,this included the flue and fitting, this seems very expensive, anyone had any quotes for the same.


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## selfbuild99

hi blacksheep, was thinking of going for the enamel version as well but i heard it can chip easy, anyone else experience this?


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## bogota400

Currently looking into getting a solid fuel stove.  The models I have been considering so far are the [broken link removed] (71% efficiency/6kW output) at €822 or [broken link removed] (72% efficency/7kW output) @ €885. These are supply only prices.  Still have to cover cost of new insert and installation.

The Stanley seems very cheap by comparison. Does anyone have an efficiency rating for it (can't seem to find it on their website)?
Does the glass stay clean?
Have you all been advised to swap out insert? Also, what other stoves did you consider and why did you end up going with the Stanley?


EDIT - Stanley confirmed efficiency ratings for Oisin as follows;
Burning smokless fuel 77%​ Burning  Wood 73.9 %​


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## phester

I have the Oisin. and the glass will blacken to the sides. It gives out loads of heat. We do reduce the air when the room gets warm which I believe will cause the glass to stain as you have lower burn temperatures at the slow burn. The glass is easy to clean with a baby wipe and we clean it every 4 or 5 fires just for effect. A good fire in the stove will also clean the glass as it will burn off the soot on the glass too. (not spotless though)


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## rosswind

Bought the same oisin stanley in MD o'shea's this time last year. Also bought the flue as part of a package with all the connecting bits which cost over E1000! My builder buddy gave me a dose of abuse and I brought everything back bar the stove! Turns out you can buy all the flues/connectors for a fraction of the price at a good plumbers merchants e.g. Heiton Buckley (no affiliation). I saved a couple of hundred euros so it's worth shopping around. Also I fitted it myself, with a hangover, so might be worth considering if you feel DIY confident.


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## bogota400

rosswind said:


> ..bought the flue as part of a package with all the connecting bits which cost over E1000! .


   A €1000! I'm assuming you have an older fireplace/chimney - and had to run flue all the way up right?

The Oisin is far and away cheaper than any of the others and I can't see the down side. Little or no difference in energy efficiency % and no major issue with glass as confirmed by phester above. Can anyone else see a reason for the price difference?

Anyone any idea of the approximate cost of the short length of flue that would be needed to reach existing lined chimney flue (just a couple of feet long)??


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## lyonsie

We had an 'Erin' Stanley, enamel, fitted years ago.   Fantastic heat, hot water and 6 rads...  We had it fitted into an existing fireplace.   All went well until it had to be cleaned... Could not get anyone to clean it as you need to have a soot box installed, either inside or on your outside wall.   An extra expense but look into it.


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## newext

While you're on the subject I really want to get a small solid fuel stove for my new extension but want to know if I really need a chimney or can I just use the narrow pipe(is it the flue?). Just not sure if its possible to use with solid fuel.


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## rosswind

As far as I can remember the flue cost in the region of E40 per metre. I decided to go all the way to the top through paranoia as much as anything else. However in theory it should be easier to clean as a result. With regard to putting a stove in without a chimney there is no problem with running the flue through a wall or ceiling/roof but I don't know the regs re: outside height clearance, insulation passing through the wall/ceiling/roof etc.


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## blackburst

I have been quoted 499 for the stanley oisin and 1200 for installation from lamartine fireplaces!!!? Seems pretty steep for installation into an existing fireplace. Has anyone got an average installation price to use as a reference? Also, does anyone have contact details for an stove installer based in dublin?


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## Swallows

Hi, we are at the same thing here. Want to install some sort of heat in the kitchen which only has a radiator. We feel that we may as well install something that will do more than one job such as heat the radiators, water, or maybe even cook on. We have no chimney but local plumbers can supply factory flue. We dont want to spend an arm and a leg ( unless we decide to buy a range ) and have limited space in the kitchen. The stoves are in the region of €1,000. The range would no doubt cost €3000. upwards. Are we on the right track here because we dont know much about the subject and know even less about installation costs but would like to get it done before the winter. Is there anyone out there who does this work and can advise on this forum how to go about it. Thanks.


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## bizzy2

Any idea of the current price of the Stanley Oisin enamel finish?


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## Mary Jones

Hi all we are looking to put in a stove in an existing fireplace too but toying with the idea of putting in a back boiler to heat water and rads downstairs or just have it as a space heater - at the moment we have an oil central heating system and the rads can be turned off upstairs with a separate switch.  I've heard of conflicting reports.

How big a job is it to put in the back boiler?

Also from an asthetic point of view we don't have a chimney breast in the room as it's on the outside of the house anyone any ideas for a finish for the stove.


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## OCY

bogota400 said:


> Currently looking into getting a solid fuel stove. The models I have been considering so far are the [broken link removed] (71% efficiency/6kW output) at €822 or [broken link removed] (72% efficency/7kW output) @ €885. These are supply only prices. Still have to cover cost of new insert and installation.
> 
> Where are you getting the prices from.  I am interested in Fitting the Esse 350


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## Black Sheep

Forget the back boiler unless you own a coal yard and enjoy cleaning out ashes and dust all over the place. As per my previous post we had back boilers in our current house and the previous one. Both were useless, we had lukewarm radiators and very poor heat from fire

The enamel version of the Stanley Oisin was about €150 extra but was well worth it. Looks good and is easy to clean


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## tara83

> The enamel version of the Stanley Oisin was about €150 extra but was well worth it. Looks good and is easy to clean


 
My mother has a small Stanley stove - think it's the Foinn.  It's about 8years old. The enamel has started to chip - Stanley weren't interested and say they advise that it will happen over time.  Also it is not a cost effective job to get it repaired. So check before you purchase


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## crox225

Hi guys,

interesting reading! Well i had an open fireplace until last October ish...usually id have to spend shed loads on coal just to keep the living room warmish, seemed all the heat went right up the chimney.  I looked around at solid fuel stoves and as a single parent, thought i cant afford these yokes...I went on e bay and found one which had a 16kw output...for about 550 odd euro...almost half price considering some stores prices..so i bought it, cost 50 sterling to ship it over from scotland. I knocked down some of the old chimney surround and discussed with my local builders merchant that the existing chimney will be sound to use, so i installed the stove myself, very very heavy, but as i live alone had no choice, so alot of dragging and heaving and few mistakes installing it, mainly due to bad measuring by me..and realising that i should have rendered the behind instead of plastering it, huge crack now, but the heat that comes out of the stove is impressive, best thing i ever done, as i can burn anything in the fire and even when its down low, the iron remains hot for ages and is very cost effective...hope that helps somewhat, no way in the world could i afford the costly pipe stuff going up the chimney but ive checked the chimney when the stove was on and lots of smoke coming out of the top, so i guess its all ok...

Phil


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## NoviceDIY'er

_"a few mistakes installing it, mainly due to bad measuring by me..and realising that i should have rendered the behind instead of plastering it, huge crack now"_

I am just installing a stanley Oisin in the next few days, i took out a back boiler which was rubbish and fireplace and am inserting the stove - to finish off the fireplace/surround i was just going to put plasterboard on the old fireplace walls, skim over it and paint it (it will be about 10 inches from the stove) ....... would this be ok or would it crack also ?.

I was also going to put a timber beam/mantle piece over the stove - about 2 and 1/2feet  - would this be ok also ?


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## crox225

hi there, not sure how far the gap between stove and walls should be, im sure you can google to get more advice on that, i have a 8 x 8 timber mantle above mine which is about 2 feet above the stove and had no probs with that at all, even though a friend of mine said it wud be too low, but is fine.  Due to lack of space and not intending to pull the whole chimney breast down, is why my stove is so close to the wall, to get proper heat from all areas around the stove then a gap i guess is need at the back too from the wall.  I was told that to render using more sand than cement i think a mix of 5 - 1 was mentioned to render wud be  better to use than plaster due to heat. I am going to take my stove down again before winter and look at using heat resistant tiles behind the stove, nice small red ones i think wud look nice, but as i said im very limited to space, unless i want my stove in the middle of the room lol.. but reading some of the posts, to pay someone hundreds of pounds to install it is madness, i did it myself in a weekend, and its working fine, so why not DIY, i just need a course in measuring lol..

phil


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## NoviceDIY'er

Thanks for that ! ...... Stove will be in front of the fireplace (on old hearth), and I want to finish off old fireplace to look like the rest of the chimney breast (finished and painted ). I cant go much wider due to lentil and if i put blocks/bricks it will make to opening too small.
All that will be in there is a space - flue coming out the back of stove and up the chimney.
Someone said earlier that it was like a furnace in your front room so I'm a bit hesitant.

Also have some questions regarding the flue's  (5" for an Oisin)- do i use cast iron ones or steel (or whatever the alternative) and where is the best place to get them?. If I get cast iron will what will support the weight as it has to come out back, 90 degree bend and another straight to reach chimney.
Then chimney is 8" or 9", all questions which I wouldnt ask only its related to fire !


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## crox225

i guess that you will be bricking up the old fireplace otherwise you will get a draught coming down the chimney, what i did was when i bricked up the old fireplace, i measured the height so that the outlet pipe from the stove going into the chimney was resting on a brick, so that supported the weight.  You will need some fire cement to make sure the pipes are connected and sealed properly, i havent sealed mine with cement yet as i knew that i needed to take the fire out again.  If you have  a co-op stores near you, they sell all the cast iron pipes that you will need, just specify what size you need.  Cast iron is expensive, i think one pipe, an extension to go into the chimney breast cost 70 odd euro, and was only 24 inches long, but the co-op says thay will take it back if u dont need it.  I didnt use pipes up the chimney itself, i asked at the builders merchants and they said if the chimney is lined then it will be fine.  and the smoke seems to come out fine, so i guess its working, i dont know how or when it will need cleaning, as in like the old fireplace wud need a sweep every now and again, but i swept mine myself before installing the stove.


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## NoviceDIY'er

I wasn't going to brick it up - I was going to seal around the flue once it went into the chimney  to stop draft coming down - and then finish off the old fireplace / rectangle with plaster board, then skim and plaster it leaving it there.

Space would be left where old fireplace was and finished off the same as the chimney breast and all you could see was the flue going in and up inside the fireplace - hope I'm explaining this right. That is why I am asking about supporting the flue ? and the other option MD O'Shea said was steel and not as heavy as cast iron


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## DavyJones

NoviceDIY'er said:


> I wasn't going to brick it up - I was going to seal around the flue once it went into the chimney  to stop draft coming down - and then finish off the old fireplace / rectangle with plaster board, then skim and plaster it leaving it there.
> 
> Space would be left where old fireplace was and finished off the same as the chimney breast and all you could see was the flue going in and up inside the fireplace - hope I'm explaining this right. That is why I am asking about supporting the flue ? and the other option MD O'Shea said was steel and not as heavy as cast iron




It's black hardened  steel to cope with the high temperture from solid fuel. You could get a bracket.


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## NoviceDIY'er

Is that blackened hardened steel called "Vitreous Enamel" ? and is it alot cheaper and lighter than the cast iron ?, where do you get it - MD O'Shea's were a ridiculous price according to previous threads I read.

What keeps the 5" flue in the chimney ?, do you just pack around it with Rockwool or do you get an adapter ? (to expand 5" to 9" chimney pot ?


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## DavyJones

Vitreous enamel is a finish the flue comes in to match stove. The black steel is just that, black steel. you can go staright into the 9 inch flue and seal well. If you flue assembly has any elbows, be sure and fit one with a cleaning hatch.


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## NoviceDIY'er

Was going to put a 90 Degree T (instead of a bend) and put a cap on the bottom part so I could clean chimney through it and also let it act as a collector for soot.

So I just have to make sure it is steel and suitable for a multi-fuel stove ?

Regarding the wall/fireplace behind - is it ok to leave plasterboard and skim over it, is plasterboard fireproof and safe behind a stove ? , would it crack with heat ?


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## dingbat

Just a quick post on the metal flue's, I have one out through the kitchen on a retro fitted solid fuel stove & in winter the flue gets cold, inhibiting the flow of gasses up the chimney, basically you end up with a plug of cold air in the flue that the warm air cant push up, this leads to a build up of carbon monoxide in the firebox.

Get a CO alarm, if your going to go down this route.


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## GoldWings

Hello

My dad recently got a local hanyman to install a Mulberry Yeats stove with a back boiler. Before that he had an open fire with a back boiler and now, for the 1st time ever, the house is actually comfortably warm and the water is hot too. It's a revelation and he's delighted. 

So i am interested in doing something similar; except I have to work with an unsightly Baxi Bermuda back boiler conversion. Essentially it's a back bolier with a gas firefront. 
Has anyone on AAM done this? I am conscious of cost, but I really don't like open gas fires or gas fires of any sort. Of course, if it saves me a few grand, then I will have to go for the gas fire option - probably an insert fire. 
The Baxi Bermuda seems to have been very popular in the 80s - I am sure that someone has removed one. I am calling around and arranging appointements with professionals etc... but I use AAM alot for information and I hope that someone can give me some advice.


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## lamb

*Re: Solid Fuel  Oisin Stove ( boiler model)*

Hi All

I have been reading this thread with a bit of interest.

I going to start a liitle refurb job on the house in 2 week's time and trying to figure out( or is it worth my while) how to install an oisin stove with boiler as I don't want to waste all that energy.

Anyways.. my plan is to chase the chimmney breast to install some data and power cabling, so was just wondering what I need in term of plumbing to get the boiler up and running.

Q) should i use 1" copper back or qualplex back to hotpress. 

Q) do i need a particular size hotwater tank and any special fiittings

Q) the house is standard 3 bed semi with a total of 8 rads, so i don't think the oisin can drive that many but don't want to put a bigger stove in as the sitting room is only 3.5m X5.0 m and a bigger stove would be to warm for the room.. what are my options?.. will the rads only get luke warm??. 

What do you think Davy?.

Maybe a list of pro and cons from somebody that already has one installed would be good,as i a bit of a novice on stoves with boiler's on how to get them working .

Hope my query makes since.

regards
L


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## DavyJones

Q)1 Has to be copper, it will have to be able to cope with extreme tempertures.
       The loop between stove and cylinder has to be uninteruppted I.E No valves, etc.

Q)2  A dual coil cyliner, one coil for every heat source I.E one for stove, one for oil/gas   boiler. Non returns valves will have to be fitted to both stove circuit (after cylinder) and boiler (oil or gas) this will prevent one heating the other when on. This is a huge waste of energy. EG when the boiler is on, you don't want it sending hot water through stove, treating it like a large radiator, all the heat would just go up the chimney.  (if it is heating cylinder only, this won't be an issue)

Is your home zoned. I.E can you seperate upstairs heating from downstairs?
Do you have a sealed or vented system?

Seal system = gauge somewhere maybe on boiler and filling loop, auot filling valve, no small tank in attic.

Or 

Vented systen = small tank in attic.

What you could do is just get a stove with a boiler large enough to heat the cylinder only.

Do you plan on doing it yourself?


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## lamb

Hi Davy

Thanks for the very prompt response

A part of my refurb, it is the plan to install 2 zones, currently GAS BAxi boiler is driving all the rads..so no zones at the moment. will 3/4 copper be big enough from fireplace to cylinder?

so to get the boiler working it's looks like i will have to replace my existing hot water tank with a dual coil cylinder.. this sounds expensive?? :-(.

I guess i have a sealed system as can't remember seen a small tank in the attic.

I'm interested to know what you mean by 

"What you could do is just get a stove with a boiler large enough to heat the cylinder only".

Will the oisin not be stong enough to heat both water and rads at same time, as that was my main objective

I wishing i could do it myself, but as you might have gather by some of my questions (and even answers) my knowledge is limited to say the least.

thanks again
L


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## fmc

Good replies as usual from davy only thing i would add lamb is that if you put a small stove/boiler on to a big system it may not even get the rads lukewarm but more importantly it would mean the return water to your stove is quite cold and take the heat of the fire resulting in an ineffiecient burn and constant blacking of the glass on the stove. 
Either have a zoned system where you can have 2-3 rads on at a time ( expensive to retrofit if not already done), have a big enough stove to do the whole house but possibly overheat the room, or just get your hot water and room heat with it.


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## DavyJones

You can't connect back boiler (stove) to sealed system. you can quite cheaply un seal it (vented system)

As fmc says, you could get a stove that just heats the space it is in and the cylinder full of water.

To allow for natural circulation, the pipe size will have to be atleast 1". It(the pipe) will have to rise continuously from top pipe of stove to top pipe of cylinder (flow pipe).

When we fit them in a house with zones, we bypass one zone control, as when the pipe stat activates the pump, it needs to have a free area to pump to, and if stats on those zones are not calling for heat they will be closed. 

A stove would heat one zone, probably not two, this will be ok as zone two will be closed anyway. Sorry for probably making it sound complicated.

A dual coil cylinder is about €160 max depending on size.

I would advice against doing it your self, I have seen many plumbers get this wrong, a DIYer has little chance of success I'm afraid. It could be dangerous if not done correctly.


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## estherm1

Hi Guys
You can get a stove to connect to a sealed heating system a Turbo Stove.
It is designed with a closed circuit which is stainless steel.
The stove is temperature controlled so this gives it a slow burn time with an efficiency of 87%.
It comes in a variety of sizes and is guaranteed to heat all your rads.


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## marcole

There are some solid fuel stoves and pellet stoves on the Kedco.com website and they have greta technical support as well as cheap prices, check them out. You are supposed to put in a flue, a 6m high one for an exisiting chimney was around 500 euro with all the connections etc..


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## marcole

Ye should check the flue is twin walled, it is supposed to be for all solid fuel stoves?


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## sion40

I am also interested in installing the Solid fuel Stanley Oisin, a friend of mine has one and the heat out of it is great. I do a small bit of DIY myself and I have asked a few people on installing it including shop assistants and it seems managable. 
You can get a 8" to 6" fitting to connect to your chimney pot and then you need flue pipe to connect from the stove to the 90 degree bend and more flue pipe to connect from the bend to your reducer fitting in the chimney pot. 
The quote I have received is €450 for stove about €120 for the accessories. 

Has anyone installed a stove the way I described, would appreciate feedback on the pros and cons

Thanks


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## leex

I have a Nestor Martin stove installed by myself for about 5 years and working fine. Stove retailer (who is also a wholesaler) said I didn't need a steel flue - reading the above it sounds like it should be. Opinions please?


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## mosstown

removed to H&G general instead of Home Energy


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## donall

*Installing a stove - do i need a new flue?*

Folks, 

I would be very grateful for your advice. 
I cleared out a gas fireplace and have bought a stanley oisin. 
2 lenghts of enamal pipe/flue were supplied with the unit which fits into the existing flue by about an inch.

The stanley pipe/flue is 5" wheras the existing chimney flue is just over 8" in diameter. For this reason i will install a connector between the 2.

My question - do I need to install a new flexible flue all the way up the chimney. The official stanley distributor has said not necessary while someone chimney technicians online have advised fitting a flue with the same width as the stanley flue. The cost of getting 8m installed could cost up to a €800 so I woudl like to avoid if possible.

Thanks,
Donal


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## bamboozle

leex said:


> I have a Nestor Martin stove installed by myself for about 5 years and working fine. Stove retailer (who is also a wholesaler) said I didn't need a steel flue - reading the above it sounds like it should be. Opinions please?


 

as far as i know the flu which is inside the house can be a normal black flu (not sure if its enamel or steel) but then any parts of flu that are on the outside need to be twin insulated, the reason for this being so the flu does not heat up on the outside...

at least the above was how my plumber explained to us when he installed.
must say our stove is my favourite part of our house now


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## briquettes

bizzy2 said:


> Any idea of the current price of the Stanley Oisin enamel finish?


I was quoted 899 Euro today for the Oisin enamel version, the matt black was quoted at 449 Euro. can anyone explain the price difference. I looked up the stanley web site and the enamel version is 899 Euro. 
What is happening - I considered a possible 200 Euro price increase. but this is crazy...


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## serotoninsid

briquettes said:


> I was quoted 899 Euro today for the Oisin enamel version, the matt black was quoted at 449 Euro. can anyone explain the price difference. I looked up the stanley web site and the enamel version is 899 Euro.
> What is happening - I considered a possible 200 Euro price increase. but this is crazy...


It's been discussed previously.

This should help you decide.


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## connport

serotoninsid said:


> It's been discussed previously.
> 
> Am looking to fit an oisin stove too. I've my local stockist telling me I need the stove (€299 with ploughing match voucher), connection kit (€120 and fireback/fireplace blank (€80) + installation if I don't diy it.
> 
> Question is, do I need the fireback or is that just cosmetic? looks like the stove itself will sit nicely in front of the current ope. Any comments?
> 
> Thanks


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## ChimneySafe

My understanding is that you need the fireback to be able to cope with the high burning temperatures.


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## hastalavista

connport said:


> serotoninsid said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's been discussed previously.
> 
> Am looking to fit an oisin stove too. I've my local stockist telling me I need the stove (€299 with ploughing match voucher), connection kit (€120 and fireback/fireplace blank (€80) + installation if I don't diy it.
> 
> Question is, do I need the fireback or is that just cosmetic? looks like the stove itself will sit nicely in front of the current ope. Any comments?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> fireback/fireplace blank
> whats the difference here?
> 
> is stove an insert or free standing?
Click to expand...


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## MightyMeath!

I haven't read all the comments but my house was built with a 22inch open fire i think ! Due to 80% Of the heat going up the chimney we decided to get a stanley stove , 2nd smallest room heater. Removing most fire back wasnt that hard and i let the flue glue up nicely. Now i have a greater outer of heat at a lot cheaper cost


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## rayn

Just finixhed the same job:
Break out existing fireplace and install new stove and lining including cowl =€1000
Installed Clearview Vision 500 steel stove, matt black and extremely satisfied.we put in a new hearth and fireplace for approx €1400
Best of Luck.


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## Silvergirl

Ours is a Mulberry from MD OSheas Ballincollig. Cost us 136 for the flue and the reducer. We got Classic fireplaces in Little Island to fit the stove for us when they fitted the fireplace, Arthur there - they also sell stoves at a similar price to MD O'Sheas. Paid 399 I think for the stove, can't remember the fitting cost but very little as he was installing the fireplace at the same time. Might be worth getting a price off them too for the whole lot. You may need a spinning cowl for the chimney too that cost us €83 in the co-op but it depends on the draft on your chimeny and wind etc. Wind was blowing down our chimney and blowing smoke into the room. They are great though and we wouldn't be without it.


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## seantheman

[QUOTE

Am looking to fit an oisin stove too. I've my local stockist telling me I need the stove (€299 with ploughing match voucher), [/QUOTE]

Was the Oisin not exempted from the ploughing show vouchers?


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## Xennon

Howdy folks, 
Put in a stove last year, best thing we ever did. Anyway I did tons of research on installing them as there were some discrepancies on how to do this properly depending on who you talk to.

What you have to be aware of is that the temperature of the gasses from the stove are much higher than those from a normal fireplace. Also need to be aware that creosote and other gunk is created from the burning of woods and other fuels.

Another point to be aware of is that each stove is designed to work with a flue of a specific diameter for optimum performance. This is usually the diameter of the connection on the stove for the flue. The reason for this is that it creates a known rate of draught for the stove, I imagine.

After doing alot of reading I decided to not follow what alot of sales people are saying and just put in a short flue into the existing flue and pack it in or use adaptors to your old flu, I ran a single all flexi flue all the way down into the stove. Conencted at the top to the cowl and the chimney was then packed with vermiculite. This meant that I didnt have to worry about gunk building up in places I couldnt get at, and that I didnt have to worry about the existing flues condition.

There is alot of information on boards.ie about this as it has been discussed and explained to death there and I would advise anyone considering it to find the long thread about it. Its late and Im heading to bed in a minute so I dont have time at the moment to locate it.

The short of it is to use a liner from the stove to the cowl at the top of the chimney, this negates alot of messing about with adapters and short liners which in my opinion are asking for a chimney fire. Remember if the gunk in the chimney is allowed to build up it WILL eventually go on fire. I dont really care what the guy in the shop says, their job is to sell stoves, and they have little to no qualifications in this area.

Glukk with it.


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