# Key Post: Insulation



## sueellen (1 Mar 2004)

Hi,
I bought a house in September. Its an old house and is cold and draughty. We have received lots of advice on how to insulate it but some of it is contradictory. Some people say to use those companies that fill the external cavity walls with expandable foam. Others say to use Kingspan insulation materials to insulate the inside walls. Can we use both methods ? I have been warned that the foam method can cause rising damp but I am not sure why. I have been told to replace the double glazed windows (some are damaged) but I dony know if this will make a huge difference. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Declan.


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## <A HREF=http://pub145.ezboard.com/baskaboutmoney.s (1 Mar 2004)

*Re: Insulation*

Make sure that the attic is insulated and all draughty doors/windows are attended to first - this is relatively cheap and easy to do and can improve matters significantly.

There were some discussions about cavity and other types of wall insulation here on AAM but I can't find them right now 'm afraid...


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## paddyirishman (2 Mar 2004)

*Insulation*

existing double glazed windows can be adjusted to reduce any air infirtration.

installing insulation to the inside of the external walls is the best option - the advantage is the house warms up quickly but will reduce quickly once the heating is turned off.

The disadvantage is existing radiators, ceiling cornices, etc will have to be slightly moved to allow for the insulation. there's no reason why insulation can't be installed both in the cavity and internally once a vapour barrier is installed inside the plasterboard. this option is the best if you can afford it. the best insulation is polyurathane.


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## ajapale (2 Mar 2004)

*Insulation*

A frequent unregestered poster "Hienbloed" reccomends blocking off the open fireplace if you have one. He has a point and it is worth considering.

Ajapale


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## <A HREF=http://pub145.ezboard.com/baskaboutmoney.s (2 Mar 2004)

*Re: Insulation*

Be careful about sealing chimneys/fireplaces completely if (a) there is no other ventilation (e.g. wall vents) in the room (e.g. an old house) and/or (b) you operate gas or certain other types of appliances in the home.


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## Declan (2 Mar 2004)

*Insulation - fireplace*

Heinbloed, I understand now why there is a need to close the fireplace. You are right, I have often noticed a huge breeze coming in the sitting room door on its way to the fireplace and up the chimney along with most of the heat from the fire. I find that if I close the sitting room door that the smoke starts billowing out into the sitting room. Its as if it needs this draft to create enough upflow.
The 'eating the jumper' metaphor is excellent and makes sense. I will look at getting these foam beads pumped into the cavity walls. Thanks again.


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## paddyirishman (3 Mar 2004)

*Insulation - fireplace*

Quick reply:

A vapour barrier prevents any vapour entering the insulation which could cause condensation occurring when it condenses. There’s two solutions, either buy a polyethylene sheet (tape joints) and fix it to the timber /metal studs before the plasterboard or buy aluminium foil backed plasterboard.

Regarding the fireplace – a better solution than closing the fireplace completely is to install a fire damper. Close it when the fireplace is not in use to prevent cold air entering the house.


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## propertynewbie (3 Mar 2004)

*Re: Insulation - fireplace*

paddyirishman, just on the vapour barrier, do you mean put in on the wall then put the batons and plasterboard ?. I am in the process of putting in internal instulation and have just been battoning to the wall, putting insutlation in between the batons and then putting on plasterboard ?. Will this cause a problem ?


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## paddyirishman (3 Mar 2004)

*Re: Insulation*

The vapour barrier is installed just before you fix the plasterboard. The joints should be taped......An easier solution is to install foil backed plasterboard.

The vapour barrier is only required to the external walls.


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## Mary (4 Mar 2004)

*Insulation*

This is a big problme in Ireland because it it a damp and cold country therefore buyers beware of purchasing old hourse no end of problems with cold and damp in it.  Is it worth it better to buy a new house but there again other problems again with noise from next door neighbours.


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## paddyirishman (4 Mar 2004)

*Insulation*

Any problem in the construction industry can be designed around by selecting the correct materials / products. Dampness in old buildings or a noise problem in a new building can be avoided - and should be according to the new building regulations.


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## Laoise (4 Mar 2004)

*vapour barriers*

Don't forget that if you build in a vapour barrier inside the house, then the vapour in your rooms cannot get out.
You have constantly high moisture levels inside unless you have an automatic air-exchange system or unless you open the windows fairly regularly !
Otherwise you will end up buying one of these expensive dehumidifiers for every room or dealing with a lot of horrid mould growth.
Laoise


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## Penny Foolish (4 Mar 2004)

*.*

*Now, Declan , if you find any suplier of triple glazing let us know , there is a market here*

Heinbloed, do you mean it is difficult to find suppliers of triple glazing in Ireland? I'm hoping to put it in a new house I'm building


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## Once Bitten (5 Mar 2004)

*attic*

Speaking of shortage of suppliers, does anyone know of Munster-based suppliers of attic insulation materials other than the fibre based materials.  Any suppliers I have checked with in Munster only supply the fibre materials.


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## sueellen (25 Jul 2004)

*Some other posts*

*FuriousHarry
Unregistered User
Cavity Wall*

Hi,

I'm trying to get my head around the area of Insualtion. 
On architects sample plans he tends to go with a cavity wall of 4inch block, 4 inch cavity, and 4 inch Block = Totaling 1 foot cavity wall.

A Blockie friend is going to lay the blocks for me, and has said that he mostly comes across Aeroboards as insulation.

I've been reading alot of SEI's recomendations for insulation, and how good insulated walls can make large saving in the long term.

My questions are:

What are the common/good insulation products out there ? Any good site (with info / Prices / Advice )

Is the 4 - 4 - 4 Cavity wall sufficient- is it the norm ?

How are wall ties affected by the different types of insulation ?

What would you do if in my position ?

-----------------------------------------------------

My overall plan is to have a 2200sq foot 2 storey house, Well insulated ie with good heat, mayby solar panels etc. but I am wondering just home much extra all this costs.

I'm keen on an open fire in the sitting room, with no back boiler, I think it add character to a room. 

Any compromise that you know of that will allow me to have my open fire and still be energy efficient ?

Is having good cavity and underfloor insulation a waste of time when there is an open fire in the room ?

Thanks a mill.

FuriousD. 

*Alpha
Unregistered User
Open Fire & Insulation*.

I don't think good cavity and underfloor insulation is ever a waste of time.

An option with open fires is to close them off when not in use. A piece of aeroboard cut to fit inside the fireplace at the base of the chimney neck is an option.

two things though...
1. Always puch some holes through the board to allow some air up the chimney. If you don't, condensation can form inside the chimney and leak as damp spots on the wall.

2. always hang something from the board so that you do not forget it is there. You really don't want to light a fire with the aeroboard still in place. 

*heinbloed
Unregistered User
Open Fire&Insulation*

Alpha gave you good advice.A hole in the wall is not energy saving for the room.A 30cm thick wall is at the very bad end of the building regulations-but still legal.Remember that the building regulations set minimum standards-they are no advice concerning the optimum what can be achieved.If you still have the choice and want to go for a solid wall than you should consider a brick that trades under the name of "poroton".
There is an Irish company trading in these terracotta blocks called FBT.Under [broken link removed] you get some information.These blocks are more expensive per piece but since you save the double block plus the aeroboard they come actually cheaper per square meter of wall.
The latest I heard of poroton is that the discounter Lidl is building their new supermarkets with them,calculating sharply.Erection time is much faster than with the cavity wall system.U-values(heat insulation) are certainly better.

*gortfad
Registered User
Noise insulation between floors*

Currently building a house and not too far from first floor level which will be joists with wooden floors on top. Does anybody have any recommendations what I could put between the joists as noise insulation. 

*nixer
Unregistered User
insulation*

floating first floor construction, with Rockwool or similar between the joists, above a double-skin skimmed plasterboard ceiling if noise is a particular concern. Could also lay a fibrous blanket draped over the top of the joists. 

*fatherdougalmaguire
Frequent poster
Re: Noise insulation between floors*

Another one I read about in all my researching was to use sand. Of course, this can weigh an incredible amount so the joists might have to be fairly substantial. The idea is to have trays sitting between the joists and then fill them with sand. I'll try and dig-out some more details if I can. 

*hooper
Posts: 178*

Can anyone enlighten me as to what "floating first floor construction means"? 

*heinbloed
Unregistered User
soundproofing*

Fatherdougalmaguire is right, but mix in some shovels of cement and moisten it slightly , very slightly ,otherwise the mixture will behave like the sand in an egg timer . 

*nixer
Unregistered User
insulation etc*

floating floor construction is not as dramatic as it sounds. 

essentially, an isolating layer is installed between the floor boards/finishes and the joists. this is usually a compressible material, thus serving to dampen the effects of noise/impact from floor to joists beneath. 

not keen on the use of sand, treated or not. heavy, prone to leaks inter alia... 

*Elcato
Moderator
Re: insulation etc*

You can also use a cork (not of the langer variety) type underlay which comes in a roll and is easy as lino to put down to dampen any sound. Its not too dear either afaik.


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## sueellen (25 Jul 2004)

*warmcosy
Unregistered User
New house insulation*

I am about to start building a new house and am trying to decide the best method for insulation.

I was going to use traditional cavity wall insulation (Kingspan 50MM) but several people have said to forget about this and use insulated plasterboard on the inner surface of all external walls in the house. I imagine that this would be fairly expensive for a 3200 sq foot house.

Also is it the best method for a house that will be heated by underfloor heating??
Would insulating the walls from the heat prevent them from acting as a heat store for the house??

I had a look at the thread on insulation for info on this but I didn't really get an answer!

Any help appreciated! 

*legend99*

Not an answer to your question...but a further question. How much is a 3200 square foot house working out at in terms of building costs??

Incidentally, my understanding was that the evolution of walls has been:

Solid walls as thick as you could make them

Then cavity block walls

Then two side by side walls with an air gap in between

Then came two side by side walls with aeroboard between them

And since then it has been the aeroboard that is getting thicker.

So not sure what might be better. But we had to dry line our old house with those foam backed platser boards...you can get 1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch foam backing I think. But you're right, it puts a serious cost onto the plaster board. To be honest, I thought if you have the two side by side walls with the 50mm or whatever it is of aeroboard that you really wouldn't need more foam on the back of the plaster board...but I'm no builder! 

*Laoise
Unregistered User
internal insulation*

Not a good idea.

It's hard not to get cold bridges where the internal walls meet the external wall.
Imagine two rooms side by side along the external wall. You insulate all around each of them on the inside. The dividing wall between the rooms is touching the cold external wall. There's no insulation outside the external wall - so the dividing wall is cold where it meets the external wall. Precisely there where the interior insulation has a corner join ..........
Not a good idea. 

*warmcosy
Unregistered User
Still having a cavity..*

Thanks for the comments so far!

legend99, I am budgeting for around €240,000 building by direct labour and I just hope that's enough. All the same I still don't want to skimp on the insulation.

Laoise, I may not have made it clear enough in my initial question but I still intend having a cavity wall but I just wouldn't put any insulation in it- I would use the insulated plasterboard instead on the inner surface of all external walls. 

*Laoise
Unregistered User
insulation*

OK, makes it slightly better - but you'll still get some cold-bridge effect. Anyway, seems a shame to build a cavity and not fill it. 
In principle, insulation is always more effective on the outside of the house. 
Generally, internal should only be used when other influences are in play - such as retro-insulating an old building where you can't change the facade to allow outside insulation etc.

While on the topic, don't forget to insulate under the floor - rarely done in Irish houses, but of enormous effect, especially if your'e installing under-floor heating. 

*John
Unregistered User
cavity block wall*

What exactly is a cavity block wall ? We have an old house with such walls (built 1960s). They said he have a cavity block wall and a honeycomb centre and an external leaf ?? We were trying to get pollypearl inserted but we cant. I dont understand it.

*heinbloed
Unregistered User
insulation*

Why going for cavity walls in the first place?Ask your engineer about the "dew point" and the reason why he thinks that there should be an outer leaf of blocks.It makes no sense except feeding some builders pocket .If the outer leaf of blocks is insulated by polyurethane from the inner wall it gives a calculate able better U-value,but just in calculations.For real comfort and energy saving it makes more sense to put the heat storage capacity(the solid wall) on the inside of the building and the insulation on the outside.Does a polar bear wear a second layer of flesh and bones on the outside?
Kingspan PU-boards are expensive ,go for expanded polystyrene boards,glued on the outer wall and plastered.
That is if you can't find a builder who can build a wall without concrete.Concrete is a bad insulator.
So if you have the choice don't waste the money on something that does not pay back.
Timber frame is better insulating than concrete.Poroton is something between timber frame and cavity wall.It allowes for moisture exchange(provided it is not sealed with cement plaster) and gives perfect insulation,far beyond building regs.And it has thermal mass and some sound insulation qualitys.All in one wall,without the need for extra artificial insulation.And due to it's fast erection time-and no drying time-it is cheaper than a cavity wall.
LIDL supermarkets here in Ireland are now being build with these blocks.They are able to calculate with a sharp pen if you know what I mean.
Check www.fbt.ie
I have no connections to the company except that I used these blocks for my own home and never regretted it.
And for your underfloor heating:a minimum of 55mm insulation is recommended by manufacturers,my advice is at least 110mm,manufacturers have a tendency to play down the costs if it is not their material -the insulation-that the costumer is spending money on.On the continent they have the same soil temperature as here,but 55mm insulation under a house is against the building regs.. 

*legend99
Posts: 395*

Hein,

I thought most builders in Ireland doing domestic house would go for the outer wall of solid block, with the aeroboard in the middle on those metal tie things and then an inner wall of solid block with the plaster board just on the inside of that inner wall?

Is that a crap way to build?....most domestic dwellings I have seen during the build are done like that no? 

*heinbloed
Unregistered User
cavity walls*

They are.These building methods where developed as standard when builders went abroad to find a job,when man hours where cheap and heating material-fuel-was cheap ,providing jobs in the bogs.The times have changed but builders are slow to change.I remember 20 years ago people did not believe that timber frame "works",the whole of the industry lamenting.20% of the buildings nowadays are build by this technic.In the beginning crews from the US and Canada and other countries where flown in to build a few timber frames.The same story with log homes 10 years ago.Actually the Lidl supermarket chain gets gangs from Germany flown in because the Germans are used to the poroton blocks,not because it is difficult to work with the material or because there is some trick.
Builders in Ireland don't have the theoretical background to change easily to new methods.On the continent an apprentice bricklayer learns for 3 years incl.schooling and if he wants to run his own company he needs a master degree.Another 2 years incl.school.This theoretical knowledge enables him-and more and more also HER-to do the necessary calculations like load bearing capacity and k-value etc..Ask an Irish bricky a question like what is the U-value of a wall or the wind stability.They do what they are used to ,hardly learning new things job wise during their lifetime.
I talked to a retired driver from Murphys Brewery.He worked there all his life,more than 40 years.And he told me that beer was made from hops as the main ingredient.Hops is the smallest amount of beer ingredients,the preservative.I did not want to insult the poor man and said nothing.But it shows how interested people are and how difficult it is for people to learn once they feel safe (by having a job).Especially when they are paid per laid block,plus per square foot of aeroboard and for every wire tie extra.If this job can be done with just one block ,well .....and than they are supported with " facts" and stories by the concrete and aeroboard industry,both been fined by the EU competition commissioner for defrauding the costumers.

And Mary Harney is asking us for suggestions......


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## sueellen (25 Jul 2004)

*Some other posts*

*geegee
Registered User
Part wall noise insulation*

Does anyone know if it is possible to insulate a party wall in a semi against noise migration? It is a modern semi with a paper-thin party wall so you can literally hear every sound. 

If it is possible how would one go about it and at what sort of cost? 

From a laypersons viewpoint, I was thinking about cladding the wall with insulated dry-lining??? Would this work? 


*fatherdougalmaguire
Frequent poster
Re: Part wall noise insulation*

Here's what I did.

Glued batons/studs (strips of timber) vertically at 15 inch intervals. Start off with timber at each extreme of the wall and work from one end to the other. Screw the timber to the wall until the glue (No More Nails or whatever takes your fancy) dries. Remove the screws when the glue is dries. Use cheapo decorators caulk/sealant to seal up the gaps between the timber and the walls.

Next step is to pack rockwool in between the studs. You might need to strip some of the rockwool off as it might be too deep. Depends on the depth of the timber that you used.

Next step is to screw plasterboard to the batons. Lay them vertically or horizontally. Seal up the gaps with caulk (don't forget the celing and floor gaps as well). After you've finished that layer, do another layer using the opposite orientation. Seal-up again.

Finally, plaster and paint it.

Variation 1:
Instead of gluing the batons to the existing wall, create a frame/lattice (just like a partition wall) and fix it to the walls at either end. This means that the new wall you're building will have minimal contact with the existing party wall. Pack the rockwool between this lattice and the party wall and then pack in between the studs as before.

Variation 2:
Pull off the existing plasterboard. Chances are it's just bonded on. Follow then with the first method or variation 1.

Extension to variation 2:
A large amount of sound probably travels in to the cavity between the ceiling and the floorboards above. You could take off some of the ceiling along the party wall and extend your sound-proofing up into that cavity.


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## sueellen (2 Oct 2004)

*Some other posts*

*svh
Unregistered User
(16/7/04 8:24 pm)
Wall cavity insulation*

Has anyone out there had it done?Referring to procedure where they pump material into walls.Is it good and is it expensive?Thanks. 

*sueellen
Moderator
Re: Wall cavity insulation*

A friend in the maintenance business does not think much of cavity wall insulation because he maintains that it is a bit hit and miss because the filler does not reach all the internal area because of blockages such as mortar etc. etc. and he also feels that it is expensive.

I did on the other hand see a programme on telly where a company in Galway were highly recommended and appeared to do a very good job in insulating a house with a serious problem

Hope I have not confused you even further but just looking at a few views/angles. Others here might provide some further info.  

*heinbloed
Unregistered User
cavity*

There is a download available [broken link removed]

I haven't done it but I am sure a good team can do it with out gaps.The more fill- in holes are drilled and used the better the coverage.Especially under sills and ring beams.Avoid material where the workers have to wear masks etc.,you have to live in it.I suppose polystyrene beads are the best material ,in case of renovations ( new doors,window openings)this material can be sucked out of the cavity and be reused. 


*beldin
Posts: 5
Re: Wall cavity insulation*

I had it done on a 3 bed semi-detached about 4 years ago and it was excellent. House held the heat for a lot longer , I had replaced windows already but the insulation of the walls and the attic made a big difference. Cost about £700 at the time for walls and attic. 

*heinbloed
Unregistered User
Wall cavity insulation*

Hi beldin !
Let us know which material was used -beads,fiber,foam...-and how much cavity there was to be filled.Thanks!


*beldin
Posts: 6
Re: Wall cavity insulation*

Sorry for the late reply. They used fiber glass which was shredded up and injected into the walls. Basically they drill a hole and pump the fibre in under pressure until the cavity is filled in that location. The drill every 5-6 feet and so they will cover most of the area. Obviously it is not as good as insulating when the house is built but in my case it was excellent and I would recommend it.  

*Mol
Registered User
Wall Cavity Insulation Grant*

Hi,

I have heard that there is a grant available for Wall Cavity insulation for houses built pre 1980 - does anybody know anything about this?

Regards,

Valerie. 

*Unregistered User
Wall Cavity Insulation Grant*

Can't see anything obvious here




*veron01
Posts: 78
Wall Cavity Insulation Grant*

As far as I am aware business' in Cavity Insulation got together and organised a grant (not a grant as per the County Council's). 
For example we were quoted €1,300 with €200 off. But when we went to an independant insulation guy in Carlow he quoted us €800.

A job well done.....

*Unregistered User
Wall Cavity Insulation Grant*

More of a discount than a grant presumably so?


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## sueellen (20 Nov 2004)

*silver lady
attic insulation*

I want to get new attic insulation for a 40 year old bungalow. Presently there's just the ceiling boards and a thin layer of insulation in the attic with no attic flooring. Understandably, the house can feel quite cold, even when the central heating in on.

Can anyone recommend what type or brand of insulation I should get to improve the situation?

Any recommendation and advice would be great.
Thanks. 

*sueellen
Moderator
Re: attic insulation*

This link 

Repairs and Improvement Heading - Insulate and save energy


*davelerave
Frequent poster
rockwool*

rockwool is what they're using now where i work.something like fibreglass you'd put it down yourself 

*Slash
Frequent poster
Re: attic insulation*

Recently, I put wool insulation in the attic, on top of a layer of old, fibregalss insulation. Purchased it from Sheep Wool Insulation in Rathdrum, Co. Wicklow (www.sheepwoolinsulation.ie). It's like a wool blanket, so is easy to work with. They are very pleasant people to work with, and they'll deliver to your door. You'll need a pair of heavy duty scissors to cut it, but that's all the equipment required.


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## sueellen (30 Jan 2005)

*Some other posts*

*Daithi
Registered User
Cavity Wall Insulation*

Does anyone know of a company in Dublin that will do Cavity wall insulation on an existing house. The goo that pumps in and solidifies would be the ideal choice.
I have tried numerous insulation companies in the phone book and they are not interested in existing cavity walls.
I called A & A Insulations about 4 times in the last 3 weeks and i keep getting the 'we'll get back to you' line so i wont be going with them.
Hope the good people of AAM can furnish me with some good companies for this.
Thanks for the help in advance 


*furiousHarry
Registered User
Re: Cavity Wall Insulation*

Have you tried the Golden Pages ?

[broken link removed]

Just A suggestion - If you're really getting no-where:

A friend of mine contacted the local Council and ask the housing dept who they used. 

Our Local council have hired contractors to fill the local council houses with cavity Insulation.

*Daithi
Registered User
Tried again*

Tried the golden pages but none of those under insulation do existing cavity walls.
Tried A & A Insulation again and complained that they never called me when they said they would and asked was there any point in keeping calling them. I more or less got told to **** off, so i wont be using them.
Found another company since though.
If anyone else is interested try www.warmfill.com for a few companies.


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## geegee (21 Feb 2005)

Hi,

I know several people who have had new houses built and their builders have refused to fit insulation between the ground and first floors, mine included. Does anyone know why this is the case?  Has anyone been able to get it done and if so with what results for noise and heat insulation?


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## heinbloed1 (18 Mar 2005)

*Insulation between ground floor and first floor*

Sorry geegee,I didn't see your post earlier,thanks suellen for bringing it up again.
The reason why builders safe on insulation is money,nothing else.Any insulation between floors has a sound breaking effect.The heavier the material the better it's soundproofing quality .But putting in a heavy material between the beams means also increasing the weight and that demands a different static calculation-stronger beams for example,different method of holding the beams in place. For temperature insulation it is of course better to have a rooms sealing insulated.In multi story houses it is actually a legally binding rule to insulate between floors.A certain soundproofing has to be met as well as a certain temperature insulation.In the single family home the occupiers argue with each other about the noise("Son,turn that music down!..."),but in an apartment block they would want their money back from the seller....


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## babydays (13 Jan 2006)

*Re: >>Insulation*

Wow, Heinblod, what an amazing amount of advice contained there. I'll have to print it out and read it slowly to get it's full value!

A quick question (also to paddyirishman) how do you close a fireplace safely? Is it just a matter of putting a piece of wood over the fireplace to block it off? or is there any risk of problems starting off in the chimney?

What about the fire damper? What is it? Where do you get it? How is it installed and how much do they cost generally?


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## Sherman (13 Jan 2006)

*Re: >>Insulation*

I fitted a two-inch thick piece of rigid polystyrene up into the chimney, with a 2-inch diameter hole cut in the centre of it to prevent condensation building up in the chimney flue and leading to damp problems.

Has cut down significantly on the chill in the room.

Make sure you leave a hole in whatever you use to block up the chimney - blocking it completely is a bad idea from a damp, as well as a ventilation, point of view. Oh, and remember to remove it if you want to light a fire some time!


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## z102 (13 Jan 2006)

*Re: >>Insulation*

A simple, straightforward and cheap method is to use a piece of corrugated cardboard (for example from a apple or banana box) and fix it to the outside of the open fire with some brown cheap packaging sticky tape. That would stop the drought and the ash and dust falling into the room. It would last for a season , rain and snow coming down the chimney will deterioate it and then it needs replacement. If you need the fire place no more because of central heating then consider to close the chimney at the top for good, or even demolish  the entire structure to gain more space and a smaller heating bill and a cleaner house.


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## GD1 (24 Oct 2006)

We're currently building a new house and have started to insulate the cavity walls with kingspan. We are also considering putting insulated plasterboard on the inside of the external walls but are not sure if this is necessary. Basically, we've been told by a friend that we should do one or the other but not both.. Any advice appreciated!


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## Carpenter (24 Oct 2006)

You should ask Kingspan to do an interstitial condensation risk analysis based on your proposed construction detail.  They will be able to tell you what kind of u-value such a detail could achieve and with this information you can decide whether the drylining is worth it.


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## brianmcskane (10 Mar 2007)

*Re: Insulation - fireplace*

Hi, regarding fireplaces and the use of a damper... is this the best solution for new house builds? Is the damper installed late in the build whenever the fireplace is being installed?

I'm not too bothered about an open fire but would like to have the option I suppose. Or would you recommend no chimney whatsoever if I'm happy enough with the central heating system (no open fire ever!). Thanks.


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## lfcjfc (14 Aug 2007)

*Re: Insulation*



Heinbloed said:


> Hi Declan !
> As “O”and “Ajapale” said already the cheapest way, meaning the method with the fastest payback time, is to insulate and draft-proof the building. If the window frames are in good technical condition i.e not rotten than replace the broken panes with the best double glazing that you can find. Usually it is the metallcoated glass trading under the brand name VISTATHERME but there might be other manufacturers as well. When you have found a manufacturer ask him to fill these double panes with noble gas, usually ARGON. It costs a little extra but it is worth it (pay back might take an extra 3-5 years). Once you are at the windows check with your supplier if it is worth exchanging the draft proofing strips. The hollow ones are certainly better than the folded-strip ones, the same as on the door of your fridge. I assume you have timber windows since you spoke about damaged ones. Exchanging the strips on them is really a DIY job, pull out the old ones and push back the new ones.
> The trouble with timber windows is that they naturally warp a bit with changing moisture content, so don't set the new panes flush with the frames,give them a little leeway that you can fill with clear silicone (the stuff for outside - weather resistant) before you put in the pane whilst the the silicone is still soft .
> Check with your supplier if it is worth doing the other windows as well , at least the ones in the rooms that are usually heated and/or are at the coldest part of the house , usually the north side.
> ...


 

Heinbloed,

This is an excellent summary. Given though that its a couple of years old, would you change any of recommendations? If you were building a house now, how would insulate walls, floors, attic using what's available today?


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