Remote (SIM) control of central heating

It's over 18 months since I started the thread, and I refuse to go another winter without being able to remote control my central heating.

I want something simple to install and operate, no fancy wiring, must be controllable by GSM, not internet, and have no exorbitant ongoing running costs. I have a heating system with its own fairly sophisticated programming facilities to control zones and temperatures, which I can preset. So all I need is something to switch on the main switch. Must be cheaper than "Climote" (€300 + €40/year)

Here's what I'm thinking:

  • A Tesco PAYG SIM card, stick on a few quid credit which never expires. (Anyone have any other info/confirmation about whether Tesco call credit expires, or SIM gets deactiviated after prolonged inactivity?)
  • GSM Timer/Switch, STG£85 from http://www.amazon.co.uk/GSM-TIMER-SWITCH-CONTROLLER-POWERED/dp/B00B9ARK12/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1409791242&sr=8-10&keywords=gsm+controller (Amazon), or STG£95 from the with 2yr warranty.
  • Looks straightforward from the manual. I'm not well up on electrics but I presume an electrician will be able to figure out the wiring diagram on the last page of the manual and connect inline with the fused spur to my heating system. I've contacted an electrician to see if he'll do the job.
I reckon this could be bought and installed for < €200 and running costs of < €5/yr for SIM.

Anyone have any thoughts?
 
Hi Dub Nerd. I've had one Tesco number expire after a year, but I think there was zero credit in it.
 
Thanks RIS. I've discovered the device I'm looking at has a six-week "SIM active" function ... if you don't use it, it will send a text message every six weeks to avoid operator deactivation. Might up the running costs from €1 to €2 per year. :)

However, an additional hiccup is the manual says it needs a "2G SIM" ... I didn't realise SIMs changed between 2G and 3G? Have asked the manufacturer for advice.
 
Thanks RIS. I've discovered the device I'm looking at has a six-week "SIM active" function ... if you don't use it, it will send a text message every six weeks to avoid operator deactivation. Might up the running costs from €1 to €2 per year. :)

However, an additional hiccup is the manual says it needs a "2G SIM" ... I didn't realise SIMs changed between 2G and 3G? Have asked the manufacturer for advice.


Tesco Mobile credit does expire, after 24 months AFAIK.

Also, AFAIK, any sim that works with 3G will also work with 2G, EDGE, etc........
 
Tesco Mobile credit does expire, after 24 months AFAIK.

Also, AFAIK, any sim that works with 3G will also work with 2G, EDGE, etc........

Ta SparkRite, that's good news. I think I can live with €5 every two years. :)

And the manufacturer got back to me to say there's a 99% chance any SIM will work. (He didn't say what the 1% chance is, but I'll take the risk).

Just waiting for the electrician to reply now.

EDIT: Found this in Tesco Mobile general Ts & Cs ... no mention of credit expiring except in case of non-use for six months:


  • 8. Account Validity and Mobile Number Reclaim

  • (a) Your Tesco Mobile phone number and SIM Card is valid and will remain active for as long as you are using your Mobile Phone regularly.
  • (b) If you do not make a Credit Top Up to your Account, or use your SIM Card for 6 months, your Account and any outstanding Credit on your Account will be suspended. If this happens you may reactivate your Account by calling Customer Care. We will reactivate your Account, and any previously unused credit you had on your Account will be available to you again.
  • (c) After your Account has been suspended, you have a further 6 months during which you can have it reactivated by calling Customer Care. If you do not ask us to reactivate your Account we will assume that you no longer need it (as you will not have used it for 12 months) and it will be fully deactivated. This means your SIM Card will no longer work, you will lose any unused Credit you may have had, and your Mobile Phone number can be claimed back by Tesco Mobile and given to another customer.
 
Ta SparkRite, that's good news. I think I can live with €5 every two years. :)

And the manufacturer got back to me to say there's a 99% chance any SIM will work. (He didn't say what the 1% chance is, but I'll take the risk).

Just waiting for the electrician to reply now.

EDIT: Found this in Tesco Mobile general Ts & Cs ... no mention of credit expiring except in case of non-use for six months:


  • 8. Account Validity and Mobile Number Reclaim

  • (a) Your Tesco Mobile phone number and SIM Card is valid and will remain active for as long as you are using your Mobile Phone regularly.
  • (b) If you do not make a Credit Top Up to your Account, or use your SIM Card for 6 months, your Account and any outstanding Credit on your Account will be suspended. If this happens you may reactivate your Account by calling Customer Care. We will reactivate your Account, and any previously unused credit you had on your Account will be available to you again.
  • (c) After your Account has been suspended, you have a further 6 months during which you can have it reactivated by calling Customer Care. If you do not ask us to reactivate your Account we will assume that you no longer need it (as you will not have used it for 12 months) and it will be fully deactivated. This means your SIM Card will no longer work, you will lose any unused Credit you may have had, and your Mobile Phone number can be claimed back by Tesco Mobile and given to another customer.

Very pertinent info here dub_nerd, from a Tesco Mobile Rep.

http://www.boards.ie/ttfthread/2057272398
 
Very pertinent info here dub_nerd, from a Tesco Mobile Rep.

http://www.boards.ie/ttfthread/2057272398

Thanks a mil' SparkRite. So a text is enough to keep the SIM alive, and my device will send them every six weeks. After that, it's seems to be just a matter of topping up by a fiver every two years. That 24 month period doesn't appear in their terms and conditions, but the rep seemed fairly adamant about it, so I'll treat it as fact.

Just noticed your suggestive username and some other posts of yours ... are you a sparks? If so, would you like to comment on the very rough wiring diagram given in that GSM Switch's manual for a boiler setup? ...

ff2brYI.png


Any reason why they show the switch wired across the thermostat? Implies that you want the heating on regardless of thermostat settings. I basically just want the heating to come on at whatever settings I've left it at. I already have complicated programmable zones etc. Would I be able to just literally power the device from the fused spur (the red and blue lines) and also connect the live from the fused spur across the switch (green lines) for a simple switch on/off.

The rest of my electrics are hidden away in a wall recess along with the underfloor heating manifold, and include wiring from individual room thermostats, wiring to zone actuator heads on the manifold, a controller box between all these wires, and a pump module which controls activation of the pump whenever any individual zone thermostat is calling for heat. I'd prefer not to have to insert the GSM switch in the midst of all this if it's possible ... took years to get the darn thing working properly in the first place. It would probably look something like this if it didn't look like forty plates of spaghetti flung in a bin:

13696underfloor%20heating%20elec.jpg
 
Viewing this on my phone at the mo, so no lengthy answers.

Going by that diagram, the remote switch is no more than a thermostat override and in my reckoning should be connected across terminals 2 and 4 in the timer to achieve what you want.

In other words, a remote timer override / shunt.

Nice heating setup, BTW.
 
Viewing this on my phone at the mo, so no lengthy answers.

Going by that diagram, the remote switch is no more than a thermostat override and in my reckoning should be connected across terminals 2 and 4 in the timer to achieve what you want.

In other words, a remote timer override / shunt.

Nice heating setup, BTW.

So this device only overrides the stat and not the timer? The timer would have to be left on constant?
 
The device is no more than a remote controllable switch. I guess whether it can override the timer depends on features of the timer, rather than the device. In my case, simply switching on the power to the heating system would be completely adequate for my needs. I'd prefer not to have to connect it to a thermostat or a timer. With UFH you wouldn't normally be timing it on and off.
 
The device is no more than a remote controllable switch. I guess whether it can override the timer depends on features of the timer, rather than the device. In my case, simply switching on the power to the heating system would be completely adequate for my needs. I'd prefer not to have to connect it to a thermostat or a timer. With UFH you wouldn't normally be timing it on and off.


Assuming that your initial control of your heating system is as per the diagram, then, by far, the simplest method of implementing what you want is to wire your remote switch in parallel with the timer switch that controls your heating.

In the diagram the timer is simply a timed switch wired in series with a stat and AFAIK you want remote control of switching your heat on/off thus overriding your preprogrammed timer settings and therefore, to that end, it is simple to just parallel your remote controlled switch with your timer.

However, if on the other hand you wish to be able to turn your heat off, independent of your timer settings (say you went on holidays and forgot to turn off the heat) then you would wire the R/C switch in series with the timer control switched circuit. This would only allow you turn the heat OFF as when the R/C switch is in the ON position heating would be dependant on the timer settings as per norm.

Hope this makes some sense to you, either way its a piece of p..s. :)
 
Assuming that your initial control of your heating system is as per the diagram, then, by far, the simplest method of implementing what you want is to wire your remote switch in parallel with the timer switch that controls your heating.

In the diagram the timer is simply a timed switch wired in series with a stat and AFAIK you want remote control of switching your heat on/off thus overriding your preprogrammed timer settings and therefore, to that end, it is simple to just parallel your remote controlled switch with your timer.

However, if on the other hand you wish to be able to turn your heat off, independent of your timer settings (say you went on holidays and forgot to turn off the heat) then you would wire the R/C switch in series with the timer control switched circuit. This would only allow you turn the heat OFF as when the R/C switch is in the ON position heating would be dependant on the timer settings as per norm.

Hope this makes some sense to you, either way its a piece of p..s. :)

Thanks a mil' for that. But no, unfortunately my initial system looks nothing like the diagram. I don't have the normal looking timer setup. My timing is via a pair of hi-tech-looking detachable programmable digital clocks/controllers connected to room stats (one for upstairs, one for down. In fact, the fused spur is the only common point between the upstairs and downstairs which are otherwise two completely independent systems with their own wiring, stats, manifold etc.). But fortunately I don't want to override any timers or thermostats, just literally switch the whole thing on an off. That's pretty much the only thing I do anyway -- apart from twiddling a room thermostat on the very odd occasion I never have cause to touch anything else. I think that makes it like your second scenario -- just wire the switch in series with the circuit. What I want is as simple as this:

pdjdxIi.png


So I know how the power to the switch gets wired. Can I literally just connect the switch itself in series with the live from the 3A spur as shown?
 
I got a Texton unit at the start of this year. Works great for me, they have their own app which sends text messages to it or you can just send the text message yourself direct, I think you can use it for most functions.

We have it installed in a holiday home and find it excellent. Great to have the heating on a couple of hours before we go down

It cost €154 including tesco sim and delivery. No other costs going forward except top ups for the sim. My electrician wired it in no problem and he had never seen one before

I have no involvement with this company except a happy customer
 
Thanks a mil' for that. But no, unfortunately my initial system looks nothing like the diagram. I don't have the normal looking timer setup. My timing is via a pair of hi-tech-looking detachable programmable digital clocks/controllers connected to room stats (one for upstairs, one for down. In fact, the fused spur is the only common point between the upstairs and downstairs which are otherwise two completely independent systems with their own wiring, stats, manifold etc.). But fortunately I don't want to override any timers or thermostats, just literally switch the whole thing on an off. That's pretty much the only thing I do anyway -- apart from twiddling a room thermostat on the very odd occasion I never have cause to touch anything else. I think that makes it like your second scenario -- just wire the switch in series with the circuit. What I want is as simple as this:

pdjdxIi.png


So I know how the power to the switch gets wired. Can I literally just connect the switch itself in series with the live from the 3A spur as shown?

If you want, as you say, ON/OFF R/C of the heating (regardless of timer/s settings) then it stands to reason that you MUST override the timer/s.
This is done on many occasions in control circuits and is extremely common. Even if you have multiple timers and just one R/C switch then the use of a simple relay/contactor can be employed to override all timers.

One problem with your revised wiring diagram is that when OFF the power to the timer is also cut, therefore it may adversely affect the timer programs. Also, as I said before, this will only allow you to turn the heating OFF and not ON unless the timer is also set to ON.

I really do not see why you are so wary, (afraid :) ?) to wire it in parallel with the timer switches, thus allowing you to remotely turn ON/OFF the heat at will (as long as the timer/s is set to off). This is the easiest and closest as far as I can see, to what you are trying to achieve.

If you need full R/C, ie. ON/OFF regardless of timer setting then a two way (changeover) relay/contactor must be used, as your R/C switch is just a single way, also your timer/s must also be capable of two way switching.

To put this in "laymans" terms, liken it to upstairs/downstairs landing light, as in, regardless of the state of one switch (timer/s) the other (your R/C switch) can always turn the light (heat) ON/OFF.

Again, quite basic to implement, just a bit more kit and installation time.
 
I got a Texton unit at the start of this year. Works great for me...

Thanks Dinny. I'd probably have gone for TextOn except their website is so bad and didn't give me a good feeling. Have ordered the device I mentioned from the UK instead (which is a fair bit cheaper too).
 
If you want, as you say, ON/OFF R/C of the heating (regardless of timer/s settings) then it stands to reason that you MUST override the timer/s.
This is done on many occasions in control circuits and is extremely common. Even if you have multiple timers and just one R/C switch then the use of a simple relay/contactor can be employed to override all timers.

One problem with your revised wiring diagram is that when OFF the power to the timer is also cut, therefore it may adversely affect the timer programs. Also, as I said before, this will only allow you to turn the heating OFF and not ON unless the timer is also set to ON.

I really do not see why you are so wary, (afraid :) ?) to wire it in parallel with the timer switches, thus allowing you to remotely turn ON/OFF the heat at will (as long as the timer/s is set to off). This is the easiest and closest as far as I can see, to what you are trying to achieve.

If you need full R/C, ie. ON/OFF regardless of timer setting then a two way (changeover) relay/contactor must be used, as your R/C switch is just a single way, also your timer/s must also be capable of two way switching.

To put this in "laymans" terms, liken it to upstairs/downstairs landing light, as in, regardless of the state of one switch (timer/s) the other (your R/C switch) can always turn the light (heat) ON/OFF.

Again, quite basic to implement, just a bit more kit and installation time.

Multiple reasons I don't want to muck with the timers. I don't really use them, so there's no need. They are battery backed up, so they don't suffer from having the power cut for months at a time. The main reason is that the concept of timing with underfloor heating is different -- the timer can't actually switch the system on or off. It can only switch it to "setback mode" which means running at a reduced temperature (usually 2 - 4 degrees lower for nighttime ).

Apart from that, you are expected to leave the thing running all the time (except for long absences which I have a lot of). If the ambient temperature is lower than the setback, the system will come on full blast when you switch it on, regardless of how the timer is set (since it can take 24 hours to reach the set temp). So there just isn't any normal on/off timing concept at all, and definitely no need for any override.

The final reason for my wariness/scariness is that the UFH control cabinet is a mass of completely undocumented wiring which -- due to getting shafted by a combination of builder and supplier -- I have no way of getting service on. Figured out enough of it myself to fix some burned out actuator heads with replacements I managed to source from Germany, but there's no way I'm letting anyone else go mucking with it, given the amount of problems I've had. So even if it were possible or desirable (and it isn't), I really don't want any functionality other than the equivalent of flicking the big red switch :D

On the other hand, thanks for the info which is good to know regardless. :) But going back to my question -- is wiring the switch in series with the live from the fused spur the way to go for what I want?
 
Multiple reasons I don't want to muck with the timers. I don't really use them, so there's no need. They are battery backed up, so they don't suffer from having the power cut for months at a time. The main reason is that the concept of timing with underfloor heating is different -- the timer can't actually switch the system on or off. It can only switch it to "setback mode" which means running at a reduced temperature (usually 2 - 4 degrees lower for nighttime ).

Apart from that, you are expected to leave the thing running all the time (except for long absences which I have a lot of). If the ambient temperature is lower than the setback, the system will come on full blast when you switch it on, regardless of how the timer is set (since it can take 24 hours to reach the set temp). So there just isn't any normal on/off timing concept at all, and definitely no need for any override.

The final reason for my wariness/scariness is that the UFH control cabinet is a mass of completely undocumented wiring which -- due to getting shafted by a combination of builder and supplier -- I have no way of getting service on. Figured out enough of it myself to fix some burned out actuator heads with replacements I managed to source from Germany, but there's no way I'm letting anyone else go mucking with it, given the amount of problems I've had. So even if it were possible or desirable (and it isn't), I really don't want any functionality other than the equivalent of flicking the big red switch :D

On the other hand, thanks for the info which is good to know regardless. :) But going back to my question -- is wiring the switch in series with the live from the fused spur the way to go for what I want?

Ok, I see now what you are at and more importantly your reluctance to mess with the set-up, so really the first wiring diagram you posted had no reflection whatsoever for your set-up.

If the fused spur is the feed for the complete heating control circuit ie. as you say, "the big red (Frankenstein, my word) switch", then wiring the R/C switch in series with the live (assuming the switch can handle the rated current) WILL give you a "remote big red switch". :D
 
Thanks again. Sorry for any confusion with the first diagram -- that was a direct copy and paste from the manual for the GSM switch. (I know it looks amateurish enough that I could've done it myself ... they don't seem too hot on documentation :D ). Btw, although I like to understand what's going on, and could do the job myself at a pinch, I will be paying an electrician to do it. Better safe than sorry.

Have ordered the switch from UK and a Tesco mobile SIM -- both, apparently, shipping already. Will let you know how I get on.
 
Ta. Sorry for any confusion with the first diagram -- that was a direct copy and paste from the manual for the GSM switch. (I know it looks amateurish enough that I could've done it myself ... they don't seem too hot on documentation :D ).

Have ordered the switch from UK and a Tesco mobile SIM -- both, apparently, shipping already. Will let you know how I get on.


Grand, do let us know.
 
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