Gas boiler query....

Thanks gary71 - maybe I'm reading thing's wrong but does the pump operate differently say if i set the clock timer to come on at say 10am and go off at 12pm as opposed to me physically switching it on at 10am and then switching off at 12pm?
 
Without a permanent live your clock/programmer becomes a timed main isolation switch , so if it's off the boiler has no power at all for frost protection or any overrun to clear/protect from any heat spikes after the boiler been on a little while, the pump over run kicks in when the boiler has reached temperature and the gas has gone off, it's needed so the heat in the boiler can be maintained correctly, turning off the power to a boiler leaves any heat setting in the boiler and the temperature can raise to levels the boiler is not designed to reach, the way your boiler is wired would be like getting in your car driving somewhere, then pulling the lead off the battery to stop the engine, the engine fan would not be able to run to cool the engine and the car would overheat, if you leave the clock on and then turn the boiler down/off from the temperature stat you do not interrupt normal boiler operation, now you know as much as me:D, Gary.
 
Apart from getting a permanent live feed to my boiler installed which will cost a few hundred euro - any other measures i could take to protect heat exchanger?
 
Apart from getting a permanent live feed to my boiler installed which will cost a few hundred euro - any other measures i could take to protect heat exchanger?

Getting a permanent live feed should not be that expensive - is there a socket near it ?
 
.....sorry to harp on, but if it's an outhouse, and your boiler is out there, there must be some sort of power - pump ? light ? No ? ....odd, if there isn't.........
 
.....sorry to harp on, but if it's an outhouse, and your boiler is out there, there must be some sort of power - pump ? light ? No ? ....odd, if there isn't.........


- No problem but I just have the one cable going to the boiler. No power sockets and I dont even have a light installed.
 
...oh dear........., tbh, you're going to have to get power in there, somehow. Is the cable currently connecting only a 3-core ? Any chance it's more, and there's some unused cores ? (hoping, really..........)

If you don't have tarmac/paths to dig up, it's not a big deal to run an armoured cable out there. If you do have all that though...........mmm, no power in the garden anywhere, no ? Lights/sockets/gates/fountain/treatment plant ???
 
Yes only 3 core and no other supply in the garden. Surely the heat exchanger is well able to stand the temperatures at two thirds of the setting?
 
quote=theresa1;959217] Surely the heat exchanger is well able to stand the temperatures at two thirds of the setting?[/quote]

Maybe, maybe not, without the correct wiring the boiler cannot function 100% the way it has been designed, there will be a overheat limit switch on the boiler that will protect the boiler to a certain extent from overheating, most boilers i come a cross are wired the same as yours and are left alone (which doesn't make it right)the boilers are only rewired when the over heating becomes a problem, so i wouldn't blow this out of proportion, the way your boiler is wired is wrong and i wouldn't be happy with it in my house, but if you leave the stat down the effects on the boiler is reduced, but as a proper gasman i would have to advise the fault is rectified, Gary.
 
Thanks gary I understand what you are saying - I do intend to get it rectified but to be honest it will probably be after the winter. I presume air flow rate safety device and heating safety value will also operate ok along with the overheating safety? I do understand frost protection wil not.
 
The overheat stat on the boiler is not dependent on electricity, if you had a problem with heat your boiler would be dead/locked out when the clock turns the power back on, so long story short ,if you were getting problems you would know about it as the boiler would be locking out or possibly making noises, Gary.
 
There is one way around it but it may not be ideal. Move your time clock out to your boiler. the feed out becomes a permanent supply, that runs stairght to boiler, fused ofcourse, and a switch live is taken through the timeclock to boiler.
 
Yes idea allright but then in middle of winter having to go outside to put on heat if not using the timer settings wouldnt be nice.
 
no, timeclock would be in house with receiver beside boiler. Sure they could be got, but would be expensive.
 
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