Key Post: Tiling

Hi, I'm about to have a go at tiling my new kitchen floor and downstairs toilet. I've never tiled before and I have a few questions:

1.Cutting tiles:

I will buy a tile cutter. They have all kinds of tile cutters in Atlantic. Cheap manual ones, more expensive manual ones, and electric ones. I think I'll go for an electric one. My question is; do tile cutters cut curves? I'm thinking for around the wash hand basin and toilet. If the tile cutters only cut straight lines, what do I need for cutting around curves?

2. Applying the adhesive and keeping the tiles level with each other:

Do I apply the adhesive with one of those ridged "scraper" tools? Should I apply any adhesive to the tile or do I put it onto the floor only?

What's the best adhesive to use, the glue type or cement type?

How to I make sure I keep the tiles level with each other? Is there any special way of doing it?

tiling

Tiling unlike other floor covering, carpeet, lino etc. is more or less a lifetime job and you'll be looking at it everyday esp. the kitchen floor so I'd advice you to get a professional tiler to do the job..........it will be cheaper in the long run
Horses for courses etc. etc.

go electric

Hi,

I tiled my kitchen floor and elsewhere in our house and like you I never done it before. You will need an electric tile cutter for the job the manual ones are crap and in my case were too small to cut the full lenth of my kitchen tile. I ended up renting a tile cutter from the local tool hire place for the job.
You should buy a proper trowel for spreading the adhesive on the ground, dont bother with the small ones. I actually found one that one of the kitchen guys left behind in our house and I used that. I am sure you can get them in any builders merchant.
For curves you can probably use the electric cutter to cut slits around a curve you have marked out and then just snip the thin bits off with a tile nibbler yoke.
For the adhesive, spread this on the floor and only on the tile if you cant actually run the trowel over that area. Cement based is probably best for your floors if your floor is already cement.


You should have a look on the web for instructions for this. good luck!

tiles

I originally had your point of view Non Tiler but I'm doing this out of necessity. A couple of tilers I phoned for quotes haven't even bothered to return my calls. Others are busy for anything from three to six weeks! I'm feeling like it won't get done if I don't get stuck in and do it myself.

Thanks for the advice kerinsp!

Tile Cutting

Your dead right to tile it yourself. I did my kitchen and bathrooms as well.

Once you get going it is eay enough. We bought a "wet" diamond wheel tile cutter from b&q for about 44. It has been used loads and was best investment ever.

In relation to spacing the tiles you use tile spacers. Surely you must have known this. If you did not know this, then maybe you should get a few frinds over who might know a bit about it.

If not and you continue yourself, make sure you do it properly, as changing it is a nightmare. Are you putting floor levelling compound in the kitchen and bathroom.

remember to apply plenty of adhesive, as if there is not enough, the tiles might come loose.


Once you get going it is easy, but just make sure you know it all. If you have any doubts, ask someone.

Good Luck, I'm sure it will work out ok

..

You should buy yourself a small angle grinder to help with awkward cuts. Personally i use a manual wheel cuter with the angle grinder for the awkward(anything non straight) cuts.

You will need to get a ridged adhesvie spreader...any store will have one. ideally you should try and remove fittings to tile under them rather than around them...

good point

Tile under your cooker if you can and maybe the dishwasher. It makes it a lot easier if you discover a leak (as I did) behind the dishwasher. I have also had to move the cooker out from the wall for something and I could just wheel it out as its on the same level.

Re: 2 Tiling Questions

[broken link removed]

Re: 2 Tiling Questions

If your floor is concrete, get a leveling compound and put it in
If you floor is floorboards, you will probably have to lay plywood on top.

As you are new to the game, you may want a slow setting adhesive, though everybody uses rapid set for the floors.

Angle grinder maybe the cheapest and handiest, as you could use it for other jobs, where a tile cutter is just for tiles.
A nipping type plyers can be used for small nips out if the tiles.

Grouting is the easiest, just decide on the correct colour and ensure that is correct for your area, waterproof,does not show up the dirt easily..etc..You will need a flat float for the grouting.
PS. Make sure that your bags of adhesive are not damaged and leaking. If they are ask for them at least half price as they will be no good to the shop.
Depending on the tiles find out if you need a sealer for the tile especially porcelian

Thanks

Thanks everyone for the replies and encouragement! Sueellen, that link is excellent!

Some other posts

decbuck
Registered User
Tiling Side of Bath

Hi, I have just tiled my bathroom and want to now tile the side of the bath.

Do I just need to put some MDF against the side and tile aainst that or will i need somehting like wbp ply?

All suggestions welcome, including different ways of doing it.

Thanks

legend99
Very frequent poster

I built a frame, put ply on it and tiled the ply...HOWEVER!!!! Whatever else you do, make sure that you can remove the entire panel to allow access to under the bath! I.e. ,the screws holding that panel on need to come right throuogh the tile so you can unscrew them. otherwise, if you end up with a plumbing issue under your bath you'll have to bust off the panel to get at it.
And use brass scress or something...anything that won't rust basically!

decbuck
Registered User

Yeah, never thought of that. So ply wood into a frame will do. How did you secure it to the top of the bath? I notice a decent rim unver the top edge. How did you get the ply to be solid in the space?

legend99
Very frequent poster

What i did was build the outline of a frame. Three lengths going up, one each end, one in the middle. Then joined each of these together at the bottom with a plank the length of the frame. At the top i did the same but packed it out on he inside so i could glue it onto the side of the bath for extra supporrt....

decbuck
Registered User

Gotcha.

Thank a million. So does it come easy. Or would it come away with a struggle. In other words can I tile and grout the ply outside the bathroom, then come in and screw it to the frame?

legend99
Very frequent poster

I screwed it onto each up length near the top. What i did was i screwed through the ply at these three points. i then tiled the rest and let it dry. i then unscrewed it, left it in that place, think I put a concrte block or something to hold it from falling just in case. I then carefully figured out where on each of the three missing tiles i would need to put in the screw. Or as best I could. Basiclly I mean if its a 2 inch width plank you have an inch in the middle to aim for. I then tiled these three tiles, let them dry and drilled them afterwards. I then screwed in the three screws and only grouted at this point.
As i recall, i was going to tile the ply outside but it was impractible....you won't get the placement exactly right as your ply might end up being maybe 1 cm short at the end and side..

Bob the Builder
Tiling side of Bath

Just to add my cent's worth...........make sure that the the timber you use in the frame is pressure treated or treat it with cuprinol or similar wood preservative - othe wise it will rot in no time due to a combination of dampness and lack or air. Also keep the ply 10 mm approx up from the floor and at least 5 mm away from the end walls to allow the ply expansion space - if you fit it too tight it may buckle and warp causing the tiles to come flying off !

Your other alternative is of course to fit plastic bath side and end panels available off the shelf in any plumbers suppliers shop.

debcuck
Advice

Thanks for all the advice.

I had one of the side panels but hate it. I tiled the whole bathroom floor to celiing and it looks great, but then you have this lump of plastic

I will use WBP plywood which is basically marine ply. waterproof, well at least won't rot.

I can't see it going totally smootly, but I will figure it out.

Would really make the bathroom. If I'm having trouble I'm sure legend99 will come over and finish it seeing as he did it before!!!

legend99
Very frequent poster

theres an invite...can you come over to my place and tile me bath!!!!
WOW

Bob the Builder
Tiling Bath

If you want the bath side panel to be removable I would advuse you to make it in two sections

As all the fittings, pipe work etc. is at one end of the bath you could leave an access panel there say one third the lenght of the bath....to the nearest tile width
That way the access paned will be much lighter to handle etc. and use brass or stainless steel screws to fix it. You can then grout the joints around this access panel as normal and don't worry it will easily break away if you ever have to remove the panel.

cullenswood
Frequent poster
Grouting tiles

Hi,

I am grouting tiles this evening, and was wondering what equipment will I need and if anyone has any advice/tips on doing it.

legend99
Very frequent poster

you need very little. The grout mix, water and a good clean bucket to mix it in. Better if you have one of those flexi buckets with the wider top...easier for you to get the mix in and out.

You will need a squgee?? to spread the grout with into every line. Make sure you make the mix thick, if its a tiny bit watery it will all start falling off your spreader!!! Err on the side of thickness. Cover the floor surface, even if its not done yet(yoru floor) you don't want to have to be knocking lumps of hard grout off it to make it flat.

You will need a second bucket with a good sponge, you're as well off investing the 3/4 euro to get a specific sponge for grouting, they hold more.

And make sure when you are emptying that bucket you have with the water for the sponge not to chuck it down yoru drain!! The grout will still harden more or less =even under water so could block you up....if you can chuck it in a ditch, or if they are still building around you over your back wall to the building site etc do that, or else drain off the water and dispose of the grout in your bin.

cullenswood
Frequent poster

You will need a squgee?? to spread the grout with into every line

Click to expand...

Pardon my ignorance, but what's a squgee?! I have the buckets and the sponge, and from what I gather I just lump the grout in the gaps and then wash the excess off with the sponge?

legend99
Very frequent poster

[broken link removed]

maybe my spelling/naming is insane but tis the tool for spreading the grout!!!

Tips....
[broken link removed]

cullenswood
Frequent poster

Thanks, you're a legend!!

Jildy
Tiler

My Tiler has just let me down. He was supposed to start yesterday and never turned up. Can anyone recommend a good tiler in the Dublin area. As many responses as possible please as findng one on short notice is going to be difficult.
Thanks.

BlueSpud
Registered User
Re: Tiler

Try Paul Dooley, 085-7240290, I have used him a few times, honest as the day is long, and good. He lives on the North side.

Alex
Drilling through a wall tile

Hi all,
I've been tasked with putting up a mirror over the sink in the bathroom. So Do I just drill away through the wall tile and hang the mirror there? or are there more steps to be taken first?

Thanks

Clubman
Drilling through a wall tile

When drilling through tiles use masking tape to prevent slippage:

www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/knowhow/solutions/article/0,16417,203839,00.html

Make sure that there are no pipes or electrics behind the tiled wall where you are drilling!

Make sure that you drill sufficiently deeply or into the wall itself or underlying battens etc. in order to provide adequate support for whattever you're hanging.

Use a plumb line, spirit level and/or measuring tape to ensure that you get things level and properly spaced.

sueellen
Moderator

[broken link removed]

Maceface
Registered User
Re: Drilling through a wall tile

The other thing you could do is use a drill bit designed for ceramics/glass. This will stop the tile from cracking.

legend99

You need to keep the dril bit lubbed as well......no jokes please!!

Use oil or as you go into the tile make a little vaseline well. It makes it easier to get through the tile.

Medium speed..you're not drilling through solid concrete!

In fact, the worse part is getting through the outside glaze without the drill bit slipping across it and cutting a big scratch.

In addition, if at all possible what you should try and do is make sure you can line up your drill holes through the grout. For example, could you site the mirror so that both screws can go across the line of grout between two tiles?

zag
Administrator

I found that drilling with a tiny bit first makes enough impact on the glaze to allow a larger bit get sufficient purchase.

As above, you need to drill slowly, not fast and certainly not hammer action.

z

nogser
Frequent poster

I use a hand drill for the drilling through the tile and the switch to the electric one. This gives a great control of speed and pressure.

Nogser

Alex
Drilling thru a tile

Thanks for the replies... So I definitely need to get myself a carbide bit?

collieb
Registered User

if u want, or spare the money and pick up a steel nail and hammer and gently use them to place a small nick in the place where you want the hole (basically score the glaze on the tile). ordinary drill bit will fly through the tile once after this....

Before ye all say this will crack the tile, I have done it countless times and not one crack...

Some other posts

Kiddo
Registered User
Tile shops - Dublin area

Hi

Can anyone recommend Tile shops in the Dublin area. We have been to Tubs & Tiles and Tilesavers.

Looking for somewhere with a good selection...

ClubMan
Administrator
Re: Tile shops - Dublin area

Can't remember the name but there's a tile shop on North King Street, Dublin 7 near Smithfield which is having a clearance sale in case there are any bargains or end of line stuff going cheap.

decbuck
Frequent poster
Re: Tile shops - Dublin area

won't get much cheaper than b&q

elkii
Registered User
Re: Tile shops - Dublin area

Nationwide Tiles in Liffey Valley near B&Q are good, as are Allied Ceramic Tiles in Sandyford.

Dowee
Very frequent poster
Re: Tile shops - Dublin area

Windsor Tiles

Trixie
Registered User
Leixlip

There's a little tile shop in Leixlip village with a great selection - and unusual stuff I didn't see in the 2 stores you mentioned. I was shopping with my mother and can't remember the name I'm afraid but the bus stop into town was just outside the door (we had to work our way in through the queue) and it looks a bit like an old ramshackle hardware store . . .

fu
removing wall tiles?

Hi,

I have a sink in my main bathroom to replace, but in doing this I also need to take out and replace 3 wall-tiles that were cut due to the shape of the old sink.

I'm reasonably confident I can remove the tiles by drilling holes in the middle and carefully using a hammer and chisel, but how do I remove the tile adhesive underneath to prepare for new tiles?

Regards,
fu.

DOBBER22
Frequent poster
Re: removing wall tiles?

I removed all my bathroom wall and floor tiles a few months ago and set about removing the tile grout from the wall surface....it was a bloody nightmare and broke my heart, I got about one third of the way through when my friend the tiler had a look (because I asked him too) and he said there was no need to remove all the grout just the loose bits and polybond all wall and floor surfaces and he would tile over the rest, he's starting the job today and I'll let you know how it turns out should be great though as my friend and his family are all tilers and I've seen their work in many houses and its always well finished

heinbloed
tiles

If the new sink is bigger than there is no need to replace the old cut-to-size tiles.If you have to go the way you described than wear goggles,the glazing is dangerous for your eyes when it chips.If it is cement based adhesive than use the chisel,if it is this plastic stuff out of the bucket use a strong spatula/scraper,for a smoother job you can sand it.

DOBBER22
Frequent poster
Re: tiles

Bathroom turned out perfect the tiler had no problem tiling over the old grout very happy with the end result so don't spend all day removing old tile grout just the loose bits.

Good Luck

Baz
Registered User
removing wall tiles

Anyone got any tips on removing wall tiles? I'm trying to remove my kitchen tiles (4 yr old house) without damaging the plasterboard walls too much....

Thanks

legend99
Very frequent poster

do you need to remove them? if you're retiling and you won't lose too much due to their thickness, existing tiles should be sounds enough to tile over...

Baz
Registered User
Re: removing wall tiles

They gotta go I'm afraid...there not flat and tiling over them is not really an option...

legend99
Very frequent poster

In that case I doubt whether theres a way to get them off without damaging underneath. But if you intend to tile over where you are taking off, then damage underneath should not matter that much...

sunnyday
Frequent poster

Get a good hammer and bolster. Check link for descriptions if unsure; DIY Tools

teachdeas
Registered User
Bathroom - one stop shop for plumbing and tiling-suggestions

Hi - want to update my bathroom - I'd like to be able to get all done by one provider.
Any suggestions welcome.

coolaboola
Frequent poster
Re: Bathroom - one stop shop for plumbing and tiling-suggest

I highly recommend Compass Bathrooms on the Lower Kimmage Road.

They did our bathroom a couple of years ago, including ripping out and disposing of our old pink bathroom suite and *two* layers of floor-to-ceiling pink wall tiles, replastering, installing new bath, sink and loo (each from a different range and supplier - I'm fussy and wanted to mix'n'match), tiling wall and floors, custom-building a vanity unit (into which they installed the sink), tongue-and-groove bath panel, wall cabinet and little bookshelf (every good bathroom should have one!) all of which were based on my own design and drawings, all plumbing and installing an electric shower, three spotlights, extractor fan, extra vent (we had had mildew problems previously) and wall-mounted heater.

The total came to c. €5,000 (incl. labour and materials). They were prompt in addressing any snags (and thankfully there weren't any) and were professional in their approach and attitude (none of this 'Oh, I don' know abou' tha' missus, ya can' do tha'' crap). I was and continue to be very pleased with the results.

Can anyone give a ball park figure for how much a tiler charges per sq/m. We are getting approx. 18sq/m done in our bathroom (walls and floor).
Apologies if I missed it somewhere else on the site, but I could not see this info. anywhere.
Thanks,
Darragh

Some other posts

decembersally
Registered User
Cost of tiling per Sq yard or metre?

Could someone give me a rough estimate of how much tilers charge per square yard / metre? (Kildare area)
Thanks

cullenswood
Frequent poster
Re: Cost of tiling per Sq yard or metre?

Around €25 a square yard would be the average charge, though you may be able to get someone cheaper

delgirl
Registered User
Re: Cost of tiling per Sq yard or metre?

I recently had a large job done - approx 64 sq yds - and agreed a lump sum price with the tiler and persuaded him to throw in the grout and adhesive as well. These can be very expensive - they know where to get it cheap / in bulk and will use the best adhesive especially if they're tiling on wooden floors.

Had tiles put on another wooden floor last year and the shop supplied the adhesive - the tiler reluctantly used it and then had to remove about half the tiles a month later as they were moving! Sometimes it's better to let the expert choose the materials best suited to the job.

Re: >>Tiling

Anyone got any updates on tiling costs per yard / metre currently - the only price I can see in the thread is €25 per yard - is that normal. (might be worth stating what part of the country price was relevant to) Tks

Re: >>Tiling

20-25 per square yard is the average if you call someone who does it for a living. I am not someone who does it for a living but I do quite a few tiling nixers for people and I would charge a fixed price or around 15 per square yard.

You will also find that some tilers will give a fixed price for what they would consider an "handy" job, for example a kitchen wall or a bathroom wall etc.....

That would be Dublin area.

Re: Tiling Costs - Update

I have been chasing my daughter's builders for a breakdown of their charges for tiling and carpentry on a refurbishment project at her flat that is nearing completion. The labour only costs for tiling an area of 82 sq m is GBP 16,755.50 + VAT. This works out at almost GBP 205 + VAT per sq m. I asked them to double-check their prices as I thought there may be a decimal point error in the calculations but the builders confirmed the figures saying that a premium price was charged because my daughter wanted the work completed quickly. She paid for the tiling materials separately at approx GBP 40 per sq m. This means that the total cost of tiling per sq m works out to almost GBP 280. Would anyone like me to recommend these builders to them for their own project? I will supply a large box of tissues to each taker - if we have any left over!

PS. The cost of a carpenter on this project is GBP 4,000 per week.

I've seen a few posts about removing tiles with a view to retiling but how about removing kitchen wall tiles with a view to painting the walls instead?
When I remove the wall tiles, is is possible to get the wall in good enough condition to paint over and that when I paint the kitchen, the area that was previously tiled doesn't stand out?

Hi Joe, it's possible, but will involve a bit of work. You will need to remove all traces of the adhesive, and will probably need to re-plaster the area to get a smooth surface.
Leo